aide

I went from a set of Yoko's to a set of F1's and I *personally* found the difference incredible, I'm swinging into corners with double the confidence I had before, quiet too.

Yep as flusted says for best results you need to consider entire induction and exhaust tract, key is too maximise gas speeds which 4 branch promotes.

bigpairofhairybollocks :?:

As the guys have said above, one of the low pressure senders *should* be on top of the filter housing, it has a yellow sender wire which if disconnected triggers the alarm/ led. As henny says, it looks like your sensors are wired to the wrong position! But worth checking the 3 sensors located around the water cykinder head water outlet. I'd get the wiring diagram out and start checking wiring thickness and colour too.

Absolute mint nougat yellow corrado parked on approach road to Widemouth bay in Cornwall. It was debadged, and couldn't tell from brief look what it was - from fogs and indicators looked early model tho. Reg starts CPR, got leather upholstery, 17's i think and very well looked after. Got CCGB holder, looked identical to nougat yellow rado featured in CCGB mag few years ago - must be someone off here???? Come on give me my first spot. :D

110 seems highish generally, but defo high at 120 :? both valvers i've had sit at 96 - 102 normal and 102 - 106 caning it on warm days sorry if that worries ya :D

mine too, had em put on four weeks ago and difference to yoko's i had on before is fantastic - like glue in the bends. highly recommended, mine cost £50 corner.

only one as far as i know, besides the potentiometer (spelling) for switching ISV on, dunno if 2ltr 16v is different though :?: think throttle cable is fairly easy, but you'll have to remove covers below dash - don't loose the screws :D

very true, this is happening most times mine is left in sun

Switch relay to starter motor, or simply faulty starter motor (how'd you know it's good nick?).... have you tried giving the starter motor a bit of a 'tap' before (or get someone else to do it whilst trying ignition) bit basic but some starters seem to respond to a bit of violence :D when you have started it, have you tried turning ignition to starter position then?

i work with some engineers based in pynes hill, work down near sowton myself, though am out on site a lot. am just geting into this modding business, but i'm trying to create a track/ fast road car from the rado which is why it's getting pulled off the road.

OH RIGHT :D looks like it's been scribed by some bloke with a dremmel, suppose it's for quality control or something. Fellow Exeter bod i see, mines off road end of this week for serious modding - hopefully can rewrite that induction definition of yours :D

On second thoughts, this probably ain't the ID but 'stage' the works were done too :?: With regard to hydraulic tappets, read in haynes these have to go back in the same valve housing they were taken from, is this really necessary - bit late if it is :D

think he just means the usual complement of Corrado problems in general. Yep just mean usual corrado problems, such as fog lights/ indicators lens getting busted by stones, headlights are vague, windscreen wipers don't work well as standard, door handles break unless great care taken.... I've had all these problems first hand, but don't let it put you off a cracking car - and they can all be sorted for little expense 8) This is my second valver and i love em, which is why i'm taking it off road this week for the serious modding to begin :D

As mentioned above same engine as golf, with exception of inlet manifold which is smaller bore to provide better mid range torque at expense of top end - hence 3hp difference, though you can easily swap manifold. The golf is slightly lighter i think :?: but is definitely geared differently hence it feels quicker of the line, however rado will purr quite nicely past the golf at top end. I'm not gonna start on the problems :lol: good luck

Am currently rebuilding a KR cylinder head, have found the digit ‘2’ scribed on the 3rd cylinder inlet?!? I’m assuming this is ID of person who did gas flowing – Anyone know who it is?

That is cheap :shock: i stuck two eagle f1's to the rear last week for just over a £100 (15's), and never felt grip like it - Oh and they look the bollox :D

Commisserations man, i've been thrown out of houses on two occasions now - once by parents and by my ex :twisted: it always looks pretty feeble situation at first but things soon sort themselves out for better Break or Sell - Guess it depends what values and demand for Rado's is over their, from the number of parts on ebay i'm guessing it's gotta be better commercial sense to break, but then that'd be gutting, and you'd have to post most the parts to England :D My tuppence

i'm using zimmermans with pagid fast road pads too, very dusty but they make the wheels blend in with my bodywork :D but no complaints about performance I read article about combo above beating some pretty stiff / pricier competition too, but who knows how this compares to OE - One thing I would note, and the road test mentioned - the zimmerman/ pagid fr do tend to fade after '7 quick uses in succession' whatever that means, but tester said additional pedal pressure more than compensated :roll:

this guy used bubble block with fairly good results it seems, also touches on velocity flywheel and sport clutch: - http://www.europeancarweb.com/projectca ... c_projgti/ author is very funny - worth a read :D

£36 quid at pro tyre :!: you need the proper laser ones cos of the low valance

had mine done recently - your readings look damn site better than mine were though :D

I'm no exper either :D But recommend start with connection on blue pin connector which is cold start valve, this is located below the ISV, then move onto the ISV which received signal from blue pin connector as kvwloon suggests. ISV is easy to change but ain't cheap - though there is a character on ebay selling em cheap got number if you need. Just noticed you say it happens when wet, is water getting into induction system somehow? Is your airbox drilled? Water would definitely cause it to struggle in manner described! Other than that you can reeset your idle timing, do this by running car till warm, and then disconnecting black/ red (i think) connector at coil, adjust idle and then reconnect. Other possibility check your fuel/ air mixture, should be 2 - mine had real problems starting when my mixture was way out, but would run fine once fired. Procedures for doing above are in haynes manual - golf/ jetta 16v, get em of volkswagen technical site :D

yep semi synthetic way to go, otherwise the tippity tap of your vavles will drive you crazy with fully synth - did me anyway

Sympathy mate, been there myself - I've had a few dealings with this stuff, the surface is called 'tar & chipping' and the local highways particulalry use it in rural areas as it's cheap one layer alternative to building up 'sub' and 'wearing' courses. The idea is the chippings get pressed into the asphalt through use of the road, and thereby dissapear eventually. My local roads are done like this pretty regular to prevent the line of grass growing up the middle :D Usually the highways section of the local council is responsible for road condition, unless the works are sectioned with third party works. Regardless of this however, the person responsible for the road must display signs which either indicate new road surface/ loose chippings/ and a recommended speed limit.. if not claim :D