tony_ack

VT front mount is absolutely worth it. Vibration is really minimal and shouldn't cause many, if any, more rattles than you have now. In return you get a much tighter front end. I've kept the others standard.

I had to go with these through my insurance and they were actually really impressive. They were knowledgeable, didn't talk bull**** and kept me informed all the way through (rang me about the glued down scuttle and a-pillar rust). They went through in some detail what they'd done when I picked the car up, and had even took a pic of the pillar rust before they treated it (and they didn't try to claim the repair was final - they even offered to leave the screen out if I wanted to take it to a body shop first which unfortunately I couldn't do). They also fitted an OEM Saint Gobain/Sekurit screen with new trims. I really had reservations about going with a company through the insurance, but they were fantasitc in the end.

If you thought a 16v burnt a hole in your pocket...

Yep, I got it specifically because it fits in the back of the Corrado.

Britax Evolva 1-2-3 is a good fit too, and should last you for years

I can't honestly see prices ever getting too high - it's not got the retro kitsch appeal of the MK1 or MK2 Golf immediately before it, and it is average against the more plentiful cars a little newer than it (R32, Civic Type R, Impreza/Evo, MK1 Focus RS). It's got a special place in the hearts of the people who have owned one or always wanted one, but sadly most people don't really know what one is.

It's hard to say with the pipework - it'd be worth seeing what fits from the MK3 and then going to Piritek for the rest. Bear in mind you'll also need a drier and pressure switch in line (or I think one of the MK3 items has the pressure switch housed in the drier). Either way it's recommended that you buy a new drier and don't reuse the old one. The MK3 VR6 condenser fits perfectly on the Corrado rad and the brackets line up, but the bottom pipe fouls the VR6 subframe. No idea on the TDI, but could be worth lining them up to see where you're at. I'm still at an impasse with the condenser on mine - I am probably going to have to make up my own brackets and get a generic one that fits. There is a 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder compressor on the MK3/B4 Passat/Corrado but I don't know what the difference is. Possibly the pulleys? Your biggest headache is going to be the wiring - I worked out the pinouts for a standard VR6 with a late fan controller, but if you've ditched the VR fan controller, you're going to have to work it all out again, and also work out the wiring to the ECU (the last bit should be easy - it's just a signal to increase the revs when A/C is activated). I made some notes from my install here: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=53635&p=733298&viewfull=1#post733298 I've always meant to tidy the notes up at some point, but hopefully it'll give an indication of the work involved.

Not a great deal but there is some 'tailoring' involved - mainly on the heaterbox itself. The main bits of work on the car/dash are cutting into the bulkhead for the A/C pipes, and shorterning the glovebox/lower dash tray, which you'd have to do whatever A/C system you fit. I don't think I did any cutting to the dash itself, and the climatronic controls are a perfect fit into the centre console. It's not an easy install by any means, but well worth the extra effort.

I'd say you'd be far better off keeping the R32 engine-side stuff (if it fits), and fitting the MK4 climatronic heaterbox and controls. I'm not really sure there's much, if anything, that you'd be able to use from the MK3 TDI setup.

There's a Delorean near me too, surely not as rare as people think??

From what I recall, it wasn't difficult to get the hoses and I just used the standard ones (Standard depending on what car they came from). I had a MK3 setup so I used the standard MK3 288mm hoses for a banjo connection. If you have a banjo connection, also invest at least in new washers. If you're going for braided, you'll need to get the late MK3 GTI/VR6 front hoses and the Corrado/MK2 back hoses (assuming you have kept the Corrado calipers)

When you say the coilovers have their own plate in the top of the spring, do you mean something in addition to the top spring plate? I think a pic of the top of the coilover will help. On a standard setup, the early top mounts (with the metal plate and integrated bearing) still go onto the top of the spring plate on the strut. Later VR top mounts don't have the built in plate, but the later top spring plate is a different shape. I know some people mix and match early spring plates with late top mounts, and vice versa but personally I've had no end of problems (crushed bearings/uneven height from L to R/creaking) until I matched the early plate on that fits my H&R springs to the early top mounts. I'd say whatever shape the top of your coilover is designed to fit, they are the top mounts you should use.

Damn, why do these things come up so far from pay day? Do you have the front headlining trim in beige - the bit that runs along the windscreen?

Gets much easier with practice. It sounds like your Corrado has been kind to you if you haven't had the wheels off that much!

Busy day ahead

Yep, you can check the bores to see what sort of condition the bottom end is in. Lip - if there is a noticable lip then you should re-bore if you want to keep your current block, and this may mean needing oversize pistons Glaze - check the bores and see how shiny they are. If there are no hone marks, then you could do with re-honing the bores. You should be able to rebuild the block with the original pistons, assuming they're not pitted. Whether you need a re-hone or not, it makes sense to fit new piston rings while the engine is stripped down. I've heard that 2.9 engines can ovalise bores 1 and 6, but I'm not sure how you'd check for that, or whether that would be visible. It'd make sense to replace the bottom end bearings too, and possibly the oil pump if it's never been done and you're planning to do another 200000 miles.

Ebay On here (parts for sale and breakers) VW VW Classic parts GSF/ECP for common components/service parts if you don't want to use the main dealers VWspares.co.uk Something like a bonnet cable would either be new from VW or second hand. There isn't a huge after-market parts supply except for components that were shared across other cars (specifically MK2/MK3 Golf)

Yep, all three coolant temp senders on the side of the head are the same rating - one is for the dash gauge, two are for the idle valve/WUR I think? You can swap them over without issue, and it will also help you to identify the duff senders. While you're at it, check all the wiring from the temp senders to the idle valve and themotime switch - it gets very brittle after 20+ years and can cause no end of starting problems.

A faulty thermotime switch/5th injector usually causes problems on initial cold starting - after this the thermotime switch should close the 5th injector. The cold start valve (controlled by the thermotime switch) is only there to provide additional fuel into the injector rail on initial cranking when cold and the first 5 seconds of running. After this, the flow to the injectors is enriched until the engine is up to temp - either using the WUR on the 1.8 or the ECU on a 2.0. So if the rough running is longer than this, then the problem could be elsewhere. The only other problems with the cold start valve is if it is leaking, when it can cause problems and overfuelling when up to temp. If you're getting problems longer than this, it may be worth checking the ECU temp sensor (I think the 2l has one?). Note you should be able to check the temp sender and thermotime switch by checking the resistance across the terminals (though I don't know which pins or what the reading should be at ambient temp on a cold engine - sorry!)

Bump

It has probably got a battery backup in the siren (though if it's on the original battery, then it's probably not going to last long). It might be okay if you disconnect the siren while the alarm is disarmed, but it depends on the model. Some older models have a lock switch in the siren box to switch between normal and garage modes.

ABS pedal position sensor, part no 357927810 Working as far as I'm aware, this was bought from VW a few years ago and run for a few thousand miles before I bought it off Purple Tom on here. I never fitted it as I managed to resolve the ABS problems. Looking for £27 posted.

There's only one fusebox, I think the fuse that controls all of those is the second one in from the pillar.

1.8 GTI 8v, Tornado red, more door, 1992 Runout model with the following extras: Rainbow interior PAS Front electric windows BBS RA alloys Hella smoked rear lights No tax or MOT 217000 miles Good Points: Recent respray by a previous owner in the original colour. Colour is really deep, no fading at all. Looks like the 3rd wiper hole was sealed and welded and the fuel filler surround was replaced as there is no rot in either of these places. Pretty standard apart from K&N panel filter Alloys look like they've been recently refurbed and are in very good condition, with locking wheel blots Good tyres all round - Fronts are recently replaced Pirelli P6 Cintaros, rears are Toyo PX4s Laserline Cat 1 Alarm/immboilser with certificate Two fobs and sets of keys Rainbow interior is mint - it looks like the driver's bolsters have been recently replaced as the cloth is good and the bolsters are firm. Headliner is pert. All trim including badges is present Bad points -Battery tray is rotten - may need to be replaced for MOT, or at you'll at least need to find a way to secure the battery -There was some welding on one of the front jacking points for the last MOT -Some rust on the driver's front chassis leg -A couple of rust spots around the car Minor Laquer peel on the rear quarter Dent in bonnet (should pull out easily as it's shallow and not on a swage line) Engine is now on 217000 miles and is burning a little oil. I did a compresion test which came out at 10.5 bar dry, 13 bar wet, so I suspect it's the rings (10 bar is min normal tolerance) Due a cambelt (genuine VW cambelt I can include). Washer motor doesn't work (may need to replace for MOT) Recent work: Replaced PAS and Alternator belts New front tyres Engine timing/CO set New VW thermostat Replaced oil cooler and flushed cooling system Up for £600 I also have a 2 litre 2e bottom end that I can include for free, at the asking price, however it has been sat (inside) for some time so I need to check the condition of the bores. Or I can sell separately for £50. Collect from S10 http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/IMAG0344.jpg[/img] http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/IMAG0343-1.jpg[/img] http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/IMAG0345.jpg[/img] http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/20130609_103641_zpsde97b02a.jpg[/img] http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/20130609_103532_zps0557a5fa.jpg[/img] http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/20130609_103505_zps0ddf227d.jpg[/img] http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/20130609_103456_zpsd0e9460b.jpg[/img] http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww165/tony_ack/IMAG0501.jpg[/img]

Wonder how many screws will be left over when you put it back together...?!