VW_OwneR_85

Did it work correctly before you stripped and cleaned it?

Noice!

wow 101 pages !!! and this will be 102 lol, good effort keep at it! with your leaky sunroof , i found mine to leak in the same area after i reassembled it, with it being tilted open you could see the rear drain channel wasnt quite centered with the gap, so anything passing the seal across the back edge wasnt being collected, that channel is part of the interior sunroof panel just make sure its pushed/slid towards the front as far as possible, as it does slide toward the rear taking the drain channel with it, i guss there should be catch to stop it.

i changed fluid to the vw green stuff {almost 3 years now, same time i converted to 24v } and it hasnt been right since, it seemed ok until the car warmed up and then the pas would make noise doing 3 point turns etc , im assuming because the fluid thins out when its warm/hot, i then used a pas leak stop addative which seems to quieten it down abit but the steering isnt as light as i remeber it, going to put on another pump and see how that goes but i cant help but think its the vw green fluid that caused my problems, so looks like i was a numpty and used the wrong fluid --- "The green and red PAS fluids are chassis number dependant. You need to check with the dealer. My 94 VR6 uses the red auto transmission fluid and I confirmed with the dealer it is the correct stuff. The green stuff is a light oil for newer generartion VWs. Always use the right one."

when i replaced my rear brake lines they still felt spongey, even with every nipple being bled to perfection! the abs pump was also making a skreetchy noise upon start up so i would hold down the brake pedal frimly upon starting , weather or not that helped push air out of the abs system ? idk, but the spongey feeling and that skreetchy abs noise ended up going on its own...

maybe as long as it has the right threaded fittings at either end your good to go.

that price is for two canns , just by the one but fair enough, its like £11 ? really not bad considering your have a decent hard/glossy clear, FYI the normal spray can lacquer/clear isnt any good, its a completely different product to what the bodyshops use ,... with that stuff above you will have hardness and longevity and the right gloss.

if your using aerosols then use this on top of your colour http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HB-Body-Professional-2K-Clear-Coat-Lacquer-400ml-Clearcoat-2x-Aerosol-Car-Laquer-/111365262070?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19ede30af6 along with this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gerson-2K-Disposable-Paint-Spray-Respirator-Face-Mask-NOT-AIR-FED-MASK-CAR-PAINT-/350690393436?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item51a6c6bd5c

a word of warning, all rust must be sanded/ground out otherwise your just saving time , your probably end up with areas that once rust has been sanded out leave tiny pin hole specs of rust that you cant touch, these also need to go! , you can use a small drill bit on this as to not thin the surrounding metal to much, once your metal is clean and as rust free as you can get it, then seal it with an automotive 2k epoxy primer, you can either spray it or roll it or brush it you will need paint mixing cups to get the mixing ratios correct, when it drys after 24hrs you can sand it all flat and work off of that! your also allowed to put body filler on top of epoxy rather then to bare metal for its ability to protect the metal from corrosion, this is a water proof direct to metal primer unlike other primers which are pourus and let moisture seep in, rust converters etc etc dont actually stop the rust so make sure its all gone!!

shame to break , looks to good for that! Your oil/coolant mix and pressure could be down to the oil cooler having a pin hole leak , is your coolant expansion bottle full of oil coolant mix?

if the rust isnt that bad then just get it sanded out and painted, you/he wont really be able to tell how bad it is until its taken back to bare metal in that effected area so maybe get him to do that first and see if it all can be ground/sanded out without thinning the metal to much,

Disgusting!, to me they always seem to look like someones taken a can spray paint to them, the only lights i like are standard sprayed red

theres a guide on here in the wiki section to fit TT seats {if there the same rail system?}, i fitted mk3 ones for abit and my head was pretty much touching the headliner and im a short guy, i cannot imagine the mk4 ones to be any different in terms of height, completely kills the way the rado feels when driving aswell, http://wiki.the-corrado.net/tt_seats_fitting.html

ah cant belive i aint updated this for this long, cars still in my ownership and engine wise is running awesome/fualtless!! sadly windscreen rust has returned :( but im sorting that right now!! i have re trimmed the headliner and sunroof panel with faux black leather! looks pretty damn sweet too!! i also have front black leather heated audi tt seats to go in along with rado leather rear seats and door cards to go in once i have re fitted the windscreen and repainted the roof ;) pics might come eventually but im not as motivated as i once was

yea heres a link , looking at the pics now you can see the metals f-k-d , at the time didnt look that way and i rememeber it being cleaner lol http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=56705&page=4

yea cheers, also this is the best thing to use imo to remove windscreen adhesive http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-40787-63mmx-13mm-Bore-Polycarbide-Abrasive-Disc-Power-Tool-Accessories-/400646647600?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d4866af30 they dont clog up and last ages, good at removing paint aswell..

all the rust which i thought i had ground out and treated just came back, have a look at my thread on here in the members gallery for pics etc, iv just spent the last few weeks slowly cutting bits out and welding new bits in in the worst areas, so f-n pi55ed!, this time around i aint using that corrust rust converter {which i also sanded off before priming} and im using a 2k epoxy primer,

Iv just had to RE DO mine after 2 years, at the time i thought i was doing the right thing and it turns out i was just wasting my time and ££ :(

im currentley re trimming mine with faux black leather, finished doing the sunroof panel and surround also dyed the sunroof opening trim seal black aswell, looks awesome!!! absolute pig to prep all the bits though,

cheers bud,

im pretty good with fabbing bits up but its the corner and rust has effected it into atleast 1" of the roof/gutter trim area and theres no way i can fab up something like that, ill get some pics but i dont have a camera phone anymore so its a pita! right here it is, this was just after i completed the paint repair a few years back, screen just fitted :( NOT HAPPY!! anyway dimensions of the red and blue lines to be confirmed when i get back to the shed

check MAF sensor also...

Hi guys , i need a panel section cut from a shell, green lines are cut lines , just cut straight through the lot {inner panelling aswell, if your screen is still fitted then cut up to the windscreen then carefully go inside the car and carry on carefully through but obviously not into the screen, might need to run a stanley blade through the windscreen adhesive from the inside,,, thanks dimensions of blue and red lines to be confirmed...

You must be stoked on this! looks awesome!

the fact that its leaking is kinda off putting because even if you balls up sealing the windscreen down upon installation for it to leak is almost impossible IMO , when installing the screen you run a bead of adhesive {its water proof} around the entire perimeter of the screen out of place with the screen laid flat on a bench etc and then place that screen with suction cups into the channels so there is physically no where for water to enter as the entire perimeter is taken care of unless there is rust holes in the channels ?, but obviously with the screen already fitted you don't know for sure whats under there, everything is fixable though just means you need to knock him down in price to compensate for it and then pay a visit to your local bodyshop,