fendervg

Actuators for central locking? You can close your windows by holding the key turned in the lock.

No worries - I bled my whole system including brake callipers, ABS pump and clutch using the Sealey VS820 mentioned above without any issues at all. Never had much luck with an Eezzibleed.

Lol: - that's what I get for multitasking. The clutch is fed by the brake fluid reservoir via a hose, so it's actually the same system. Other cars have a separate clutch fluid reservoir.

Could well be the master. I haven't checked recently but I seem to remember you can bleed both, but could be wrong. Also check the return spring and that it's not catching anywhere. The problem with brakes, like the cooling systems, is that they are sealed systems - from hard experience I have found that renewing just one component in the circuit will put an undue strain on the rest of the 20 year old system and inevitably something else will give as the system is now back to it's operating pressure. Once you mess with any one part, you need to be extremely careful. Just my two cents - but hope you find an easier solution. EDIT - I use one of these - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS820-Clutch-Bleeding-System-x/dp/B000ROARTI - much better than hooking up to a tyre.

In fairness I would say that most breakers I've seen either have perished ones or they are missing. I had 3 missing off my own car. It's not that expensive for what it is. You can always go through VW Heritage and wait till you have a large order to get free shipping. As an aside, any VW dealer should be able to order from Classic Parts over the dealer network, they just don't all seem, or in some cases, want to know about it. At least that's what I heard from one source. ETKA even now has a link to classic parts in it - unless this policy has recently changed.

Oh well - did you try VW Classic Parts? There might also still be some in stock elsewhere on the dealer network. Or maybe get some off a breaker.

These are available from the dealers - I presume you mean the little rubber grommets that the tabs on the grille sit into. I got a few about a year ago.

That's the way over here as well.

Will also be noisier when you have a metal rocker cover versus the plastic one.

Just be extremely careful with the screw trim covers in the bottom corners if you still have them - prise them off very gently, or I've even used a bit of blu-tack to lift them. They break very easily or go missing.

It's on Classic Parts and available through VW Heritage - but then the passenger side won't have been used that often compared to the driver's side, hence the relative scarcity of driver's side mechanisms. They even carry a premium on eBay. I haven't looked at it yet to see if you can swap the parts around, but it could be an interesting option.

Should be fine as long as you run the matching fuel pressure regulator for the pump. I'd say you can even run the 2.9 on a 3 bar pump if you have 3 bar FPR - it's not that much of a difference in displacement after all.

Checked with Vince at Stealth and a few other sources - 2.9 ABV engined cars run 4 bar pumps and will run at 3.5 bar with engine running, and 4 bar with the FPR hose disconnected. 2.8 AAA engines and the other Corrado's run on 3 bar pumps and FPRs. More on this later.

Good idea - the more demand there is the better the chance of NLA parts being re-manufactured. Although sometimes I suspect that in many cases the VW Classic Parts stock is simply old unsold line items being returned from the dealer network and when they're gone they're gone. where do you work?

@Thursdave - Cheers - missed that one. Too many part numbers flying around at the moment!

Damn - I have plenty more so will resend in a jiffy envelope when I get a chance to pick one up - no worries. Will just take a bit longer. Maybe there was a VW enthusiast at the sorting office who needed one!

This will be some beast when finished! Great work and keep going- it will be worth it in the end. I'll be racking your brains whenever I get around to doing my injectors.

Looks painted. By a four year old!

Apologies - you can get the silver ones easily enough - but they do go for ridiculous prices sometimes. The red ones (like I have on my 93 VR) are like rocking horse poo. There was talk on here about re-manufacturing a batch of the VR6 front ones, but the finish and clips were proving difficult to replicate and these things take time. I hate badge thieves!

Also available new - I got some from a German VAG dealer last year when I ordered a new grille from Classic Parts: 3A0853600EPG - Front VW Badge - 26,24 EUR 357121140 - Badge backing plate - 4,19 EUR They are not Corrado specific, so should be available through the dealer, but I'm not sure if the different grille (mine is a 3 slat one) take different badge sizes. Maybe someone else can confirm.

Anyone have these? The part# is N90401701. Thanks.

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Corrado-Genuine-VW-Rear-Trunk-Boot-Badge-Emblem-OEM-/181707682406?hash=item2a4e9f3266 The part number you need is 357853601B041

Right - more news. Wiring to the hall sensor was fine, but it proved impossible to test the sensor itself with a diode, as you need to supply 12V reference to it and the connector is too small to get three crocodile clips into. It's also in the worst possible place, on the far side of the distributor as you are facing it. It turns out VW have a special test harness that they use for this. I'm definitely going to replace the distributor as a precaution, and a new one comes complete with rotor arm and cap. The Bosch part# for the distributor complete unit is 0986237642, if anyone is looking and can be had for anywhere between €280-420 on an exchange basis with your old one. It's also very straightforward to take out and put back in. I also disconnected all the sensor wiring and reconnected it - MAF, idle stabilisation valve, temp sensors etc. during testing. I then put in my old crank position sensor, which was the original VW one that came with the car instead of the spurious replacement part encased in black plastic that I had bought second hand. I did some testing on these - the official tolerances are: 480-1000 ohms between pins 1 and 2. The VW one measured 590 and the other one 900, so both within limits, although in theory the second one should have been better. i have a new VW one coming anyway. After putting it all back together, it ran on idle for an hour without cutting out, and I also did a 30 minute test drive when warm, and no problems! So either I had a loose connector or the crank sensor was at fault. More driving will prove the point I suppose. I think the broken hall sensor casing will cause problems eventually and may be malfunctioning when the engine temperature rises. It's easy to forget how really hot the VR engine bay gets. Good info on hall senders in general can be found here: http://www.wellsve.com/sft503/Counterpoint3_1.pdf Apparently the magnets used in them will lose their effectiveness over time, and I didn't realise that the crank position sensor is really a hall sender as well. I'll let you know how I get on - I'll also set up a thread collecting all the info I have dug up on VR6 2.9 ABV fuel pressure and pumps and the replacement options, as it's really confusing.

On a more serious note, could there be an undiscovered stash of late Corrado wings somewhere in South America?

Ariba, Ariba!