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fendervg

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Everything posted by fendervg

  1. A,B,C etc. work backwards alphabetically from the windscreen - so A is where the front of the door meets the side of the windscreen, and C is the one that annoys you when you are trying to reverse.... I guess a van or bus could have D and E pillars?
  2. For the FPR, once it's rated to the correct 4 bar, it should be fine - the outlet diameter shouldn't make a difference as I think that's the return to the tank and the FPR's job is to maintain constant pressure in the fuel rail feeding the injectors and then dump excess fuel into the return, so the vacuum hose to the side is essential. It's easy to test pressure using the small test nipple on the front left of the rail - as simple pressure gauge is can be sourced pretty easily to attach to it, with a drain tap to release the pressure. Are there any other symptoms apart from the 00561 (Mixture Adaptation: Adaptation Limit (Add) Exceeded) error? Engine fuelling seems to depend on a lot of sensors working together, such as the TPS, crank sensor, MAF and O2 and the blue temp sender in the thermostat housing.
  3. Well, washing with warm water is always better than cold lol I’m sure the elements have to burn out after a couple of years though - have never tested mine. Screenwash does have a lower freezing point, so assume this is just to help clear the nozzles?
  4. For sure - you tend to forget after a while. I’ve been stuck in a 2011 Verso d4d with a dying turbo for my sins! The horror.
  5. Started the VR6 today for the first time in over a year of lockdown! Had turned the engine over plugs out on the crankshaft last week, and today put the battery back in and it fired straight back into life after just three turns of the engine, settling down to a nice steady idle. Quick turn round our cul de sac and some better parking (to make room for a skip lorry) and that was it. Alarm, radio, sunroof and both windows and central locking still working too. Will go for a longer spin later on in the week, but that has cheered me up no end and will hopefully be some motivation towards getting back to working on and using. The car It was nice to sit behind the wheel of a real car again!
  6. UK 2.0 16V was a 9A engine code
  7. Fair enough - yes, it can be very hard to source parts, especially if not available locally. At least in the UK all late post facelift 16V engines were the 2.0 version, the early ones were 1.8 - there were also a couple of specially built 16V G60 supercharged ones. The car looks great in red with the Sebring wheels.
  8. Welcome to the forum - what a great piece of history - are you tempted to put a G60 engine back in for originality?
  9. Ooh - could work well and looks nice and OEM - but what about the weight of the drink in it though? That vent is only held in by two screws - one at the top and the other at the instrument cluster surround, which is the one I'd be concerned about.
  10. This is what I had from back in the day: 357 919 369F - sensor for fan - in thermostat housing x 1 357 121 210 - plastic fan cowling x 1 1H0119137A - aux radiator fan belt x 1 171 121 276D - rubber washer for radiator x 2 N 903 059 01 - front bumper mounting bolts x 4 so 357 121 210 is the fan ring, I only needed one at the time - 357 means it's also used on the Passat, and I see some references to Seat Toledo etc.
  11. It's worth doing a search for those rings - they are out there, I got some new 2 years ago when replacing my radiator - I'll see if I can dig out the receipt and part# - as far as I remember they are not a Corrado specific part either, and used on other models. One problem is that if the metal shroud is rusting, the holes that the rings clip into could be corroded and might not fit securely.
  12. Relatively easy to test the motor by unplugging the loom and hooking up a small leisure battery to drive it - just reverse +/- to go in the other direction. Once the door card is off it will be easy to see what's what. The switch is also often the culprit, and there are some relays behind the RHS rear seat trim, but more often than not the motors just give up and start seizing - some have had some success by giving the motor housing a few sharp taps to free it up, and I've seen some DIYs on opening up and refurbishing the motors, but that may be overkill. Second hand motors will also be tired. If your window guide rails and the channels that the rollers sit in at the bottom are dirty or damaged, this can cause the motor to cut out before it pulls too much current.
  13. No issue with the OE hoses, but they tend to bulge a bit under pressure and most prefer to upgrade to braided hoses, which give a more consistent pedal feel and (maybe, but how do you measure it?) improved braking performance. Be aware that the braided hoses still use a rubber core, which can perish and split and is much harder to check than the OE ones.
  14. I think they don't have the anti rattle plate because the pad on the piston side clips into the piston with three spring plates that are attached to the back of the pad.
  15. There are two different types of 288mm callipers, one with banjo fitting, one with a screw fitting, and different cylinder sizes - so watch out: From VR6 Golf3, banjo fitting 3A0615123 calliper with 54mm pistons lh 3A0615124 calliper with 54mm pistons rh From Passat,screw thread 4A0615123A calliper with 57mm pistons lh 4A0615124A calliper with 57mm pistons r I've never seen the Passat ones in person, I bought new Mk3 ones from VW when I did mine, and used the Goodridge braided hoses with the banjo fitting. Both types are ATE.
  16. That's the way it already is here in Ireland - car needs to be 30 years or older for classic tax status, this was upped from 25 about then years ago. Up to that age you pay full tax, which is a killer on larger engined ones like the VR. Insurance here will treat a car as a classic from 20-25 years old depending on the company, but the policies are pretty restrictive.
  17. The fuel pump relay also gets an ignition on signal from the ECU relay - if this is not there, then it won't bridge power to the pump - if you look at the diagram on the side of the relay, it will show you which pin is which, and you could check with a multimeter or test probe connected to a known good earth to see if this voltage is there - just checking, I think this is pint 85, the small one. I don't have the wiring diagrams to hand, but I think it's relay 167 that the signal comes from. Hope this helps - I've had a nightmare troubleshooting this stuff previously, but bridging is good to have the pump running permanently, lets you move the car and proves the pump is working etc., but you need to figure out if the relays are working and if the signals that switch them are there. Best of luck and hope it gets sorted.
  18. I think people's experiences vary - on mine, you don't really notice much difference until you press down really hard or have to stop - and then they kick in. The pad has a much larger area, so this makes a difference. I think the efficiency of the braking will still be limited by the other components, and the pedal travel is still long and soft. It would be interesting to see if you replaced the servo, vacuum piping and master cylinder with new ones at the same time what the end result would be. At the end of the day, it won't come close to a MkV or newer, and part of this is pure mechanical advantage at the pedal/servo, but 288s are the largest that will fit under stock wheels, which is why it is the most common upgrade.
  19. On the brakes, not sure how up to date this is re part numbers: There was also a more recent one as well, of a build with plenty of photos.
  20. Late Mk3 VR6 had 288s - probably a bit scarce on the ground. They fit easily under standard 15" Speedlines, but not as well with other OEM BSS - I have flat multi-spokes on at the moment, same as these, https://www.partsplaceinc.com/vw-bbs-wheel-15815.html and they just about fit with 288s, depending on the car you might need to shave the callipers slightly. The VR6 Golf basket weave BBS, similar to the G60 ones, that were standard on US spec Corrados and an option in Europe don't fit with the larger brakes - I haven't checked yet to see what could be done about it apart from a trial fitting. Pity, as they look nice. You must be looking to upgrade the brakes soon though - with those 16" Speedlines you could go for any number of twin or four pot setups, or 312s. I guess the issue is when you want to but the standard wheels back on. The other thing to remember (and often forgotten) with 288s is that the space saver won't fit, so you either need to carry a full size spare or move one of the rear wheels to the front if you get a blow-out or puncture on either of the fronts.
  21. Very nice - you'll make us all jealous. Forum rules state that you must put a price beside each item in order to further mankind's knowledge, and a total, which is likely more than the car 😉 😅 In fairness, a lot of effort and attention to details and time spent tracking down all these items - it will definitely be a one of a kind.
  22. fendervg

    brake upgrades

    It sounds more like your front callipers are seizing - from what I remember the proportioning valve just regulates pressure to the two rear callipers according to the position of the rear axle beam under load, so has not effect on the fronts. Maybe try checking to see if the pistons move freely, and bleeding the fronts, checking to see that there are no leaks and that the sliders move freely. Sometimes the pads get stuck to the calliper when the pistons seize up.
  23. You should be able to post pictures here - if it's an item for sale please post a price - presuming they are for an early car. Would also strongly suggest that you don't post your email address or other contact details on the forum - there is private messaging functionality for that.
  24. That's an ebay saved search gone wrong! They could come in handy for standing in the ditch. waiting for the AA to arrive....
  25. fendervg

    VSR

    just an in joke - if you search the eBay ended items you'll see one that went recently for $800 or so (VDO gauges, not VSR of course) - there is a project to 3D print the frame, and as the actual insides are the same, to mount the LHD ones in a RHD dash. I think most, if not all SLCs were fitted with them, so the left sided version is probably more plentiful.
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