fendervg

Tidied that up.

Get OEM if you can - Meyle, SKF, Lemforder, ATE are all good alternatives. One option would be to get hub carriers second hand, refurbish and powder coat and then fit all new bearing races and bearings and ABS ring etc, ready to fit straight on.

Bosch or VDO/Siemens would be the ones I'd be looking for. You can actually pulse and exercise the ISV using the VCDS diagnostics software while it's still on the car.

I've had a couple of those cup holders over the years - they are great.They shouldn't cost you too much as they were originally made for Passat/T4 van and easily available if you know where to look. There is also a mounting plate the same size as the back of the cup holder that makes it sit about an inch further out and fixes it more securely, with a little dimple for your finger to go in as you flick it open. The grey versions are really rare, but sadly not an exact match for the Corrado platinum interior.

You can buy things called tent stake rubber bungees - essentially a very large hair band - from camping suppliers, should do the job https://www.millets.co.uk/15893172/vango-tent-peg-elastic-15cm-x-5mm-15893172 Having said that, the OEM ones are just large rubber rings - and they were used on lots of different cars so should still be available. The reason they are used is to allow for engine movement when running so as not to stress the solid plastic parts.

You must have an OBD1 2.8 AAA engine? Because all the later 2.8 VR6s I've seen are all OBD2 and don't have an ISV. I think once all the fittings for the vacuum pipes match up, a 2.9 ABV ISV should work fine.

Don't necessarily trust the drawing - the rubber mount (2A in the drawing I think) might be available separately if it is listed with it's own part#. I wasn't aware that RHD window mechs were available again, last I heard they were long NLA, and only the passenger side was available at around €200.

Yeah, checked Aldi web site, but nothing at the moment. I'll pick one up as a spare the next time it comes around based on the goof feedback.

Thanks for the feedback guys - I checked out the CTEK, but they were hard to get locally at a decent price, but look good - in the end I ordered an Optimate 5 (4 amp charging and conditioning/maintenance) with the battery terminal fly leads and extension, so I will let you know how I get on with that. - hopefully I might be able to run the charging socket from the battery down to the passenger tow eye cover...

With the car being used less frequently over lock down and working from home, I'm getting tired of pulling a flat battery every six weeks or so and having to charge it in the house and then put it back in - so I'm looking for something that will let me attach two ring terminals and a socket lead to the battery in the car and then be able to run a lead through the window out to the car where I can hook it up to maintain and charge the battery? I already have a small charger I use indoors, and a larger unit that can be used to jump start the car from the mains. After some quick research, I'm leaning towards one of the Optimate 2/3/4 units, as they seem to come with these kind of leads and have good reviews, but would welcome anyone sharing their experiences and suggestions. Solar is not a runner, but tempting. Many thanks.

Same here - is not possible to get the non-isofix seats any more? We've usually had the isofix in our other "family" car, and normal ones secured by seatbelts in the Corrado - I used to pus a blanket underneath the seat to protect the leather...

I've always managed to get a small bay seat and the next size up in the back no problem when we had two small ones - once you secure with the seatbelt properly, they are as good as isofix, just more of a pain to move them from car to car - Maxi Cosi was the brand, and the baby seat sat perfectly in the bucket seat in the back.

There you go - Corrado maintenance requires patience (and a deep pocket) and all is well in the end - you need to have it as you wait for parts anyway........

I've been there many a time with the VR and other cars - things always work out the next day or so, or at least you can try and figure them out having had some wine, rest and a fresh perspective!

Welcome to the forum - you're in the right place for answers to Corrado queries and there's a wealth of knowledge on here. It's worth checking out the search feature thoroughly, as a lot of stuff has been exhaustively covered already.

You might have an issue because k-jetronic operates at a higher pressure than electronic fuel injeciton systems, generally around 5.5-6 bar (designed for Messerschmidt engines!) as opposed to 2.5-4.5, so you need to make sure that you source the right kind of fuel hose - that's why all the fuel distributor lines are braided.

That's pretty cool in fairness - looks like cat litter they're using. Haha - one hour later, shiny shiny, two hours later - only half a wheel left etc.

Look nicely made - I wonder if they still have the Corrado molds and drawings?

Adjustment is the same process on both - there is actually a VAG tool for holding the shifter end in place during adjustment, but it's not really necessary - the Bentley explains the full setup using the tool, but Kev's method works just as well. with a little bit more trial and error.

That is just the cap for the wiper arm, the nozzle is fixed into the wiper motor spindle and you can adjust the direction of the jet with a small pin. Looks to be a pretty standard part, also used on the T4 van: https://www.justkampers.com/us/3a0955435-rear-wiper-arm-cap-vw-t4-1991-2003.html I'd say try the VAG dealer first as it might still be available, or fleabay.

As above, they are just standard 2-plug ISO connectors - you can pick these up loose wiring tails easily at any motor factors, electronics place or dare I say Halfrauds - you won''t be using all the pins on the red one, but the other one will have 8 pins for your speakers.

This should have all the info. It was the same for Mk2 Golfs and cars of the era that had the same matrix type fitted. This doc has all the instructions and part numbers. I don' t think there should be any gurgling without the valve fitted - that was how the cars would have left the factory anyway - I'd say there might still be some air in the system somewhere, or also it could be the auxiliary electric water pump. recall-matrix.pdf

Is that where the washer jet used to be? Looks like it might have been leaking.........I can't actually remember what was there on my Mk2

Love the early steering wheel!

AFAIK the valve is there to to stop the heater matrix rupturing if there is a cooling issue or overheating, a safety/CYA thing as front passengers would get scalded. If the cooling system is up to scratch and maintaining temperatures within tolerances it won't be strictly necessary. The gurgling sounds like there is still air trapped in the system, so the best way is to make sure that it is bled out when refilling - I tend to refill first, leave the reservoir cap off and start the engine and let it warm up, squeezing the top and bottom rad hoses every once in a while - when the stat opens it will take a big gulp, so you'll need to top up quickly, check the hoses again, then put the cap on, go for a drive, let it settle and top up as needed to get the correct level. The coolant is pressurised when hot, so be very careful when opening the cap - let it sit for a while.