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As far as I know there was never a Fischer CD box for the Corrado, early or late - only for the Mk2 Golf (I know because I had one at one stage) and there was also a DIN sized 4 CD generic unit. The cassette one I've only seen ones for early Corrados - the cubby definitely changes from early to late, aand it's also right or left hand drive specific. But this is a great DIY option and write up. Kudos.

VSR doesn’t need an ISV as they are rarely standing still long enough to idle! [emoji41] In fairness I don’t really know - maybe if you use the motorised OBD2 throttle body from the Golf? Although the VSR was originally designed for OBD1 engines.

Can you use a water pump pliers or spanner on it to hold it steady? You can also get them undone one by one by holding the other one steady in the other direction - but the last one will be a pain then!

Yeah, swapping over the pulley is now the standard approach. Everything else is a straight fit.

Very nice - a true custom build, and you won't be tempted to sell them when you fal on hardship as it's extremely unlikely you'll find a buyer with another 16vG60! 😉

Would recommend a full bleed of all callipers, master and ABS pump. 288s won't really give a noticable difference in feel, but you will have increased braking power once you press hard. The problem with a lot of the older cars is that the mechanical advantage of the pedal at the master cylinder/servo is limited by design - so it will never feel as sharp as a newer car. Other things to check are the seals on the servo, any vacuum leaks, and most importantly to replace the brake master (which is now sadly unobtanium for the RHD VR6, best bet is to get Past Parts to rebuild one) as when the internal seals start weeping they won't hold pressure the same way, even if the leak is not visible.

ouch - so the hinge points on the body could be at a different height so - woudl this also explain the roof molding length?

There was a VW Heritage blog article bout the remanufacture of the roof seals and how they had to hunt down the machine tools and extruders and I think it mentioned that they changed tooling during the lifetime of the Corrado as the molds wear out - that might explain the difference. I can't see the roof section anf gutters being different.

Does it really make a difference if the late seals fit both early and late cars? I doubt anyone will be checking to see if they are the correct ones on the few cars that had them.Obviously in terms of the eBay fiasco it makes a huge difference to you, especially as the seller looks to have damaged them.

Yep, keep that (tank pump cover lid) and the hoses, and these connect to the new swirl pot, The wires should have spade connectors on them that will clip on to the pump terminals - I think when I did my swap I extended the wires for the fuel level sender slightly and crimped on some new spader connectors. Some trivia: there is actually a special VW tool for loosening and tightening the pump lid lockring

I would not drive a Corrado or Mk2 at night without an uprated loom and some osram nightbreakers or equivalent in there unless I had no choice - otherwise it's a suicide mission, and you are a hazard to others as well because you won't be able to see them in time. Better windscreen wipers are another must - these two upgrades are probably essentials before anyone starts looking at any performance/suspension items.

You should just look at the money you spend as for your own benefit, and not as a return on investment. Most elderly VRs will drink a fair amount of oil, without there necessarily being something terribly wrong. Common points are the valve cover gaskets and both bottom seals. I would say chains and clutch should be top of your list at that mileage.

Fuel Pump VDO E22-041-060Z Fuel level sender VDO 221-833-002-011Z Pump I got from Mr Auto, and the sender off fleabay. Hope this helps. Both are currently listed on autodoc.de, although the fuel pump is not cheap - usually about €200 Unit price GBP 61.89 https://www.autodoc.de/search?keyword=+E22-041-060Z&supplier[1]=83 https://www.autodoc.de/vdo/1736285?search=VDO Sensor, Kraftstoffvorrat (221-833-002-011Z)# According to vwvortex posts, the Quinton Hazell is a direct rebrand of the VDO item and equivalent quality, and looks to be cheaper, but not sure if that unit is 4 bar.

The VDO pump will come with the swirl pot - just the sender required. Don't think a VDO pump body will fit into the Pierburg swirl pot. I'll see if I can dig out the part numbers of both for you to stick into Google.

They look correct - but I found before that they might not fit a replacement electric pump exactly and might need some modding.

The 2.9 ABV engine was always specced at 4 bar - the 3 bar pumps were fitted to the 2.8 AAA etc. VR engines in the Golf/Passat and US SLC Corrado. You could probably get away with it if you match it to the correct fuel pressure regulator, but would be the wrong one for the car - I guess higher pressure means more fuel delivered by the injectors for the same pulse timing, so you might see a small performance drop - the higher pressure pump might be to allow for the extra displacement. Would be interesting to see if anyone has done it on here and what their experiences were....

Not sure what you mean by "scratchy" - are you sure it's not loose wiring or a damaged speaker cone? I would have thought running a low volume static radion channel through it would be the same as what you describe - but I'm not and expert on ICE so stand to be corrected/educated.

There seem to be PIERBURG 7.02550.58.0 and VAG1H0906091 part numbers for the pump body only, but don't quote me on it or the bar being 3 or 4. I'd say your best bet is to source a complete VDO swirl pot assembly and pump and the correct VDO fuel gauge sender and float, and be done with it. The Pierburg was only ever fitted to very early VR6s, and the discontinued. Even online part databases only list VDO, but I know I used to have an older copy of ETKA that died with my Windows XP system, that also listed the Pierburg.

Is your old pump a Pierburg? These are no longer available, asn the standard route is to fit the VDO 4-bar unit and you will also need to order a fuel gauge sender to go along with it as these are a different fit to the swirl pot. It will be pretty hard to match the pump body only as you are trying to do - is there a part number on it? My car is 1993 VR with dizzy (same as yours I think) and originally had a Pierburg pump, then replaced with a VDO unit like the later cars - the metal pump motor insert is hard to come by on its own and probably involves a bit of trial and error - but a 4-5 bar unit of the correct size and fittings should work no problem, the fuel pressure regulator will drop the pressure a bit. Bosch do a whole range of these pumps, like the 040/044 and Walbro as well. Usually it's just eaier to buy the whole assembly including swirl pot and sender float if you need it. If you do a search here, there are already a number of good threads discussing the options. e.g.

Sad to see you are selling up, but GLWS and hope it goes to a good home.

Ha ha - usually my own, when I look at some repair carried out in the early days of ownership and blissful ignorance and end up asking "what eejit did this? Oh, wait, that was me!"

Good safety advice there, and yeah, an IR thermometer is very handy to get spot temps in the engine bay. In my experience the dash coolant temp gaiuges on cars of this era are just not that accurate, and it's easy to stress over them - if the sensors and wiring are old, they will also not read accurately. Using VCDS to check the temp signal going to the ECU from the blue sender works well, and then comparing to the dash gauge, but I've often seen a 20% discrepancy between the two, and also in the rate of change, so go figure. I think if you renew the coolant system and related components and make sure that your fans operate as described in the coolant thread, you should be fine. I tend to think of the dash needle a more of an "oh sh*t, pull over" warning device rather than an accurate display of coolant temperature. The MFA oil temp is a lot more useful.

It's not the stats they engineered, but the dash circuits - they evened out the fluctuations on more modern cars with voltage stabilisers etc. so as not to panic people. My VR will change quite a lot depending on being stuck in traffic or on the open road with plenty of airflow. The only difference with the stats would be the rated temperatures at which they open and close, but that could affect a lot of other things such as th engine not getting hot enough to go into normal fuel map. The sensor is in a part of the thermostat housing, facing the front, often covered by a little black plastic flap - it is at the front of the block, to the right, and there will be three sensors in a row - I think you would be looking for a yellow one for the dash coolant gauge. If you look and follow some of the wiring from near the distributor or coil pack, three parts of the loom will go to this housing. Checking that your existing stat is functioning properly or even better just replacing it is also a good idea - but a lot more pain that swapping out the senders! The blue one is for the ECU coolant temp, and there will also be a black/brown for the fan controller. There's a thread on here with all the details, including the low temp senders and thermostats - found it: Thermostat housing on the right - where you can see the holes for the 3 senders.

- Gamma III or better IV for period that correct retro look, you can get aux and bt modules for these and the IV will operate a changer - Blaupunkt Bremen SQR 46 if you have lots of money and don't wnat a CD changer - Nakamichi CD35/45z in green illumination or CD300/500, but these are hard to find and pricey - Or for a budget option that still looks good and has green lighting, the VDO CD unit from a Hyunday Coupe/Getz (this is documented on here somewhere) I'm sure there's lots of other possibilities - really depends on the input/outputs you would like and how space age you want to go with disco lighting etc.!

The US system is the same as that used in Europe on LHD cars - but I don't think the sensors are any different - the bit you mention must be either part of the insualted wire itself or on the ABS loom to the ABS ECU. Normal tests are just across the terminals on the sensor - can you point out where you believe this part to be (assuming you are working off the Bentley wiring diagrams) but I imagine any test would just be of the sensor and loom, and if not within specs, then replace the sensor. They are relatively cheap and easy to get hold of. Or maybe try comparing your old sensor values with a new one? The parts that tend to go most oftern on ABS systems on the Corrado are sensors, wheel rings, the hydraulic pump unit and the ABS ECU (water damage), assuming the loom is ok. What was the original symptom you are trying to diagnose?