fendervg

What colour? You'll probably end up having to buy a set rather than just the mat, but someone on here may have an old one.

Love the Sebrings. Welcome aboard - in Dublin with a VR6 myself. TBH - the only real Corrado specific issues apart from things peculiar to the different engines are sunroof, rear spoiler and the door handles (oh, and the price of everything!).

Mine is 1993, pearl grey metallic (LA7U) - I believe storm grey is LK7Y and was available in 94/95, but I could be wrong.

Was there a storm grey VR? I know there's definitely a pearl grey metallic as I have one, but thought the storm grey was an early only colour.

Does the float and arm in the tank move freely? For the coolant, I'd check the actual temp in VCDS, or swap over with the blue ECU temp sender in the thermostat housing at the front of the block to check - those sensors are not expensive anyway. It could be a poor earth in the dash wiring - but with a dodgy voltage regulator I'd expect to see other problems such as flickering lights under load etc.

Jim - got mine there this morning - great quality, and the notch for removal is a class touch, as that's how they all break. Kudos for organising this and supplying them, even if you're not still in the fold - your're always welcome back of course!

Sent you a PM there.

Cressa - not sure which one you mean, is it the first or the second photo? The Brembo one is not for sale unfortunately as it will be going on my car (however I sourced it from GSF here in Ireland about 6 months ago, so they might still have some in stock). The first one is - it's an ATE/VW part. Let me know.

I'd say not really needed for a standard 12v engine - I've seen OE clutches with 185k miles on them, and they will all easily go 100+. The stock clutch is a very strong unit and will take plenty of power. Any racing or heavy duty clutches I've driven with haven't felt nice for daily driver duties. I'm sure you get more input on here from others who have tried various options.

I've seen it done, but it looks very messy. The gauges are also angled slightly, so it will never look quite right. The RHD ones are much harder to get hold of, especially considering that every SLC sold in North America had LHD gauges fitted. Best of luck hunting - there was a run of them made in the last few years so you might be lucky and come across a set. I got mine from Arz Tuning in Germany, but that was many moons ago.

Looks tricky - why are you separating them anyway?

Cheers, much appreciated. PM sent.

Hi all - does anyone have a Passat B3/B4 moonrof fitted in their Corrado? I'm particularly interested in how the sliding trim panel on the inside is fitted and works with the existing opening and panel in the headlining. I'm assuming it can be slid back manually when the roof is closed and does not move with the glass panel? Would be great to see some photos if anyone has them. Cheers.

Ah ok. That makes sense. I'd suggest a hairdryer or heat gun and a craft knife. And lots of time.

It's probably still in there, just bypassed because it was faulty. No way you would take one out without replacing it - simply too much work. It could also be that some of the bolts holding it to the bulkhead had seized, so it was left there.

What part are you talking about? The clear panel is held on by two screws as far as I know and then just lifts off, unless you mean something else. A photo would help.

Can be got from VW Classic Parts or Heritage - they have the front splitter you are looking for as well.

Could be the clutch fork as well or a lack of pressure in the slave cylinder.

I guess, as always it's worth what someone is willing to pay for it. If someone buys in or around that ball park it can only be a good thing for the rest of us. I paid strong money for mine back on 2009 but was willing to do so as I knew I was getting a low mileage completely original car.

Yeah, I agree. I've mentioned it to our dealer a couple of times - Classic Parts should really be onto this and the brake master - I think the problem is that they are both RHS specific. I haven't fitted the Brembo one to mine yet - on the long to do list. I willing to sell on the first one with the plastic clip and ball end if it's of any use to anyone on here - but you need to check carefully that it will fit.

Oh, and there's also the line between them - a lot of people replace that with a braided part. The fabric covered one that feeds the master from the reservoir can also get damaged and leak. In most cases what you describe is a classic sign of a failed slave, provided there is no fluid around the pedal and floor inside the cabin at the bulkhead. So I'd say replace that first as it's cheaper and easier to source and less labour to fit. Although inevitably the master will also go eventually so a good idea to do both, but it might buy you some time while you try to source one. There is also a company (past parts I think) that can refurbish your old one if you can wait for the turnaround. They clean it, bore it out, fit a stainless sleeve and new seals and paint it.

Slave is widely available as an ATE part. The master is very hard to find and there are two types, one with a ball joint at the pedal and one with a plastic loop. Brembo make the second type still, and I can get the part number for you. You can fit a later part from VW, but this seems to require changing the pedal and some brackets.

Yeah, it's quite common - if you open it up you'll see that the load/eject mechanism is actually hellishly complicated - lots of little plastic levers, cogs and springs. They just seem to give up the ghost eventually due to old age. Best of luck with your search. Maybe there is a more recent unit that would still look OEM.

Is it a Gamma IV unit? I have one and the load function broke as well. If you can get a spare, you could cannibalise it for parts or just get a working one. Unless you plan on using it to play cassettes or need to demo it at a show I wouldn't worry about. I use an MP3 adapter or a CD changer with it instead. It will be very difficult to find anywhere that repairs tape mechanisms at this stage and it will be difficult to source parts.

The one red ignition lead smacks of penny pinching. If you have one faulty one, why not just replace the lot at the same time with a matching set?