CazzaVR
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Everything posted by CazzaVR
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Jake, here ya go ;) clicky
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Keep the KR head if it's still OK ;)
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Both links are the same :shrug: Looks OK. I'm sure you can get one with a flexi. The worst thing about the 4 branch manifolds is the lack of flexi which makes the whole system too rigid, and unless you have uprated engine mounts you do run some risk of cracking the manifold.
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New ones should come with some threadlock on AFAIK. You can get them from Halfords as a 'Brake Fitting Kit' for a couple of quid. Had this happen to me a couple of times- made a clonking noise :mad2:
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:lol: Such a nice job :gag:
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Nice and shiny! They've scrubbed up well 8)
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Sounds familiar! :lol: Reckon you've actually undone it- have you tried pulling the box forwards? Mine did the same- got so far, then just seemed to spin around. Just pull the heater box- may need a bit of a wiggle. Have you undone the 3rd one on the right (behind/below expansion tank)? I also didn't spot that for a while... HTH!
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Reckon it must be race spec, mate. I've got fast road front and rear, and you can barely notice the vibration.
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Yep :)
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Yeh, it's all about those arms- especially the one on the right. Get a torch and shine it in through the gap at the top as you fit the shelf. You can then see exactly where the arm goes. Make sure the back bit of the shelf slides into the black plastic 'holder'. This is just pushed onto a small metal mount just to the right of the pedals. Drop _Andy_ a pm re: clips ;)
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Only start to worry if it goes much above 114 ish oil. Mine used to run at between 90 and 100. Then, after water pump change + new stat, it's usually just over 100. Never goes over 108, even on a thrash :) My water is usually at a constant 90.
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Gave it a service. Oil, filter, plugs and DubPower HT leads. What should've taken an hour or two ended up taking 4! :( The oil filter was on extremely tight- had to whack a screwdriver through it in the end, and use it as a handle to twist the filter around. Ended up with a puddle of oil on the drive, so had the pressure washer out in the dark :lol: :roll: one of those days!
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Well done, mate! Well, mine's still flashing, even after fitting the relay :(
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Well done! :clap:
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As above, or jack up under the front axle. DON'T jack up under the wishbones!
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Well done, Paul 8)
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Have got in touch with Richard re: injector lines/braided hoses, and heard back today- Hi Andy, I'm afraid i can't make the injector hoses, as they are too small for our swaging machine to crimp...sorry about that, many thanks, Richard :( Nevermind!
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Mine was falling apart, so took it off. Absolute nightmare job! It takes hours. I used a really sturdy ice scraper, Disolv-It spray (apparently identical to the orange stuff VW use, only cheaper and available in supermarkets), white spirit and plenty of rags. Make sure you cover the engine bay with a sheet first, cos it get's everywhere and ends up like really sticky bogies :lol: I would have bought new stuff, but as above, there aren't any left for older cars :(
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I've got a similar prob with mine. Reckon it's the little white plastic part with the 3 little springs that doesn't work properly anymore. There's a bit sticking out on the back of the steering wheel that flicks it off when enough lock has been reached.
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Helpful as ever, Chris! :lol: You're gonna end up spending a lot on the rebuild. I would only do that if you defo intend to keep it for another 2-3 years, otherwise not worth it. If you intend to change the car before then, just get a VR... seriously!
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Go for NGK PFR6Q ;) That's what I use on my AUQ 1.8T.
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should the AUX water pump run when ignition is on ?
CazzaVR replied to Mawrick's topic in Engine Bay
Yep, it's meant to :) -
:oops: :lol: Blue Lady :camp:
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:clap: Well done, Christine!
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As above- DubPower leads are an absolute bargain- £25 for the G60! Use OE ends and are recommended by DG Autotech. Have just bought a set for my 16v and the quality is superb. Otherwise, the Beru ones from www.vwspares.com are identical to the VW Beru ones and they're cheaper.