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Yeah, checked Aldi web site, but nothing at the moment. I'll pick one up as a spare the next time it comes around based on the goof feedback.

Thanks for the feedback guys - I checked out the CTEK, but they were hard to get locally at a decent price, but look good - in the end I ordered an Optimate 5 (4 amp charging and conditioning/maintenance) with the battery terminal fly leads and extension, so I will let you know how I get on with that. - hopefully I might be able to run the charging socket from the battery down to the passenger tow eye cover...

With the car being used less frequently over lock down and working from home, I'm getting tired of pulling a flat battery every six weeks or so and having to charge it in the house and then put it back in - so I'm looking for something that will let me attach two ring terminals and a socket lead to the battery in the car and then be able to run a lead through the window out to the car where I can hook it up to maintain and charge the battery? I already have a small charger I use indoors, and a larger unit that can be used to jump start the car from the mains. After some quick research, I'm leaning towards one of the Optimate 2/3/4 units, as they seem to come with these kind of leads and have good reviews, but would welcome anyone sharing their experiences and suggestions. Solar is not a runner, but tempting. Many thanks.

Same here - is not possible to get the non-isofix seats any more? We've usually had the isofix in our other "family" car, and normal ones secured by seatbelts in the Corrado - I used to pus a blanket underneath the seat to protect the leather...

I've always managed to get a small bay seat and the next size up in the back no problem when we had two small ones - once you secure with the seatbelt properly, they are as good as isofix, just more of a pain to move them from car to car - Maxi Cosi was the brand, and the baby seat sat perfectly in the bucket seat in the back.

There you go - Corrado maintenance requires patience (and a deep pocket) and all is well in the end - you need to have it as you wait for parts anyway........

I've been there many a time with the VR and other cars - things always work out the next day or so, or at least you can try and figure them out having had some wine, rest and a fresh perspective!

Welcome to the forum - you're in the right place for answers to Corrado queries and there's a wealth of knowledge on here. It's worth checking out the search feature thoroughly, as a lot of stuff has been exhaustively covered already.

You might have an issue because k-jetronic operates at a higher pressure than electronic fuel injeciton systems, generally around 5.5-6 bar (designed for Messerschmidt engines!) as opposed to 2.5-4.5, so you need to make sure that you source the right kind of fuel hose - that's why all the fuel distributor lines are braided.

That's pretty cool in fairness - looks like cat litter they're using. Haha - one hour later, shiny shiny, two hours later - only half a wheel left etc.

Look nicely made - I wonder if they still have the Corrado molds and drawings?

Adjustment is the same process on both - there is actually a VAG tool for holding the shifter end in place during adjustment, but it's not really necessary - the Bentley explains the full setup using the tool, but Kev's method works just as well. with a little bit more trial and error.

That is just the cap for the wiper arm, the nozzle is fixed into the wiper motor spindle and you can adjust the direction of the jet with a small pin. Looks to be a pretty standard part, also used on the T4 van: https://www.justkampers.com/us/3a0955435-rear-wiper-arm-cap-vw-t4-1991-2003.html I'd say try the VAG dealer first as it might still be available, or fleabay.

As above, they are just standard 2-plug ISO connectors - you can pick these up loose wiring tails easily at any motor factors, electronics place or dare I say Halfrauds - you won''t be using all the pins on the red one, but the other one will have 8 pins for your speakers.

This should have all the info. It was the same for Mk2 Golfs and cars of the era that had the same matrix type fitted. This doc has all the instructions and part numbers. I don' t think there should be any gurgling without the valve fitted - that was how the cars would have left the factory anyway - I'd say there might still be some air in the system somewhere, or also it could be the auxiliary electric water pump. recall-matrix.pdf

Is that where the washer jet used to be? Looks like it might have been leaking.........I can't actually remember what was there on my Mk2

Love the early steering wheel!

AFAIK the valve is there to to stop the heater matrix rupturing if there is a cooling issue or overheating, a safety/CYA thing as front passengers would get scalded. If the cooling system is up to scratch and maintaining temperatures within tolerances it won't be strictly necessary. The gurgling sounds like there is still air trapped in the system, so the best way is to make sure that it is bled out when refilling - I tend to refill first, leave the reservoir cap off and start the engine and let it warm up, squeezing the top and bottom rad hoses every once in a while - when the stat opens it will take a big gulp, so you'll need to top up quickly, check the hoses again, then put the cap on, go for a drive, let it settle and top up as needed to get the correct level. The coolant is pressurised when hot, so be very careful when opening the cap - let it sit for a while.

New valve caps?

Lots of pics here if you scroll down a bit: https://www.google.com/search?q=schrick+vgi+corrado&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwjGgtG7iODxAhXWSEEAHRfxDOQQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=schrick+vgi+corrado&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzoECAAQHlDhMliaTGDQTWgAcAB4AIABYYgBzgiSAQIxNZgBAKABAaoBC2d3cy13aXotaW1nwAEB&sclient=img&ei=gontYMa5AdaRhbIPl-KzoA4&bih=581&biw=1356&client=firefox-b-d Looks like most seem to run them underneath, front and back rows, and then out to the side. Not sure if you would need slightly shorter than standard to keep it all neat? This is why I'd prefer a VSR over a Shrick if my dreams ever came true - kind of a style over substance thing, as I do know the Shrick delivers a more bang for your buck 😉

In this context, “Please do not caress” is probably a better translation!

From vague memory it would have been a white LED, 2.1V and a 500 ohm resistor. I remember I measured the current etc. at the time with a friend who had LEDs and resistors handy. You could always measure the signal coming in, but I'm pretty sure it was 12V and there are lots of sites that let you work out what kind of inline resistor you would need , such as https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/tools/led-resistor-calculator/ I think you can also now get ready to solder LEDs that have a resistor built in. If you don't want to go down the LED route, any electronics shop should have 12v filament bulb, something like this should work: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/incandescent-light-bulbs/0105231/ Maybe an LED is better as it won't blow and runs cooler, but I guess the idea with the warning light is that it's only supposed to come on for a couple of seconds and then stay out, although that's almost never the case in a Corrado in my experience!

How did you test the pumps? I usually just hook up a leisure battery direct to the terminals at the pump, with a toggle switch on the positive wire. Did you inject power directly at the relay block?

All we've got in Ireland for years is bog standard 95 octane - never had any issues with it in over 10 years and no damage to the fuel pump mounts (that might have been the result of some additive or cleaner - maybe some one put some JET-1 in there?). All VW engines from the Mk2 Digifant onwards will seem to run fine on 95 or 98 and the ECU will adjust to suit it as long as the knock sensors are working - you just might not get as much power, and there's no denying that these engines prefer to drink high octane.

You can lift and press the inner trim panel with the sunroof closed, and then rotate it 90 degrees to slide out towards the front and remove. He was just showing off with the tool - it makes it definitely easier, but is not strictly necessary. A good carpenter could probably make one very handily, but it will be one of those special tools that will only ever be used once or twice - I guess maybe more considering how often the sunroofs break lol: