VW_OwneR_85

haha "have ago spirit" that's me alright! jack of all trades master of none lol, heres the exact welder I used although theres a ton out there which are of the same quality for around the same price , sealey for example http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SIEGEN-S0771-PORTABLE-MINI-MIG-WELDER-130AMP-230V-/291001435066?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43c10983ba iv used ones without gas and using flux core wire but for something like this you want to use gas as it produces less splatter and a cleaner weld ,I was a tad scared/nervous when I first started learning and that really has an effect on the weld because you tend not to hold it down long enough for decent penetration, it took me awhile to get rid of that nervous feeling , don't know why I had it but its like a "holly crap I shouldn't be doing this" type of feeling! it soon goes away though, and not much can go wrong other then stuff catching fire so be prepared to make sure that cant happen, your need one of these , it skews down on to the small mig gas bottles and then the hose from the mig welder push fits straight into it, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Disposable-mini-gas-bottle-regulator-Argon-CO2-for-mig-welding-/170856399400?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item27c7d5c228 and gas , probably best to source locally , if you really get into it though you can get the bigger pub style bottles from a gas bottle place ,you just need a regulator adaptor for the mig hose, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Argon-CO2-Disposable-Mig-Welding-Gas-Cylinder-Bottle-/170839043595?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item27c6ccee0b welding mask http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTO-DARKENING-WELDING-HELMET-Welders-Mask-Solar-Powered-FLAMING-Black-/200841883214?pt=UK_BOI_ProtectiveGear_RL&hash=item2ec31bee4e and a nice pair of leather gloves! and that's pretty much what you need to start welding, you need to make sure the metals clean! if theres any rust it will splatter making it hard to produce a nice weld, for tacking just point and shoot for 2secs for doing a beed {not on sheet/panels as beads will blow through and add to heat distortion} I go from side to side doing ccccccccccccccccccc think of it as hand writing, your just dragging the molten metal from one side to the other and back at the same time the mig is also automatically adding metal for you, theres a few more things like wire speed and heat settings which are the only two settings on these, oh your also need a nice grinder and cutting discs + flap disc's for cleaning up metal , if you want any more info from a diy pov then hit me up :) probably worth checking out youtube for mig videos aswell..

judging by what you have already done then you can do it, and I highly recommend you try you only need a cheap mig, have a look in my thread I use the bottom half of the 12v and the top flanges and flexys of the 24v and merge them together and im no pro, probably had 5-8 hours of weld time prior to that, welding is like hand writing but obviously theres a bit more to it but give a couple of hours on scrap metal and your easily be able to tac stuff together and get things lined up, from there you could hand it over to a welder or keep practising until your comfortable doing it, cars looking sick btw!

good job in saving it buddy, when you say "limp mode" what exactly was happening?

yep coolant hose for the heater matrix and tee's off for throttle body, I guess you have 2 options , find one from some one on ebay that breaks corrados or on here in the classifieds section, or try and get one new from VW , needs replacing and its worth checking the rest of the hose's/cooling system aswell,

to mount vr6 02A gearbox onto r32 engine you use the vr6 clutch and flywheel.

i probably shouldnt post this now but How long can you wait? I had a set with a badly cracked lense that I sprayed , I have brought another one to replace it, just needs finishing, there done to a very good standard , finished off with a 2k clear coat exactly the same as what a bodyshop would do, but I would want £90 + what ever it costs to post special delivery , probably £20? as im from the channel islands,I would have to finish that other one off but im pretty busy at the mo so wont be able to do it for another few weeks atleast , if your interested then I'll try and get that one done and get a picture up of them all together, if some one in the mean time offers you a set then no big deal as I need to finish it off anyway , cheers...

yea scaffolding planks on the gravel good idea!, feenix even with a support beam you will have a very hard time as all it will do is keep the engine raised and that's nothing a spare jack cant do from under the engine although it will be better then a jack as you will have more room under the engine but use a crane buddy and roll it all out, what ever it is you need to do once the engine is removed idd recomend you replace the timing chains and guides and crank seal + clutch, then you shouldn't have to do this again any time soon, it not that bad!! ...

LOL I bet the swear box filled up pretty quick, iv done it the same way on an audi a3 on a ground floor, was horrible! but I didn't have a choice as my shed space was full , never again! don't let it put you off doing future jobs though, with the front end off it really is a breeze especially with a crane you can just roll it in and out at your leisure ;)

how far buddy? edit, just seen county durham, ah yes just a little too far,

hi guys, im on the look out for black leather seats and door cards {later model} from as far south as possible! dorset area would be perfect! cheers

just make sure both surfaces are clean and free from oil, brake cleaner's perfect for this, I recently had to do my timing chain cover as it was leaking , iv only done the upper and when I split it apart there didn't appear to be any sealant, really gutted that I didn't remove both covers when I fitted that engine {24v} it didn't cross my mind at the time :( ah well when I eventually need to replace the clutch i'll re seal both

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIRKO-ELRING-VW-AUDI-SEAT-SKODA-ENGINE-SUMP-SILICONE-GASKET-SEALANT-D176404A2-/171015704173?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27d1548e6d

sachs on mine and all is well :)

the carbon skin is bonded on top of the original so you leave like 3inch or so of original roof skin around the perimeter to bond too, the rest of the inner metal gets neatly cut out, the supports are left alone so no strength is lost, there was a photo of a mk1/2? golf being done which pretty much explains it, looks pretty simple to do as well, you don't even need the windscreen removing just the seal, once the skin is down you put the seal back in on top of it, yea here it is , worth a butchers http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=bodywork-fittings-and_2%2Fcarbon-fibre-roof_2

iv thought about doing this before and Dox is right , carbon roof skin is the easiest way to do this right, carbon roof skin without sun roof is like £550, and theres no way your going to be able to weld it without distortion from welds shrinking + not to mention to get it straight with filler + painting your looking over £500 for a decent job, not to mention your scenario is even worse off then blanking off the normal sun roof as the normal sun roof actually has abit of rigidity around the edge which will help keep shape,

16's with a 45 tyre is spot on for the corrado ,but them 16's with that ride height doesn't look right, agree with harrier, the 15's look a lot better out of your two options.

you dont need a guide but you ideally need a good solid concrete floor and an engine crane, I would highly recommend that you remove the front end and roll out the engine + box complete, basically jack up the front end with jack stands under the sub frame {near wishbones} and remove the front end , once everything has been disconnected {exhaust, driveshafts,electrics + fuel lines, gear cables} you roll out the engine+box together , its more then possible to do it with just taking the box off but I wouldn't want to struggle like that for whats it worth, up to you though, with removing the front end you can do that easily by your self but you will need another pair of strong hands if removing just the box from the car + it wont be easy getting it back in and lined up

I had problems with only one side of my bonnet opening after the car was stood for some time, I found it easiest to remove the bumper to gain access, abit of grease around catch area and it sorted it straight out,

haha yep ;) , if I had known about this thread I wouldn't of posted this exact same thing up here today,

just stumbled across this, thought it was worth the share.

I can see what you mean especially with a silver car but my cars black with black wheels and i wouldn't have it any other way,

im not a fan of them style wheels, I don't like seeing to much spacing between spokes if you know what I mean , and yea they are abit too modern looking for the corrado

I have my old dizzy ecu which doesn't have immobiliser left over from converting to 24v, I am willing to let it go but really not sure on when I can post it + with it being xmas the post right now has past the date to which you might not get it before xmas, idd say £65 posted special dealivery ,

i think the only difference between corrado vr6's is weather or not its from a distributer or coil pack 2.9 , also maybe a slight difference if its automatic or manual transmission , not sure on that though, obd2 golfs will obviously be different,

crazy, what makes it even worse is there probably going on something like this! P.S that hair is nuts!