volksworld13

sure sounds like a date :luvlove: :lol:

of course you will see it, i hope to take it to bristol volks fest next yr, but it should be running well before then, just wanna iron out all the creases when its on the road, and find what niggling problems i will have running wise.! need to order some parts to list new clutch new cam cover gasket new cambelt and tensioner oil filter and plugs. water pump im just gunna replace what parts need general maintenance and replacment, just to be sure in my mind , it wont let me down .clean it all up, i think i will have it all up and running b4 christmas , fingers crossed, money and time permiting.

today the 108k powerplant arrived, this will be the heart and lungs of the lemon, she will breath again!! :D :luvlove:CIMG0463.JPG[/attachment:1rpky7ix]

was the filter genuine? ive heard stories of aftermarket fuel filter causing running issues, but i suppose if it was like this prior to replacing the filter, then thats unlikely the problem

try gsf, they gave me a good price on my 2.0 8v alternator.

rust free slam panel ready for fitment , 108k motor arriving in 48hrs , will be cleaned parts renewed and fitted, could be running earlier than antisipated!! :D :DCIMG0437.JPG[/attachment:15z1ixqj]

nothing beats the look and smell of fresh paint when you pick the car up from the body shop.

just a thought,dont wanna make myslef look stupid,and i havent read the whole post or anything, but have you replaced the fuel filter, a blocked fuel filter would def cause a non start condition,

yeah as soon as i saw it advertised, i rung the chap up, and told him consider it sold, without even looking at it, i new i just had to buy it, the leather was one of the deal breakers, and the colour.!

the pipes are just pushed into the clips, but be carefull when removing them, they can pinch/cut the pipe if your a bit rough so, you a trim tool or a blunt object and prizze the plastic bits out, and that will release the pipe from the clip, the clips are screwed onto threaded pins, just undo them normally by twisting them out, just screw the new one on, and pushed the pipes bk in.

i will bare that in mind jud.! :shock: :shock: too many nuggets get spoiled with too many mods, god i must be getting old!! :camp: :camp:

the schrick manifold is now installed and working nicely, def feel more pull lower down the rev range. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfCIMG0434.JPG[/attachment:3xeql0br] new bbs center caps, and wheel bolt caps, make a world of difference to the look :grin Corrado92.pdfCIMG0422.JPG[/attachment:3xeql0br] floor pan cleaned, new fuel pipe clip retainers,new short fuel line,tank to filter as it was heavily corroded.passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfCIMG0425.JPG[/attachment:3xeql0br]

few more pics

yes , im not going to be modifying this at all.oem all the way, i would like to eventually replace the exhaust with a standard one if vw still make them,and sell the stainless one.

sure, it will be a nice motor once the engine is in , and road worthy again.

interior is in great shape, the leather is good, and hardly any wear on the drivers seat back, and bolster. brand new genuine early gearknob and leather hand brake handle,$$$£££

[strike:e5m5xn04]ive made a tough choice to let my nugget 16v with leather up for sale.it kills me to let this go.but a car has come up at work, which would be silly not to buy. i may have a friend that is interested, but just trying to guage interest, the car is complete, i have a new engine to go in it, which i have spent a small fortune rebuilding, read this thread to see what has been done.i want this car to stay amongst the corrado community and get put back on the road, where she should be, with some work, this would make a lovely example. included in the sale, nugget valver with leather 130k no tax no mot spare engine ready to be installed 107k , new headgaket , head skimmed, cam chain also looks new, cam cover gasket water pump, cambelt,tensioner, new rear main seal.all gaskets and seals paid 300 quid on parts alone, rebuilding the engine.[/strike:e5m5xn04] [strike:e5m5xn04]this would be bought as a project there is a couple of bits of rust that need treating, at the rear arched and battery tray, i have a spare battery tray and will be included, and also a great rad support ready for powder coating,which will be included viewing recommended[/strike:e5m5xn04] [strike:e5m5xn04]please contact through the thread,and i will get back to you if your serious the car does not drive due to big end faliure. will need low loadering or towing[/strike:e5m5xn04] [strike:e5m5xn04]im after £1200 quid , i only want what i paid for it back. so im not making anything. it makes me sad , but the car has to go.[/strike:e5m5xn04] [strike:e5m5xn04]ps mods do i move to the for sale thread, ?[/strike:e5m5xn04] change of plan shes staying in the family, dads the new owner and will install the engine with my help. nugget yellow 1.8 16v 120k on the clock, in need of some TLC as some of you were aware i picked up a 1990 1.816v nugget about a month or so ago, non runner, traced the fault to big end bearings gon, swarf city in the engine oil. so decided to pick up another engine, i ideally didnt want to do this, as i wanted it as much orginal as possible, found an engine with 108k on the clock, just had a new cambelt and headgasket. since ive had it, aftermarket alarm and immobiliser came straight out of it, replaced 2 switch blanks as they had been drilled, new gear knob, new leather handbrake handle and sleeve, new passenger wing , bought from a breaker, still has the pink back order sticker on the back, so must of been replaced before it went obsolete, in the same colour,also got a new slam panel, as this was quite rusty.still not fitted this yet. the car has done 120k and has been sat for 4 years, needs some welding doing around the bottom of arches , and a small patch in the battery tray, other than that body work is sound, will need new brakes and pipes all round, nice project to chuck money at , as im aware these are quite hard to find in nugget yellow. some pics ,to follow and will keep updating wen i get some time.

that looks like the front of a fighter jet, gotta love the audi designers!

i had some old invoices ,with my old kr alternator playing up, a local alt and starter specialist , rebuilt it for not that much money, replaced diodes,bearing, brushes. thats all that go wrong really. try and find a place that will recondition your old unit, you maybe suprised how cheap it may be.

can you get a family member to run every 2 weeks, 1month,just to keep the oil circulating and fuel flowing without going stale? ideally if your leaving it along time i.e years without use, fuel needs to be drained and put on blocks, to prevent tyres from forming flat spot/perishing, be better if someone could give it a run every onw and then.to get it up to temp.

if your radiator is partially blocked, up not circulating well, the the rad switch will not get hot enough to actuate the fan. have you evere flushed and cleaned your cooling system since you have owned it? if you bridge the terminals on the switch and low, high will work when correctly bridged, it can only be a duff switch or its not getting hot enough.

check the airbox area, for debris or anything blocking it, it maybe worth taking the airbox apart and checking the filter is ok, or any bits of broken plastic ect, that could restrict air flow, how bad was the fornt end? what got damaged and what was replaced?

as promised, will be on the case, wen my ankle heals up.

no probs ,glad you sorted that , a garage would of robbed you to look at that fault.nice one! :D

the sill trims, just pull off, or using a trim trim tool, the rear qauter panel are screw at the bottom, and back, and are held in by retaining clips, but before you do this, inspect the wiring underneith the foortwell, where the brake light switch is, check its not chaffed around that area, and follow the wiring back.