g0ldf1ng3r

Im not sure on the other wire part - when i have changed blower motors in the past i just swapped the thermal jobbie over to the new one as for removing the motor itself - remove the passenger lower shelf, then the motor turns anti clockwise IIRC & drops down & out of the housing. there is small clip which you need to release as you turn it. from memory the clip is at the back on the right hand side should be a 5 minute job & replacement blowers are about £40 from ebay also, from memory the thermal fuse replacement is only needed if blower only works on 3 or 4 if it is not working at all then likely it is the blower

yummy!!! nice setup that :D out of interest what is the minimum wheel spec they can fit under? GLWS

thanks for the offer cressa, much appreciated i got the new rad sender fitted yesterday afternoon & when reconnected i now do not have fans when i turn the ignition on i did the coolant top up procedure to rid any air locks but managed to not loose much coolant during the sender swap thermostat worked as it should but when i let the engine run until water temp got to where i thought fans should kick in but no fans - odd! water temp got to not far off 110 & i shut off as a just in case - fans came on for over run as you would expect thus im now not sure if it is a dodgy sender temp didnt get to the point you would expect fans to kick in on way to work this morning so going to have to check & test over coming few days will also check i reconnected the yellow switch ok in the stat area

this place is always my first port of call & i find the help on here is essential i am bad for forgetting to put regular updates on my build thread but am often on here most days & try to give back to the community by answering questions others may have & sharing built up knowledge though i do chip in on things on FB i dont really like putting too much info & pics on there as a just in case at least on here you know the majority of those reading your build stuff are fellow owners or enthusiasts & as such less likely to track your lovely motor down for themselves

winner, thanks rob :)

tidy - wiki to the rescue - 4.5 litres according to the oil change jobbie :)

spoke to Heritage - temp sender does come with the gasket o ring, phew lol

on the point of servicing - anyone know how much oil the 1.8 16v takes for an oil change? hopefully not just over 5 litres like the VR lol

tidy thanks veedubbed i can get a new cooler for £23 so might invest in that whilst im there. also may as well do a service as it needs on & im likley to need to drain the oil out anyway

nice purchase, nugget G60's are very rare now as others have said put an engine swap out of your mind on this one, change it to a VR if the calling is too much (which i can appreciate as i love the way my VR sounds & delivers the power lol) FYI, in case you have to change your steering rack, make sure you get the correct one as there are 2 different spline versions which are determined on a VIN number split. i got the wrong one for my valver to begin with & had to change it good luck & lets see some pics :)

Hello again all this time im asking for help on my valver, 1990 1.8 16v i think ive located my oil leak - seems to be coming out of the top of the oil cooler, between the cast part & the metal cooler ive got an O ring on order, the one that sits between the 2 bits mentioned above ive looked at what i think is a schematic of the cooler but thought id ask if anyone knows how they come off? it looks like i remove the oil filter & then there is a nut that holds the cooler on via a central shaft i guess i undo that, unclip that feed & return hoses & then slide it down any input would be appreciated thanks

thanks m8 got my hands full with rado's at present - the valver sprung an oil leak on sunday, jacked it up yesterday & it seems to be coming out the top of the oil cooler (between the cast part that attaches to the block & the metal cooler) so going to try changing the O ring on that first queue new post asking how to take the cooler apart lol

thanks to all for taking the time to reply i have a new rad temp sender on its way from heritage hope it has the O ring with it though as i didnt order one

more testing with all 3 temp sensors unplugged the fans still come on with those 3 connected, if i unplug the rad sender the fans do not come on re-reading Kev's post - "Try disconnecting the senders with the fan running and see which one stops them. Radiator sender, then Yellow temp sender. If they're still going with those disconnected, it will be a faulty fan controller box." which is pointing me to the rad temp sender as if it was the controller the fans would still come on with the rad sender disconnected, which they do not sanity check pls lol ?/?

ok ive done some testing unplugged the black temp sensor & fans still on as soon as ignition is turned on unplugged fan controller & no fans with ignition unplugged temp sender in rad, no fans, plug back in & fans on so, my question is how do i determine if it is the fan controller or the temp sender in the rad? anyone have any ideas? i think i read a post from Kev saying that if the black sensor is unplugged & fans still come on with ignition then it is the fan controller - ? thanks

thanks i did follow the coolant top up procedure after i replaced the radiator elbow a few weeks ago but will add it to the list to check

anyone? leaving work soon...

also found this from Kev "Speed 3 is controlled by the black sender. As Hombre said, that and it's yellow partner are in the thermostat housing, which is on the engine block behind the fan motor. A plastic shroud covers them, which you need to pull off." which is where i am at hopefully as the fans sound super loud will try black sensor first

looking throught the VR6 cooling guide i can see this: "These are approximate as it depends on the age of the senders and how crusty they are. VAG-specified values and part numbers are listed further down. Stage 1 Controlled by the temp sender in the rad, directly to the fans Switch On: 92-97 C (198-207 F) Switch Off: 84-91 C (183-196 F) Stage 2 Controlled by the temp sender in the rad, combined with info from the yellow temp sender via the fan controller Switch On: 99-105 C (210-221 F) Switch Off: 91-98 C (196-208 F) Stage 3 Controlled by the black coolant temp sender, via the fan controller Not listed in the guide above, but it kicks in at around 110-115 C. For non-AC cars, stage 3 should never come on under normal conditions, if it does, you have a problem. Temp senders The coolant warning light is actually a level sensor (those 2 metal spikes in the header tank are what the plug is for and measure yes/no on coolant level). There is no over-temp warning other than the gauge going up/big cloud of steam coming out of the engine bay The main fan control temp sender is screwed into the radiator. This is a 3-pin brass jobber and has 2 different pin layouts depending on if you have early/late VR. It looks like early ones are all 3 pins in a row, late ones are 3 pins in a triangle shape." which is implying to me that it was the main fan control temp sender i disconnected i am thinking to try disconnecting that again, if fans do not come on but then do when i reconnect it i should replace that can anyone give me a sanity check on that pls lol

Hi all Am hoping someone can assist me with my VR for some reason my fans have decided to play up - as soon as i start the car they kick in on full speed does anyone know which of the 3 sensors works the stage 3 fans? it also happened a couple of weeks ago but i disconnected the sensor nearest the top of the rad & in the radiator, the one just under where the battery is, & when i started it up the fans did not kick in i reconnected that sensor & tried it again & fans didnt come on again i am thinking that might be the sensor at fault but am not sure - can anyone confirm & give a part number if possible pls? im off to the motor factors this afternoon having booked a half day thanks

ahhh haaaa that's the puppy MikeVR6!!! Wossner 3 litres, as soon as i read your post it clanged lol

i know i have a brand in my brain somewhere but cant bloody locate it lol try dropping Kev Bacon a PM m8, i am pretty sure he will know lots that you want to understand & likely more ;) AFIK they would normally looked at as an option if you currently have piston slap - as they would be to uprate slightly to a true 3 litre & in combination with a block re-bore & re-hone to remove any ovaling & cater for the oversized piston compared to OE

pleasure m8 winner winner chicken dinner glad you got it sorted :)

yup i can it is the under half of the steering wheel cowling - covering the ignition & steering column etc it doesnt look like a corrado one though - as they have a central screw hole & then another one on each side

there are a few ways - i tend to add photos as an attachment to the post if you click 'go advanced' you can then scroll down to see a 'manage attachments' button - hit that & then 'chosen file', navigate to where your pics are stored, select the one you want & then click upload you can do that multiple times to add as many pics as you want IIRC there is a file size limit on what can be uploaded others use tapatalk app to do it or have a pic hosting site & then put the links in your post photobucket seems a no-no now due to them charging & lots of people on here have had their images removed from their build threads due to such hope that helps