h100vw

steam clean. You could then heatshrink any that look pants. Gavin

In my experience 5cm short isn't a problem. Any more than that is though. Gavin

The chip is not the issue IMO. They don't care which G60 motor they run. It sounds to me, big lag/bogging/takes off at 4500, like the boost sensing pipe to the ECU is too short or has a split in it. Check that carefully before you waste time swapping chips. Gavin

No worries. How many miles have you done since the oil change? 16Vs are 'allowed' to use about a litre per 1000 miles. That would be from the top mark on the stick to the bottom. How many miles on your motor?

Knock your caps lock off. What engine?

Dude, that 50 is well spent and I have closed the account and moved to outer mongolia anyway. You'd have 2 hopes of getting it back and as you know, Bob is dead. :lol: Gavin

Have you got an Air/Fuel ratio meter fitted? They can tell if you are running lean when on boost. C&R maintain they got 200+hp out of a G60 with a head n cam and unchipped ECU. Chances are it'll be fine. Remapping gets the maximum out a particular setup. If you are after every bit of power it'd be essential , with additional work planned I'd hang on til the end of the month and not hoof it everywhere. Get an A/F gauge anyway. http://www.duostyling.com Gavin

CORRECTION Adjust whilst the BTS is disconnected or nothing will change... reconnect BTS Gavin :lol:

My extensive research reveals that the pipes on the passat and 16V are the sameish. Reservoir to pump pipe could be the same although the part numbers differ. Passat 357 422 881, 16V 535 422 881 The return to reservoir could be the same. Passat 358 422 891A 16V 192 422 891A The pump to rack pipe has the same number 192 422 893A In my experience of VW part numbers, the first 2 digits, 19, 35 or 53 refer to the chassis. 19 being MK2, 35 being Passat and 53 the Corrado. The rest of the number is the part itself. Harry, looks like they won't help you out I am afraid. awigman if you want any of the pipes PM me. Gavin

1) Precision finished joints and perfectly positioned brackets, for easy mounting and a flawless fit. 2) Heavy duty, stainless steel inlet tube, 1,5 mm thick. 3) Long lasting sound absorbing materials (Rock wool, with stainless steel wool wrap around silencer cores). 4) Free-flow silencer design, smooth-gas flow y-shape inner tube. 5) Aluminum plated steel silencer box, 1,5 mm thick. 6) Stainless steel, 1,2 to 1,5 mm thick inner perforated tubes. 7) Stainless steel, 1,0 mm thick, chrome plated tail pipes, with inward rolled edge, chosen from 19 different styles of design and shape, suited to each car model. 8 ) Stainless steel silencer endcaps. I couldn't help myself. I had to check. :D The silencers appear to be stainless and mild steel. Anyway having owned one for a long time they do last, which was the point I was going for. Cheers Gavin

http://www.supersprint.com/homeuk.htm I rate Supresprint highly. Your choice of noise, just fit more pipes and less silencers. I had a single box on my mk1 and felt it was pretty pleasant. I used to do 15K a year in it. The boxes are stainless with mildsteel pipes. Still last for years. Gavin

We have them too but dont resort to suspension like that :lol: Looks like a VW Hummer hybrid

Its captive

NG red=fast is in the states. Its nice to see old history though. Check closely in the boot for signs of rear end damage. I would think rust is not a big thing in cal-i-forn-i-a. The enigines last well with regular maintenance. Cam chains and tensioners need attention around 100k so listen for noise in that dept. It looks pretty good in the pictures. Not sure about the offroad stance. A trip to New Dimensions on the way home is advised :mrgreen: Probably need shocks too with that mileage. With the exchange rate that one is similar money to one in the UK. Gavin Just looked at the vehicle report. Thats pretty comprehensive for free. It would cost you £40 in the uk and you get hardly anything for that. No previous test reports or anything. If we had a similar system I wouldn't have 160K MK3 thats shows 85K.......

Most of the Passat ones seem to match with the 16V. The G60 appears to be a bit different. The only one that seems to be the same is the pump to rack pipe. Harry do you have ETKA? Yes or No being the answers to use. :mrgreen: I'll sell any of the pipes for a tenner and postage. Gavin

Harry, I'll check with our mate ETKA. :D What year is yours?

Can you get the part number? I am breaking a Passat and the pipe may be the same. It'll certainly be less than that. Gavin

Motor factors. You can get Waxoyl in spray cans. Pretty convenient. Gavin

http://www.parcel2go.com

A weak mixture burns slowly and can still be burning after the exhaust valves open. Checking the mixture at tickover doesn't really tell the whole story. It is very possible that the mixture is incorrect at high revs, only a trip to the rollers would tell you for sure. Also not having a cat will make it much more likely to happen. My/Darrens Golf with only 2 silencers used to flame a treat. More than a few people commented about it on trackdays. gavin

The MK3 16V motor is an ABF which has digifant management. The Corrado and Passat have the 9A which is more a big bore KR. For the engine work the MK2 manual is the one to get. The Passat manuals don't have anything useful really. Gavin

The lilac/purple wire is the signal to the ECU. There is an earth and an ign 12V. With the aid of a Bentley or even a passat manual you can work out the pin positions of each, in the plug. Gavin

Pick the ones most like your car and hope for the best. If you could get the car and 12-1300 quid you'd come off ok I think. As salvage it's not worth that much. Gavin

You can always hammer him with adverts for similar cars from here, in the VW press and the autotrader. Pick stuff with big mileages etc. Best you can expect is to get him to up it a few hundred quid. Ask for 6-700 and accept 2500 for it. Is it worth having back and repairing/breaking? Gavin

Is it making any signs of life at all? A big airleak, like not putting the servo vac pipe on will stop the engine running. They do run for a couple of seconds and die because of the fuel from the cold start injector. You are counting the cylinders from the timing belt end when putting the plug leads on? Try having someone turn it over whilst lifting the flap in the metering head slowly. Maybe the fuel pipes are airlocked? In a similar way try swinging the dissy while cranking it. Gavin