fendervg

Have never noticed the spring loaded flap before - this is at the back of the top cowling?

Nearly bought a W124 diesel estate at one point - but I would not go near that if the body has not been touched, and it would be hard to make back the money on the engine/mechanicals if you can't see any of it. They are notorious for rust on the chassis as well, so would need a very thorough inspeciton up off the ground. Lovely cars though when all is well. Oh and the engine looms can bio-degrade and need to be replaced, the whole lot. But they are lovely cars when sorted and all is well.

Oh and the battery jackets from VW come in different sizes, depending on the cranking power of the battery - also the Corrado terminals exit towards the bulkhead, not to the front, and there should be a small cut-out on the front bottom for the clamp and bolt that hold the battery in - if the cover is not the right one, this will be on the wrong side. I think Keyp found an eBay seller that was pretty good for battery covers, and gave a few otpions on size and trim - does anyone remember?

Get a cat.

If you take the switch apart, you'll see it's a bog standard incandescent 12v twin filaament bulb, soldered onto the end of the PCB - easy enough to replace with another or an LED with a little bit of soldering know-how. Alternatively, if you decide to source another one second-hand to replace as a whole, make sure you get exactly the same part number as on the one you have, as there are couple of different versions.

Check the FB Corrado groups - one of the guys one there remade the parts on both sides as far as I know - hopefully someone on here has the exact details. The VAG repair kits themselves that come with new cables are no longer available, although they do come up on the secondary market every once in a while.

Looks like a little black suitcase, and is attached to the ISV - back and right of engine when standing in front of the car, but may be hidden by the trim pieces that hold the plug leads. They often leak and can lead to poor idling and stalling. A lot of people delete them.

Fair enough - could be something else then. Where did you install the valve? The usual way would be at the tank lid, on the "out" hose to the engine, and using a circular piece of additional fuel hose to join up with the outlet on the tank lid - the only issues I've seen with it is if that extra hose is not decent enough quality or cracks. I think part of the issue troubleshooting this kind of thing is that there a re quite a few sensors and components that all need to be working 100%, and all the earth points need to be good as well.

Good call - because the pump is in-tank only, it's difficult to hear it priming if it does (the aux water pump will be running as well) - with an underbody pump it's a bit easier. You could also put a tester across the plug terminal in the boot and see if you get current when ignition is switched on. Needs two people really - if you look at the VAG test instructions, they mention using a "remote control unit"!

That's the thing - I was never able to confirm that the pump runs and primes with just the ignition on (which is the way most Mk2s etc. work) - on my car at least I suspected that the pump was only triggered by the ECU relay and started running when the engine was turning and fuel pressure built up during cranking period. But that could be something specific to my car or the result of bad troubleshooting - but it might explain why the "blip" works. This is where we need someone of much missed RW1's calibre, anyone remember him? He knew the car inside out, down to practically every pin in the loom. Well, the Bentley seem definitive for the AAA in that it should run for 1 second with ignition on - but not sure if that applies to the ABV. If you look at the wirin diagrams they are different between UK and US (probably to do with fuel pump safety cut off regulations) and the fuel pump relay only switches current to the pump when it has a signal from ignition live and the ECU.

Welcome - There's info on the wiki about this https://wiki.the-corrado.net/wiring_late_electric_mirror_switches_to_early_loom.html for the mirror switch. Pasted below for reference. Not sure about adapters, you could try sourcing male female equivalents for the existing loom plugs and wire in a small section, or move the pins to the correct connectors or splice. " Wiring Late electric mirror switches to early loom Ok, I've been meaning to put this up for a while but I've been too busy. Andy T e-mailed me to ask for help on this so I figured while I was replying to him I'd copy the reply into here for the benefit of others. What Follows is an extract from the reply I sent him. Anyway, the wiring for the later switches wasn't done by me but a previous owner and the up is dow, down is up, left is right and right is left. I can live with it cause I rarely move my mirrors. Some people have done this using the wiring I tell them and everything works ok so the insides to my switch could be upside down. Ok here goes Early Brown--------------Late Brown and Yellow (3) Early Blue---------------Late Brown (8 ) Early White--------------Late Brown & Black (1) Early Black--------------Late Black and Yellow (5) Early Blue & Red---------Late Grey & Green (2) Early Yellow & Black-----Late Red & Black (7) and White & Black (6) There is one wire which you don't connect but I can't remember if it's on the early or late loom. I think it's blue though. It will be the only one that you have left connnected to anything. Hope this helps matey and let me know how it goes. I cannot take the credit for this as I said the work was done by the previous owner of my car (g60pops I think), all I did was take the doorcard off and look at what he'd done. I hope this is of use to some of you as it has helped a few people in the past. If anyone has any suggestions to improve this, let me know as this is only a quick version of it. Cheers, Graeme Addition by Andy T** Thanks for this Graeme, it worked a treat. The movements are back to front like yours are(no big deal though) I studied the wiring diagram and the only way to correct it is to reverse the polarity at the motors(swop two wires over) it can't be done at the switch. The only connection that isn't used is terminal 4 on the late mirror switch, it's unused even on late cars/looms. Andy T" Hope this helps. The doors will be simpler as the window motor only has two wires going to it and polarity is reversed for up/down.

Hmm - the last starting from warm issue I had was resolved by replacing the distributor (which has the cam sensor attached), will be separate on a coil pack car - this could be heat soakage causing intermittent failure in a a sensor or electronics solder joint due to expansion. In my case the casing around the cam sensor had cracked and the wiring was damaged. These cars drive you nuts......

Cam and crank sensors can cause issues with starting. I don't want to take over the Santa thread ;), but when troubleshooting my VR fuel system, there was no indication that the VR system actually primes with just the key in the first position, so I don't believe they do - there is a reference to it in the Bentley, but that is for US cars and the wiring diagram is different. This from working on only my own car. The fuel pump relay won't switch unless it has a signal from the ECU that the engine is turning, this can be seen on the little wiring diag on the relay, so my guess it means the pump won't run unless the engine is also turning.

The one-way valve on the supply hose from the pump will supposedly stop the residual pressure in the system from dropping too low, hence long cranking as the pressure builds again - I think there is a bit of leak-down over time, so it can help with slow starts, certainly helped on mine with an older pump, but if you have replaced the pump with a new one recently it should not really be needed. I found a thread years ago where this was an actual dealer fix, and there was a picture of the valve fitted.

Ah, that's great to hear and glad it worked out for you after all that painstaking troubleshooting and diagnostics. I think ECU failure is rare, but does happen, especially due to water damage.

It doesn't necessarily mean that your ECU is a total failure, although that is a possibility (they can get damaged by water ingress from the scuttle panel) - it could be a case that the ECU is receiving the proper signal to indicate that the engine is turning and the running - these would be the crankshaft position sensor at the front left of the block, and the hall sender - part of the distributor if fitted, or located to the right of the coil pack on the passenger side of the engine. You could also have some broken wiring somewhere. Do you have access to diagnostic software such as VCDS? This will allow you to interrogate the ECU to see if there are any fault codes and that all the correct signals are present.

That’s pretty much the way I remember it from troubleshooting this before. And to send the signal on pin 85 the ECU needs to see the engine running using the crank sensor and hall sender.

Hi Nick - the forum is subscription only to post now, including for sale. Had to be done to keep the forum running and available unfortunately. Not too expensive, but may not make much sense to you if you no longer have a Corrado. It's good of you to think of the forum, but you'll get a lot more interest on the Corrado groups on FB for a sale like that I'd say - most members here would also be keeping an eye on there. What colour are the seats? Membership Access 15.00 GBP per year Being a subscriber allows you to access the entire forum and make posts / replies. You will also receive some discounts from a variety of providers

You can get it from Ford - check out a parts diagram for a Galaxy VR6, you may even be able to get the whole unit if needed. The PCV valve us nothing special, just some gauze with a flap, if you can get the right size for the hoses, there may even be other ones that will work.

I don't think it's meant to - from what I can see, motive power comes from the flux capacitor in the boot - you just go back in time to before the speed bump or pothole was there.....

Did you try moving the float by hand with the ignition on to see what readings you were getting? I think if you short the wires you should get a full reading. The float senders rarely fail unless the fuel was contaminated or it was left empty for a long time and the tracks have worn or corroded. It could also be the dash voltage regulator on it's way out. The 191 means it's a Golf 2 part, so should be easier to find - if not new, could be had from a breakers or second hand

Can't see any attachment - any more info, or try posting the image again.

Approved and welcome to the forum. Could be that it's running at Stage 3 all the time, in which case your radiator switch might need replacing. Could also be a knackered bearing in the motor or something catching on the fan blades - both of which would need to be checked out fairly quickly as it could be wiring that's getting caught. The best place to start for VR cooling and fan related issues is this thread here: It breaks down how it all works, the different sensors and when they should cut in.

Done now - deleted attachments. For the record, the VR only has the one in tank fuel pump - the 16v and G60 had an in tank lift pump and the main pump mounted underneath the body where the fuel filter is. The ECU relay is #109 and the fuel pump relay #167/67 - look at the side, they will have a diagram showing the wire and terminal connections and how the relay is switched.

I’ll try and remove them. It’s still for sale and copyright unfortunately.