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Well - took about 5 hours over 2 days, but I finally managed to remove and replace the black heater control cable that operated the defrost/heat flap! This is the one that runs from the control on the left with the two cables, over and around the matrix and attacehes to the flap lever in the drivers footwell, not too far from the clutch pedal - an absolute nightmare to get to. Those metal clips are tricky, and the one on the flap end is well nigh impossible to get to, and the hardest part was getting the cable attached securely again. But after lots of swearing, breaks and contortions I have a nicely working and smooth heaer control again that doesn't stick and feel like it is about to break. Debating now on whether to remove the metal clip for the positions stops, although mine seems to work pretty well, and the second cable is moving freely. The heater control box was reconditioned and all the flaps relined not too long ago. Next job on the list is the foliage seal cover....

Good call as well, but that would usually have been picked up on during a clutch change - happens to all cars too, I had them go on a Mk2 and Mk5 Golf, so not VR6 specific. I now tend to ask them to check it and replace if needed as a precaution.

Never heard this before - the master/slave clutch arrangement is used on lots of other cars, and was standard on the Passat and later Golfs - so tried and tested. The actual clutch on the VR is considered to be rateed well over what is required for the VR and it is not uncommon for them to go well over 100k, even 150k on an unmodified car. Your problem is most likely to do with the gear linkage which might need adjustment or a rebuild - some of the plastic busjes and linkages are prone to wear. My first step would be to change the gear box oil with some Redline MT90 or equivalent if this hasn't been done recently, and do a proper adjustment. After that investigate refurbishing the linkage and shift tower bushings - some even upgrade to a later mech from a MkIV or Polo and have never had any issues since. Do as search here on shift linkage adjustment etc and the procedure will come up - there is a special VAG tool for it, but it is not needed, it simply centres the gear lever while you adjust the linkage in the engine bay, but a friend can do this duty for you.

One interesting variation was the "Aktiv" speaker system, these were Nokia speakers that were directly powered, active units - paired with a head unit that had not active pre-amp out stage, so wouldn't work with normal speakers. There was a rare Gamma CD unit designed for the Aktiv system, that as far as I know was the only CD head unit from that era, probably because losing the amplification stage made some extra room for the older CD mechanism - the rest all had casette units with CD changers. It's pretty rare to see now, comes up in the odd Golf Cabrio, but I have seen evidence of a couple of Corrados being fitted with it. It didn't necessarily sound any better, but an interesting oddity nonetheless.

Can you heae the tweeters working? I remember reading somehwere that there was actually a cross-over of some kind in the factory tweeters, but not sure if that's true - I guess the real reason is that the factory stereos jsut have 4x speaker output, so needs to be wired that way.

Would you really be bothered putting the old original tweeters back in? They weren't that great to begin with and will have suffered the ravages of time at this stage. Small tweeter/speaker technology has really come on since then, and you should be able to to find something modern that fits and actually works - once the trim is on you won't see a difference. Another alternative is jsut to fit decent components in the doors and leave the dash ones empty - although I do get wanting to have everything back to factory 100%. although I've never heard of a show where a judge asks you to lift the speaker grille to check for the Nokia logo! Nokia were better at making phones anyway, and even that didn't last.. (actually they made way more selling backbone carrier and mast equipment and firewalls - don't ask me how I know).

Hey, that's some great research and tinkering there - this could be the solution. Will have a good read. Thanks for the effort and the sharing!

Never - the odd time they come up on US eBay as part of a whole throttle body, but the asking price was never worth it just to get the one part. In the end I gave it all a good clean, replaced the throttle cable and fixed any air leaks (ISV damper, PCV valve) and replaced the cam sensor as well, and that seemed to fix my issues for the time being.

Probably the cable got slack over the years, or stretched a bit. Nice easy result. The dashpot is actually an Audi part - almost impossible to get hold of, NLA and only ever seems to come up as part of a breaker's throttle body - it's also OBD1 specific. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/dashpot/034133283/ I remember spending a long time scouring the interwebs looking for one a few years back.

Wheel bearing? Also check the bearings on all the pulleys and the main tensioner for the aux belt.

That's a good price if he actually has it - I think I tried to order one off them before and it never shipped and had to get a refund in the end.

Fuel Pump VDO E22-041-060Z Fuel level sender VDO 221-833-002-011Z If you already have a VDO pump (which you should have on a 95) you can jut swap your old sender over. Try Mr Auto, Autodoc.de and fleaBAy - also a specialist motor factor should be able to source from VDO directly, and they have a UK warehouse.

No smoking! Carb spray on likely suspects can also work.

The code you are thinking of that always comes up with the engine not running is: DTC "00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal" This is for the crank position sensor at the front bottom of the block, and shows up because it is obviously not getting a signal so can be ignored. It will go awat as soon as the engine is turning. For the one above, I would check the MAF, replace with a known good one if possible as a test, check fuel pressure and also test for air leaks anywhere in the inlet - you can also get a vacuum gauge that you can plumb in with a t-piece to measure the manifold pressure.

Yep, any air getting in after the MAF will cause problems with idle, as eventually it will exceed the ability of the ISV to compensate. Most likely culprits are the small hoste from the FPR to the inlet manifold, the ISV damper box and tubing, PCV and associated pipework and the brake servo and related hoses.

PM sent - thanks

I can remove if needed - I think one or two pages should be fine for fair use, it's not the whole book after all. Plus I can prove I own one and paid for it. If it's an issue let me know. Save as

This one for the VR6 "plus-achsel" wide track suspension

For 4-cylinder cars

Some torque settings to be found here: https://wiki.the-corrado.net/torque_settings_and_bolt_sizes.html

I run 15" OEM Speedlines with 288s with no fouling issues - it's tight, but the tyre shop just used a different profile balance weight and put somewhere else on the rim.

Yeah, the 288s should have a spring clip bonded onto the back of the inner pad that sits into the piston. Are those spacers on there? Just wondring if they coudl be causing an issue with clearance, but unlikely - assuming you are runing 16/17s

Check none of the pistons are seized - the front pads should also have a spring clip with 3 legs attached on the pad facing the piston that sit into the pistion seat itself. Also the calliper sliding pins should move freely, especially on the rears.

Is it just a block of foam shaped lie the first aid kit? Might be interested - thinking of mounting a CD changer in there, so this might be useful....

Ha ha - I have mine at least 8 years I think - got them from ARZ back in the day. My plan was to fit same as yours uing this template as a guide - top shows the US profile and bottom the standard one. Great tip on removing the wiper and using those wires to feed the brake light though. One day hopefully......