aide

not any more - cheesy's got it for sale on here..... oh to have £1350 spare :(

why can't you get a new bottom end and then sell it on, or do you want profit?

ace - i was all ready to buy a new pump as mine whines too, will try the fluid first.

I've never cleaned my injectors! Either get a new set £20ea - or get a specialist to check em out, Bosch centres do this. Gotta consider the injectors are the last thing in line from tank - lift pump - regular pump(battery) - filter - metering head - injectors so could be one of the others causing dodgy fuel delivery. Of course there's a quick method of testing the injectors with a jam jar! Obviously pull one out at a time, put em in jam jar for fixed amount of time and see they all fill with equal amounts. Never done this myself tho.

Fold your back seats down and drive - you might determine noise is actually coming from rear not front. I did this and found out the rusted edge of the rear discs were rubbing against the caliper, i just filed them off and hey presto

GPC car parts do em gpcvwaudi.com :D

LOL - i did this too - but i am a cheapskate :lol:

Hemz - the injectors on a valver just pull out.... but don't be shy as they need a bit of force to get them out. It's possible it's your injectors, as they're mechanical their machining tolerances are extremely high and they never normally get changed. Also worth considering is your fuel lift and regular pump, fuel in a 16v is under massive pressure so it can force its way through the mechanical injectors. When you turn ignition on you should hear a 3 second buzz which is the lift pump priming, when you actually start you should then hear the whine of the regular fuel pump delivering, make sure your fuel filter is new too - can make a surprising difference, and don't put that "clean your injector goup" in your tank either, don't suppose you've let ther tank run really low recently have you? you might have dredged up crap from bottom which is now stuick in your filter. Timing on a valver is preset in the control unit, there is a procedure for 'resetting' this which i can get you later if you want. O' and welcome to the world of getting a 16v to idle properly :D

:new-bday: another year wiser :wink:

Joby - stealth have stopped doing the conversion as far as i know - well thats what they told me a year ago anyway!

aye they're nice for sure, but me thinks i'd like one of these http://www.bullz-eye.com/carreviews/200 ... review.htm 8.0-liter, 16-cylinder engine, four sequential turbochargers. Torque comes in at 1250 N-m :shock:

yeh your best having a look at it closer as there's a lot that can become loose this might sound stupid but have you checked it's not just something bouncing around in the channel below the windscreen, I had something similar once.

:scratch: dunno.... not much help am I :lol:

which is fella a rattle or vibration!? If a rattle could be resonance causing wam air feed metal thing to rattle! it's fixed by a coupe of bolts to the manifold which could be loose - hard to tell as inlet manifold obscures view... as you say could be heatshild which clips on at back.

Blackberry J reg in Exeter college construction skills building on Sowton estate, left before i had a chance to see it close up DTM tails, sounded meaty

Accepts standard 1" for towing generator cart for extended range i'll take two :lol:

yepo boring out is quickest way to mess your water jacket up, i'll get a block as makers intended...

might just get the KR boned out ! lets not do the whole 9a/ ABF/ KR cylinder head differences/ which is better - i'll get confused :lol:

good figures - i'll probably be going for the abf block myself with longer con rods for better torque but lower reving.. if i can find a reasonable one! assume 6a is short block

Borat - see if you have any movement in your wheel when you got it raised, if not give it a spin and make sure it's not just the rusted edge of your disc rubbing on the caliper. Rado is finally of road next monday for works to begin, will be grinding the disc off if necessary :D

yeh it's difficult to get a proper polished finish in the upper section, having problems getting a nice finish around the equalizing tube on bottom section too. as you say think general rule is smooth in the inlet and mirror finish in chamber and outlet. Any idea of torque figures your getting with your setup David?

defo depends on driving style, i've polished the 42mm one and intend to swap them back over with polished head - am tired of thashing it everywhere, but is a nice kick with larger manifold

Agree with above, a mechanic working for a dealer is just a mechanic working for a garage.... a mechanic working for a specialist is doing it for a reason

create a supercharged valver find some traffic lights

only the g60 has the nut on the bottom, 16v is just a smooth one i use one of those filter removal straps, which grip and crush without demolishing the filter - better if you put it near the end of filter when doing it.. have stabbed em with a screwdriver before tho