1xshaunx1

Hi, thanks in that case can you add me to the list please. Thanks

Easiest way if you really want after ignition pump run is to put a capacitor in the pump circuit on the ignition live to the relay. This would then release 12v slowly until discharged giving you a delay of the pump being turned off no matter what when the ignition is turned off. You could mount this in the car to keep it dry and safe with a diode after it. It’s how emergency lights work when you the power goes off

Can’t see you are going to get a lot of warping if the water has been cooled enough not to bring speed one fans on or it’s just shut itself off be 90 c or less. The bloody thing is supposed to be at its happiest then

I’m pretty sure mine doesn’t stay on when I shut the engine off. I know it doesn’t. I’ll turn the key sometimes when I pull up and you can here the pump come on when I turn the key ignition on, engine off. Is it a year thing mines a 92.

You could put a 3 pin two way toggle switch to ground to the wires from the thermo switch to manually bring them on, on either speed and test if they were working as they should with the pump without popping the bonnet and bridging plugs

As far as I know there is no timer on the oe fan set up, the speeds are operated by the rad thermo switch. You can test this on the OE circuits by bridging the plug and the fans come on, unbridge and they go strait off. The delay will be in the switch as it goes off 5 degrees or so less to what temp it came on.

It looks presentable. I’ve looked your mot history a lot of the stuff mentioned is fairly easy to do yourself, if that what’s failing you this time rear brakes are best swapped out with new discs pads and handbrake cables all done in one I did it not so long ago and listed the part numbers on my thread Some garages are better than others, but you’ll know that. Good luck mate https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/

Wow

I’ve got to say that your reply was pure quality. It’s still tickling me now

Put some photos up, let’s have a look see

I’ll have another look when I finish work.

I wouldn’t advise looking at wiring diagrams you don’t understand just before you go to bed. But I’ve woken up understanding what you were trying to do. Ignore my last post it’s completely wrong. You through me off the scent a bit with the thermo fuse positive. He’s using the switches as ground so where you show a positive in your drawing on thermo fuse should be ground/negative. He’s doing it completely opposite to me. so using his drawing you screenshot, for the aux pump signals you’ll have to use pin 87 off of the 4 pin relays because of the constant ignition live you are using on the aux pump relay trigger, it’s the same but different.

On your fan drawing I can’t see how the relay triggers. Should it be + on thermo going to the battery I think and 86 or is it 85 to ground. I’ll have a look at the weekend

Your drawing for the pump looks good to me. Hook a fan up on the bench to test it.

Turn the radio volume up 😂🤣

It makes no sense at all unless it’s a rolling restoration that you are driving for at least 8 years

I don’t understand why you’ve changed your mind. I think a combination of your in series speed one idea and doing what I said for the aux pump would be a winner. I was thinking of doing it, not yet though.

Hidden I think you’ll see most going for a good spray job are generally fetching north of £10k. Interior and the under side play a part too of course Cars with rust or/and lacquer peal south of £6

Cheers The resin and paint had shrunk so you could see the weave, which made it look a bit dull and odd. Too late for the lines, I’m happy with the new oe ones but thanks anyway, it might help others.

I’ve kept my FCM to bring my fans on and aux pump as standard when required. One fan speed one, 2 fans on for speed two and the black plug disconnected so it doesn’t turn everything off if I get a bit hot.

Diodes can be simple

Can you please tell how much these are, as it’s driving me nuts going through the thread trying to see.

In the last diagram, to me it looks like the pump only works when the second fan kicks in. I’d stay away from the fan circuit other than for signals from the thermo switch, if something goes wrong and a fuse goes to one or both fans you loose the pump too. Pretty sure the auxiliary pump runs whenever the ignition is on or when the fans come on, on after run, ignition off. That’s how I’d want it to work anyway Pin 86 If I were doing it I’d use the four pin really and use signals from ignition live Therm switch low Therm switch high I would put simple diodes inline on each to stop them bleeding into each other. pin 85 - ground I would take a fused supply from the battery for pin 30. pin 87 - aux pump. Should work great 😊

Fiesta XR2 what a shed. Another granny cruiser with trick bits, mostly plastic.

Golfs do nothing for me, absolutely nothing. Didn’t aspire for you one then and certainly don’t know, it’s now a granny cruiser with trick bits. Just thought I’d let you know my opinion on the matter is all.