mimjed

To be fair if you read his post he answers his own question, adapters. The facr that they cost a few quid is putting him off. Sell the wheels and buy sone that fit is the simple answer im pointing at.

think they are more fond of crushing them now. rules changed a couple of years ago.

half joke half truth. just my sense of humour really. its not like the subject hasnt been covered before.

Just stop being a clown and buy wheels that fit.

not sure as its something i havnt changed, but would assume it to be some sort of cage nut so it cant fook off (if it doesnt screw into the pillar that is) do you not own a magnet on the end of a rod (dont know the real name for this tool, magnetic rod maybe :lol: )? stick it behind when you unscrew the pin and fingers crossed. free bump as someone else may be more helpful.

yep pre booked mot applies when there is no tax

diesel works incredibly well for seized threads, bit of heat first and then give it a little soak. should come off with a couple of thumps from a hammer then.

provided your insurance is on the database and it has a valid mot you can do it instantly. just print off the reciept when you pay for the tax and then you can drive it. no marks against your car for being sorn as far as im aware. mine was sorned last winter and all was good.

Remote central? Mine is done through the alarm/immob (best route in my opinion). Or you can buy universal kits to fit yourself. Unsure of quality or how reliable on these though.

I own a g60 and a box of matches, but somehow the car has not caught fire yet. I can drink an unusually large amount of alchohol, and because of this many people believe i am an alchoholic. But i dont drink very often because two day hangovers suck. Im going to work in east germany in a few weeks on an all expensises paid trip, which conviently includes a weekend in prague

Quality is fair for price paid really. Excellent customer service, pretty helpful on random questions too. Id use them again.

I dont run a boost return. But just a bit of pipe to run the oil off nehind the gearbox is fine. Hose pipe will do the job fine.

pretty much yes. but you dont need exhaust pipe or a new filter. i just used some flexi plastic hose from the original air box to the intcooler pipe (with some cut up tights for a bit of extra protection) have to block off the oil feeds for the charger, and run a smaller fan belt. the ecu will work out the rest in terms of running. glad you got it sorted.

The vac hose from mani to ecu plugs into it. Open ecu and you cant miss it. Could well be worth plugging in another ecu for elimination purposes. So the papping noise comes from behind you? Have you checked fuel pump and fuel lines?

where does the papping noise come from? any chance of a vid of it doing it? have you had a look at the vac pipe inside the ecu to the map sensor?

its worth opening the ecu while you are there too, there are two small screws that hold one of the circuit boards in place and sometimes they go walkabouts causing a poor connection with vibration. ecu relays and ignition swithches are indeed a common fault. they werent trying to fleece you.

i recently changed my ignition switch and ecu relay. although its recommended to remove the seat to do the switch its really not needed. just shove it all the way back then recline all the way back and lie on it. a bent pozi screwdriver is the tool for the job. worth checking connection to the ecu aswell as this was seemingly the problem on mine. if you turn the ignition on and plug a relay back in you will hear it clicking when it pulls in to earth (good sign its working as it should be). worth checking on the fuel pump relay as they are about £35 now i think.

:lol: think the japs solved the basic principal with the vtech system. its crap without a charger though, i estimate it to be about 75 ponies :(

Gwerks, have to pay the name tax but at least i can be pretty confident with the work carried out. 41mpg on the way to work this morning!

to be fair id try somewhere like earls for a full flexi kit. should imagine it will save a good few pennies over goodridge.

charger sent off today. running suprisingly smooth without it to be honest. only doing work and back in it as im not convinced its the healthiest option running without. but for future reference to run a g60 without a charger a 6 rib 1275mm belt does the job fine. common belt so easy to get hold of. ptfe tape and m8/m10 bolt plus washers/nuts for blanking off oil feed pipes too. or if youre feeling clever you could drill and tap an aluminium block to match the banjo bolts and keep the flow going - not really needed though.

this is why they took ash trays off the bar. cheers mate - smash.

What size belt to run without charger then? I thought it was 1500 but the gimp at the shop assured me it was 1663 which turns out is the size to run with charger. Doh

Well its the charger, bearing gone as i thought. Just pulled it out but wouldnt mind a nosey before i send it off. Any tips on cracking it open?

took fan belt off and charger feels smooth. thank fook. water pump not feeling so good though, rough and not so easy to turn. any other ways to check the health of it? cant see any missing bolts etc though. cheers for replies.