1xshaunx1

The maf is 5 pin as well NOT 4 pin. Be better going Obd 2 like I did

Congrats with what seemed a painless sale and good luck with what ever car you decide on. my 2 pence is the grass isn’t always greener on the other side ( cheaper or less hassle) but if you have lost the love I suppose that’s that. Happened with a couple of cars I’ve had in the past, just wish I had storage at a later point on reflection. But hey ho time waits for no man, move on.

Have a read through this thread chap

I missed out you have to pry the ball joints out of the plastic bushes on the metal slider at the bottom of the window before or after the 2 off m10 bolts to fully disengage it from the window regulator. A good time to replace the bushes if you have some.

Agreed could be fouling on the wiring. you can get the window out from the top. have it come up so you can get to the 2 off m10 Bolts holding it to the regulator. Remove the bolts. Lift it by hand until the front comes out of its guide, then lower the front as you raise the rear out of its guide. Then lift it out rear first on an angle.

Ignition barrel lock or ignition switch attached to the bottom of it, if that lots ok

It’s a shame there’s no Corrado in there though.

If he don’t have it all I will bring a van 😂😂

They were like this a bit when I ordered mine. 5 or 6 months before delivery from enquiry. They are very busy, just have to keep at it.

Stalling I’m tipping to be MAF

Here it is

At least it’s a 3 door. It should be a lot of fun when finished. How old is the Passat and what mileage do you get for that money. what are you thinking of having done to the engine before it goes into the golf. I also went for the Quaif lsd. Be very careful maxing power till it’s got 1k miles on, mine pulled to the left like someone was tugging the wheel sometimes when new till it was bedded in, at the time I wished I’d gone for wavetec. Them seats look cool n comfy too.

Sharp knife and wire wheel I think. Those pictures are of the old hatch though which was replaced.

I’ve posted these photos before somewhere but can’t find it. As you can see when I broke the glass you could just pull the rest away. No bonding going on just rust eating away under the seal and water finding somewhere dry to go. it’s amazing the damage that might lurk behind a screen that’s had a removal without some proper paint being applied before refitting the screen . The rubber that goes around the screen can hide an awful lot of mischief. Any sign of bubbling under any glass or window seals needs investigating before it gets too much for a cheap scrub and lick of paint to rectify. Leaving it can mean thousands instead of hundreds of well earned Pounds.

Try sending easypops a message as he had a couple spare I think.

My goodness, that’s in a pretty bad way. I’d buy a new whole new tensioner

I once bought a door without realising until it was fitted that the top window part was bent outward. When I removed the outer rubber seal and window guide from the door top it was rusted out where the window frame bit joins the main door near the handle and had no Strength to push against the rubber seal, no fixing that, I got another door.

I agree, if you can see water on the rubber it’s coming from the door

If the bonnet/hood is the same as yours all should be good. Early cars had the dip in the middle of the bonnet, cross over to later cars had the raised middle section on the bonnet which also dictates which wings went on.

What does this mean? I the the last bit 😂😂

It’s the bit on the coil pack with the plug for the wiring from the ecu. You remove this from the oe coil pack when doing the mod using the Bosch motor sport coil pack mod, as in ABV’s thread, that he got from vortex. Yours must be dead, so you still need another coil pack.

I have a coil pack if you want to try one

Save your money and try some 288 discs and ferodo pads. Awesome combination.

I bet it’s not a problem anymore with it being 6 years ago. 🤣😂🤣