fendervg

As far as I can remember there is an ignition live to the fuel pump relay, but it is switched by a wire from the ECU relay that tells it the engine is turning and needs fuel. If you get hold of a wiring diagram and look at the small circuit pictures on the sides of the relays it should become clearer. In my experience the VR doesn’t prime and keep the pump running in the same way as the Mk2/16v engines, and it shouldn’t really be audible as the pump is well insulated in the fuel tank. As above, check wiring, replace both relays and check to see if the trigger signal is coming in. Alarm and immobilisers are designed to splice into the fuel and ECU circuits to cut power to them, so are a likely suspect.

Different wheels by the looks of it though. Holy god, that’s some treasure trove of Corrado parts - sounds like they were all seized. Maybe the old thing about the Corrado being a drug dealer’s car is actually true!

I think the moral of the story is never, ever give your car to the insurance company or let them tow anywhere except your home or mechanic of your choice. If they want to inspect the car, let them come to it, or if they insist on doing it at their facility, make sure you escort the car there and back. There is a real trend now of insurers making double their payout back in one way or another, and the poor sod who has lost their car is left at a loss.

Just, two types - the early indicator fits straight into the bumper, whereas the later one goes into a plastic housing which has the fog light built into it.

That's what I was going to suggest - the early 16v and G60 has a different bumper where the fog unit could be removed separately to the indicator. Later cars had a one piece unit with integrated fog light.

Brilliant - it's always nice to get a relatively simple solution to a Corrado problem - especially one that doesn't involve spending lots of money or time trying to source hard to find parts.

Sorry, parts list in the wrong place! #13, spacer ring, shows as 535955733, unfortunately the dreaded "535" means it's a Corrado specific part, but you might be in luck and find it. #2, rubber washer, is 191955265

I've taken a few wiper motors off in the past - there's a whole selection of washers and grommets on there, but not sure if they are available separately. #13 and #2 are a spacer grommet and rubber washer respectively. It might just be worth undoing yours and taking a look - I don't see any reason why you couldn't use a generic washer/seal of the right size instead.

Long shot - would anyone have a set of the CDC mounting brackets for the original VW changers for the side of the boot? I was putting it into the centre armrest, but would prefer it further back - I do have a set of first aid kit mountings, so I guess I could jury-rig them, but would be nice to keep the first aid kit in the arm rest. Thanks.

I remember that, it was a very neat install - it has the disadvantage though of not shortening the length of the loom, although the wire quality will be better - the main benefit was taking the load off the switchgear and dash wiring and fire prevention, same as is done by putting an fuse on the illumination earth from the headlight switch.

Yeah, that looks the part alright - not sure how much they cost though - I think on the last group buy kurzy was willing to consider a sealed unit, but it would have upped the price by a lot so we left it off as there was already extra cost for the OEM connectors. If I was going for a marine unit like this one, I would go whole hog with 4 relays - it gives you the most redundancy if anything goes wrong.

The only issue I ever had was when the in-line fuses burnt out after my top rad hose sprung a leak - in daylight thankfully. They weren't really covered or waterproofed, and some of the looms I've seen move them closer to the relays or even into the relay box itself.

Just get a waterproof/sealed electronics project box that will fit the relays, and then you cut a hole in the side for a special wiring grommet that is weatherproof - RS Electronics or similar should have all that. One end of the wires will need to be disconnected either way - to be honest, first loom I had I just put them in a ziploc bag beside the battery, and that worked just as well!

It should click, also indicators should work if it is slightly held down. I’m not sure if the click comes from the relay or the dash cluster. I retrofitted comfort indicators with a new relay, so you get three or four blinks after pushing the stalk and letting go.

Looks more like someone applied a faulty configuration to their backbone routers that direct all traffic to, from and between the FB data centres. Can easily happen, have done it myself in the past on a much smaller scale! But I would have thought that they would have had some kind of out of band management access over dial-up or 4G for emergencies like this - that's what we put in afterwards. Apparently they had to actually send a team to the data centre to get access and fix it (read reboot).

Haha. Agreed. For me, topran = notran, or also ran. Have been stung a few times, and would never buy again - in fairness Heritage should not be selling them, or at least give a quality indicator the way GSF used to do.

Blue box - ATE written on it In white, exactly the same part and fits like a glove. I’ll try to dig it out tomorrow. I don’t think it’s that important if the parts are of equivalent quality, and ATE is used all over the car.

Yeah. It was definitely old enough to be original. It’s a common enough part across the VW/Audi range, so they probably just used whatever supplier stock was available l, be it ATE, TRW or FTE. Mist of the other hydraulic components are ATE anyway.

The ATE one is what I fitted, and excellent quality. Original one I took off was also ATE.

Nothing like a giant BGP cock-up to take your service completely down - from looking at what info is out there, it looks as if all the routes pointing to the Zuckerberg data centers were withdrawn at the same time, also taking out their name servers as these were co-located at the same sites. Nice.

Definitely slave - you might not see any leakage if it's not fully blown as the fluid will be inside the boot - sometimes a quick bleed of the slave, followed by the master (can be done with just gravity) will sort it for a while as a temporary repair, but the slave cylinder is not too dear and and a handy enough job compared to most others on the Corrado.

That did not come from Kurzy. It's got spade connectors, so won't connect directly onto the lamp housing socket, the spade connectors will go on to the terminals in the socket instead.So, the two ring terminals will be + and - on the battery, end of loom to the spades on your headlights, and then you take one of your existing plugs from the OEM loom and hook the new loom on there, this is what signals the relay to trip. That looks like a two relay one, so you probably have one for each side. To be honest it doesn't look great quality in the pictures, so if I were you I'd just arrange to buy a new one. Kurzy on here did a group buy deal not long ago, or another member on here might have a decent one for sale. I'll take a look and see what I have and get some photos up for comparison. The OEM plug sockets are really a must, and very easy to buy both the male and the female ones now.

That's pretty cool - welcome aboard!

Just to update this - in the end I went for an Optimate 3 unit with the fly-lead connector with ring terminals directly attached to the battery (about 50cm long) and an extension lead to pass it out the front window of my house - works a treat, and does a gentle charge-up and maintenance cycle after that. I have much more powerful chargers for when a battery is out of the car that I can use indoors, but this is just to make sure it doesn't go flat over the course of several weeks (I know of course that it's a heinous crime not to sue your Corrado at least once a week! I believe the warrant is in the post.) They also do more powerful units, but this one suited me as I don't need dual setting CAN bus stuff etc. I've ordered a longer fly-lead (100cm) and the plan is to route that from the battery to the tow-eye cover on the passenger side. In the end, after lots of looking on-line and dealing with orders returned by customs, I found them at a motor bike shop around the corner from where one of my kids does gymnastics - most other places were out of stock. A great stroke of luck, and maybe worth remembering as these things were originally designed for bikes, so hence a bike shop being a good place to find them. I wasn't impressed with anything I saw in Halfrauds, and the bonus was that the above setup was much cheaper than on-line, even without the postage.

Yeah, those trays are rarely ever seen on a car any more as they will all have fallen victim to kerbs and speed ramps and multi storeys. I have a set for the VR I bought a few years back but haven't got around to fitting them yet - would make absolutely no sense with a 90mm splitter, maybe with a 70 or 50mm, as the front lip of the tray/air guide sits at the same height as the edge of the splitter.