nrc

For info, from a scrappy I got a 120A unit from a Golf VR6. Straight swap for the 70A I had which probably should have been a 90A since I've got a dealer-fitted A/C setup - but you never know what those dealers were up to!

Can anyone tell me the dimensions of the bleed screw for the brake master cylinder (early VR)? I think it's either 6 or 7mm diameter but I've no idea about the length. Ta, Neil.

I find the gentle application of a pipe wrench does the trick :)

The whole sunroof cassette is held in place with 8 (or was it 10?) screws which are easily accessible when the headlining is out of the way. Remove the visors, sunroof controls and surround, disconnect and unscrew the motor. If you're careful you can get away without removing any pillar trim.

The crank needs to be at TDC before the cams are clamped down and then they can be turned a small amount individually with a large spanner using the flats on the shafts. A bit of metal or plastic is used to lock them in place while the chain is laid over the sprockets. This avoids the messy business of valves hitting the piston crowns! The chain replacement guide in the wiki has a lot more information.

Looks fine to me. The pictures show the cams set a few degrees off TDC but your mechanic will rotate them slightly and lock them into place when the chain is refitted.

Can you prise the blade terminals out of the connector with a miniature screwdriver? If they'll come out it won't be too tricky to cut back the broken wires and replace with new terminals.

I'd definitely be up for one too! (A BMC bracket, that is )

Assuming I'm reading this VOSA document correctly, Corrado VR6s first used (registered?) after 01/08/1992 are subject to these limits: 0.5% CO at idle, 200 PPM HC at 2500-2800rpm Given Kev's figures in the older thread it might not pass after all :)

Surely can't be worse than my van and even that can get within limits for more modern vehicles!

I asked this of the garage that does my tests. They're happy to put it through the test without the cat but it still has to pass the same emissions limits. It was running very clean at the last test so I'm interested to see how it goes minus the cat.

I'm not sure about the ISV control but do you possibly have any leaks in the air intake after the MAF, e.g. the breather hose? Any fault codes logged for mixture adaptation limits exceeded?

Heh, they're surprisingly well hidden by looms and coolant hoses!

Another fun fact: old 1p coins (pre-1992) are not magnetic, new ones are.

By now you've probably connected the brake servo vacuum hose to the right-hand side of the manifold near the front. Follow this around from the manifold a few inches and you'll find a plastic junction piece in line with the hose with 2 vacuum hose take-off points on it. Remove (gently, they snap easily!) the cap from one and use that for connecting the Schrick.

Mine has never returned since I've owned the car (standard wheel). I like it that way

Filling from the expansion tank alone will take a while as the thermostat will be closed so you could stick some in the top of the rad as well (being careful not to crack the plastic when you take off the hose). I used two bottles of G12++ and one of Water Wetter, so pretty much 60/40 as Mark said. Other stuff you could do is replace the thermostat or rad fan switch if you suspect there's a problem. If you're feeling brave you could even inspect the fins on the main coolant pump in the block! Bit of a pain though as it will foul on the bodywork unless the engine is lifted a few inches.

Can't speak for their chains but I've had a bit of Topran gear from tierod69 on ebay and it seems to be decent enough quality. If you're after Febi chains try VWSpares.

The coolant gauge is controlled by the yellow temperature sender in the thermostat housing. Try removing the connector and giving both it and the sender a blast with WD40, see if that helps.

You can unscrew the fan assembly and slide it out without removing the bumper or slam panel. If you're lucky the noise might be down to a bit of old loom tape flapping against the fan blades.

Ooh, saw one of these in reflex silver at the Dubfreeze show and shine last year. I'm liking the R36 detail on your seats!

One for me, please.

Can get you some cheap if you want

Is the new thermostat housing a genuine one? The one I got (Topran I think) didn't fit together perfectly so I stuck some ThreeBond around the edges and haven't seen a drip since.

Hmm, my battery's 4-ish years old and has been deeply discharged on several occasions so isn't in top condition yet will still crank the engine after two or three weeks of standing. While this might be fairly common it's probably not inevitable. An ammeter you can stick in the fusebox can help narrow down the source of the drain. You can get one from Maplin.