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Never - the odd time they come up on US eBay as part of a whole throttle body, but the asking price was never worth it just to get the one part. In the end I gave it all a good clean, replaced the throttle cable and fixed any air leaks (ISV damper, PCV valve) and replaced the cam sensor as well, and that seemed to fix my issues for the time being.

Probably the cable got slack over the years, or stretched a bit. Nice easy result. The dashpot is actually an Audi part - almost impossible to get hold of, NLA and only ever seems to come up as part of a breaker's throttle body - it's also OBD1 specific. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/dashpot/034133283/ I remember spending a long time scouring the interwebs looking for one a few years back.

Wheel bearing? Also check the bearings on all the pulleys and the main tensioner for the aux belt.

That's a good price if he actually has it - I think I tried to order one off them before and it never shipped and had to get a refund in the end.

Fuel Pump VDO E22-041-060Z Fuel level sender VDO 221-833-002-011Z If you already have a VDO pump (which you should have on a 95) you can jut swap your old sender over. Try Mr Auto, Autodoc.de and fleaBAy - also a specialist motor factor should be able to source from VDO directly, and they have a UK warehouse.

No smoking! Carb spray on likely suspects can also work.

The code you are thinking of that always comes up with the engine not running is: DTC "00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal" This is for the crank position sensor at the front bottom of the block, and shows up because it is obviously not getting a signal so can be ignored. It will go awat as soon as the engine is turning. For the one above, I would check the MAF, replace with a known good one if possible as a test, check fuel pressure and also test for air leaks anywhere in the inlet - you can also get a vacuum gauge that you can plumb in with a t-piece to measure the manifold pressure.

Yep, any air getting in after the MAF will cause problems with idle, as eventually it will exceed the ability of the ISV to compensate. Most likely culprits are the small hoste from the FPR to the inlet manifold, the ISV damper box and tubing, PCV and associated pipework and the brake servo and related hoses.

PM sent - thanks

I can remove if needed - I think one or two pages should be fine for fair use, it's not the whole book after all. Plus I can prove I own one and paid for it. If it's an issue let me know. Save as

This one for the VR6 "plus-achsel" wide track suspension

For 4-cylinder cars

Some torque settings to be found here: https://wiki.the-corrado.net/torque_settings_and_bolt_sizes.html

I run 15" OEM Speedlines with 288s with no fouling issues - it's tight, but the tyre shop just used a different profile balance weight and put somewhere else on the rim.

Yeah, the 288s should have a spring clip bonded onto the back of the inner pad that sits into the piston. Are those spacers on there? Just wondring if they coudl be causing an issue with clearance, but unlikely - assuming you are runing 16/17s

Check none of the pistons are seized - the front pads should also have a spring clip with 3 legs attached on the pad facing the piston that sit into the pistion seat itself. Also the calliper sliding pins should move freely, especially on the rears.

Is it just a block of foam shaped lie the first aid kit? Might be interested - thinking of mounting a CD changer in there, so this might be useful....

Ha ha - I have mine at least 8 years I think - got them from ARZ back in the day. My plan was to fit same as yours uing this template as a guide - top shows the US profile and bottom the standard one. Great tip on removing the wiper and using those wires to feed the brake light though. One day hopefully......

US tailgate or did you cut using the template that’s floating around the web? Tempted to start on mine straight away now!

High level light is very nice - I have the parts (light unit, loom and bracket) but haven't gotten around to fitting yet - did you mod the tailgate or by the US version?

I had a JBL GT507C set for a Golf that I used the door and rear speakers from, they came with crossovers and some small tweeters that look like they would fit, but the mounting would need some modding. To be honest, the sound platform there is so poor with the tweeters pointing at the windscreen that it's not really worth it - go for decent components, and put the tweeters in the pillar trim or door and you will find that gives good results.

They are just bog standard fuel pump relays - the VW part number might have changed at this stage, but they are used all over the place and any parts shop should have one. 167 or 67 should do the trick. You'll find the same relay in SEAT, Audi, VW and countless others.

That's a nasty price - but I suppose at least it's still available through official sources. Should also mean that VDO are making them again, and you should be able to get one for less using the VDO part number directly from a motor factors. When I bought mine for new they were less than half that price.

Mmm, juicy shoes - wow, nearly 4000DM, close to two grand's worth. Is that your car - they seem well proud of the wheel arches, are there spacers on?

Sorry, meant to say they are not actually stretched really, that was just me - they are PS3 Michelins, very good, but you do notice the 10mm per wheel believe it or not. I used to use Pirelli P6000/9000 before, but they no longer make them in the size - they were excellent in both the wet and dry.