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I have 195s stretched on at the moment on original rims, but would prefer the 205 for that little bit of extra width - Uniroyal Rainsports were the last ones I saw. Michelin are now doing the PS series for classic cars, they don't have a 205 yet, but might add one soon.

Hopefully they are ok - the sender part# is definitely correct for the VDO pump as that is what I have on my car, Keyo as well as far as I know. Lets us know how you get on when they arrive. It's a real pain that the search for nearly every part for a Corrado has turned into a lengthy and often disapointing magical mystery tour and treasure hunt! There used to be a thread on here for listing OEM equivalent part numbers for commonly sought parts - might be worth resurecting

I would have thought the same thing, but funnily enough there is a thread on the vortex discussing them and the guys reckoned they were rebadged VDO and same quality. I haven’t tried one to find out though, but that’s why I mentioned it.

Did you try putting the part number and “VDO” into Google? Might get some hits to follow up on.

for sure - that's why I added it at the end - should have been at the beginning really lol: You definitely don't want to do the whole thing and then realise that your motor was actually working, or even worse, that the second hand replacement one isn't after rivetting it in!

Controls or the resistor on the fan blower motor? What are your symptoms? To remove the controls, gently lever off the trim cover surround, the dials stay in place and you will see four screws holding it in - the mounts for these often break though. The unit will then lift out, but only a bit if the control cables are still attached. The resistor fix for missing a single speed is easily doen and well documented on the web as other VWs had the same issue - if the controls are the rotary ones, it's more tricky - they are very fragile and the cog teeth tend to break if the knob is forced in any way. They operate using three bowden cables to the flaps on the heater matrix and often get stuck -the fix would be to replace the cables and sleeves, make sure all the control flaps move freely and then check the internals of the dial unit for damage and try to repair with epoxy. The units are LHD and RHD specific and almost impossible to get hold of new - and unfortunately specific to the later cars.

Not an easy one I'm afraid - but doable with a bit of patience and double jointed elbows. - inner handles and door card off (watch for hidden screws at front and behind the speaker trim) - remove what's left of the waterproof membrane, if any - remove inner and outer door scrapers to remove glass for access if needed (can be propped up but is very heavy) - disconnect loom to regulator - drill 3-5 rivets holding regulator and motor in place - test new regulator on bench to be sure it works - replace, mounting with new rivets and rubber bushes (can also use bolt/nut combination for the rivet mounting which can make life easier in future) - replace the plastic window rollers with poly items while in there, clean and grease the rail It's not possible to replace the motor on it's own, it comes as a compete unit with the cables and guides attached. Sometimes they just stick, and a good working over with a mallet will sort them - also check your switch and control module is not faulty by running some current from a 12v leisure battery to the motor while in situ to check (reverse polarity to open and close). Hope that helps - been a while since I did it so sure to have missed something - there are some vids on YouTuve, but the best write up was on the Canadian Corrado web site.

Haha - the horror! [emoji41][emoji28] next video “how to completely destroy a campaign with ordinary household tools and reassemble into a Ford Fiesta”

Well, a Corrado (or any car for that matter) doesn't need to be perfect or have a lot of money sunk into it to be enjoyed and put a smile on your face - one of my all time favourites was a 1987 Audi Coupe Quattro that could at best have been described as in middling condtion, but I loved it every time I drove it, even if it was missing half the dash and the door cards most of the time. My current VR6 has given over 10 years of great ownership, now needs some work and tidying up, but I always look forward to getting behind the wheel and it never dissapoints. I would say that in my opinion the Corrado is not a wise investment vehicle, rather a driver's car - that territory belongs to things like the classic air-cooked 911 and the like.

The one that went to Ireland disappeared into a black hole it seems - probably some private collection or something. I would know most of the cars over here, or at least have heard of them.

The Canadian forum was always excellent - a brilliant resource with plenty of DIYs and photos, and with probably a much smaller number of cars there.

Would be an outrage to have a Campaign leaving UK shores as they were a special edition for that market only! Really belongs in a museum or auto exhibition.

No worries - it’s always a pleasure to help solve something - I can’t take credit for it, just for knowing where it was and being able to point in the right direction! All that ECU info in the archives and plenty more besides was down to the legendary RW1, now sadly passed away - the details he knew or could dig up were unbelievable.

Was never really sure if the full reset ECU procedure was necessary - you can be sure most garages don't bother or don't even know about it - and the ECU will relearn the correct values over time anyway, but the procedure ensures you have the correct initial settings.

Look in the wiki here - there’s a full reset procedure, a bit more involved that’s just disconnecting the battery. Did you check for any vacuum leaks anywhere? Even a small leak can affect idle - you can get a vac gauge to put inline with a t-piece to test. Could also be a faulty MAF reading - do you have access to VCDS and a test lead to check out all the signals?

The Passat ones are similar, but slightly thinner and take two drinks. Can be got in black or grey.

You and me and the rest of the VR6 world - still dreaming…

Yeah, Fischer used to make all the OEM accesories like the storage boxes for VW, same as VDO for the centre consoles with gauges for the Golf. Would be interesting to get hold of one of their old catalogues to check out what was available - I definitely had a cassette and a CD box as well as the DIN CD holder for my Golf back in the day.

As far as I know there was never a Fischer CD box for the Corrado, early or late - only for the Mk2 Golf (I know because I had one at one stage) and there was also a DIN sized 4 CD generic unit. The cassette one I've only seen ones for early Corrados - the cubby definitely changes from early to late, aand it's also right or left hand drive specific. But this is a great DIY option and write up. Kudos.

VSR doesn’t need an ISV as they are rarely standing still long enough to idle! [emoji41] In fairness I don’t really know - maybe if you use the motorised OBD2 throttle body from the Golf? Although the VSR was originally designed for OBD1 engines.

Can you use a water pump pliers or spanner on it to hold it steady? You can also get them undone one by one by holding the other one steady in the other direction - but the last one will be a pain then!

Yeah, swapping over the pulley is now the standard approach. Everything else is a straight fit.

Very nice - a true custom build, and you won't be tempted to sell them when you fal on hardship as it's extremely unlikely you'll find a buyer with another 16vG60! 😉

Would recommend a full bleed of all callipers, master and ABS pump. 288s won't really give a noticable difference in feel, but you will have increased braking power once you press hard. The problem with a lot of the older cars is that the mechanical advantage of the pedal at the master cylinder/servo is limited by design - so it will never feel as sharp as a newer car. Other things to check are the seals on the servo, any vacuum leaks, and most importantly to replace the brake master (which is now sadly unobtanium for the RHD VR6, best bet is to get Past Parts to rebuild one) as when the internal seals start weeping they won't hold pressure the same way, even if the leak is not visible.

ouch - so the hinge points on the body could be at a different height so - woudl this also explain the roof molding length?