VW_OwneR_85

if i was doing a conversion idd go 24v 2.8 vr6!! each to there own,

sounds like the drivetrains pulling the car to the left rather than suspension,{could be wrong get an alignment check} as it drives straight without throttle, either way i would jack it up and have a good nose, clunking sounds like your top mount bearing{as you have replaced the top mounts} these can seize up and basicaly when you turn your spring will wont turn freely, easy to identify whilst parked in neutral just turn left/right and have someone look at the springs at the same time, probably best to get it your tracking alignment checked anyway,

think i have found out what the noise could be, after renewing the outer passenger cv joint this morning, i found that the gear box output flange as about 3mm in and out movement which makes that kinda noise, not sure if it would be loud enough though for me to hear it inside the car though.

them hub nuts are f--kn tight, front wheel bearings are sealed cartridge bearings and cannot be overtightened unlike the rear bearings which are taper roller bearings,some hub nuts you can only use once,as it has edges {to stop comming loose}that get torn off once you remove them,the hub nuts ive recently fitted have a ny-loc plastic ring and im sure they can be used more then once.to lossen and tighten that nut to f-t tight,remove the centre cap on the wheel whilst the car is on the ground and in gear/handbrake on,then tighten or lossen which ever your doing, basicaly if your renewing your wheel bearing your first step before you even jack the car up is to remove the centre cap and remove that nut, your last step is to lower the car back down and tighten that nut refitt centre cap and drive away smileing :)

ok cheers for the headsup, thats if i can get it working, i tryed open n closeing reinstalling it etc but no luck, i just cant get past the hardlock error....

hi, anyone brought etka from ebay and got it working ? iv got it installed correctly following the instructions however when i try to open etka a little box opens with error 7 hardlock not found? tryed re installing it and spent around 2 hours playing with it tring to sort it out but no luck :(

when i had ideling problems, it was because the MAF sensor plug was damp with water, a quick drain out and a squirt of gt85/wd40 and it was spot on!, so check ya maf plug as thats not exactly hard to check,

ah nice 1..

just out of interest, what does that vacum hose on the back of the clocks do? tah

lol iv only just replaced the rear discs and bearings and brought them 5x100 golf steels to get banded otherwise i think i would of tbh.

i would also like to know, my corrado vr6 has 288mm brake discs though, i have 15" standard bbs alloys that just skim the caliper,can anyone shed some light as to wether or not cookie cutters will fit? thanks...

yea i tried takeing the door off but looks like you have to remove all the electrics in the door? as theres no quick release coupling for the electrics like you get on some cars, ill just try harder with the door attached,cheers

if anything idd want to do a 4stud conversion, i just cannot find a nice pair of wheels with 5x100, im in the proccess of getting some bannded steels made up but the guy doing it is literaly taking months as someone else is cutting them!!

wow reading through this makes me feel greatful for the one i have,even though its got/had its fair share of problems, my vr sometimes takes awhile to start roughly 4 seconds is that normal for a vr?, i never hear my fuel pump prime though, should it be priming on the first turn of the key when the dash lights light up? it allways starts hot or cold.realy hope you guys find what the cause of this is......

hi, welcome again lol, i own a vr6 and i dont think idd want to own anything else,{even tho i havnt driven any other C} what to look for ? i guess the same as any other second hand car realy but atleast you dont have to worry about the supercharger, i got my vr6 at a good price so i was prepared to replace bits n bobs, so you get for what you pay for,looking back at my purchase i wish i would of waited a few months and spent an extra £1000-£1500 on one thats in slightly better condition, but im still very happy with it and i love sorting out all the bits on it,keeps me interested,

nice one thanks for that, some very useful info,ill search abit harder next time..

hello, can anyone tell me what gearbox's corrado vr6's have? i basicaly need to order 2 output flange seals as mine have leaked oil, or better yet know the part numbers for these seals? thanks...

yea those are the ones,i planned on replaceing them the same time i did the wishbones but when i had a good look at them it didnt look as easy as i first thought, looks like you got to drop the rear of the subframe down an inch or two to get access to the buggers, i did them on my old mk4 golf a few months back and it wasnt hard and made a massive difference basicaly made driveing realy smooth over bumps,but you didnt have to drop the subframe to get to them on the mk4 golf access was fairly good,

anti roll bar bushs i recon, if its just a knock,

when i brought my VR the previous owner had ideling problems with it, he thought it was the isv, but when i brought it from him it was ideling fine, wasnt untill i washed my bonnet with a hose that i found out why it had ideling problems, water was flowing down the electric cable and into the maf connection plug, so just adjusted the routing and dryed out the plug a quick squirt of wd40 and boom its sound idels fine! i probably should replace the plug seals but its ok for now. coil pack?

i changed the top mounts and bearings on the drivers side when i did the wishbones but when i did the passenger side i didnt bother as i didnt have enough time and the driverside wasnt to bad tbh, but i'll give it a lift on that side anyway, i'll check the driveshaft bolts aswell,when i was under the car checking things iv also noticed the gear box flanges {output flanges?}that the driveshafts bolts to has leaked gearbox oil,you can see oil spray on the down pipe, is it a big job to replace them seals? is it possible to do it with the gearbox still in the car? thanks...

if i was you idd check the caliper guide pins,grease em up if nessacery, remove the caliper from the carrier and press the pistons back and refitt then see what happens, failing that idd change the calipers with ones from a breakers,im fairly certain you can replace them with mk4 golf ones as long as you get conversion hoses to suit, iv done this mod on the rear for better hand brake with no problems other then the hoses being seized ish!..

im normaly prety good with noises, but this is annoying! its kinda like a clanky donk kinda sound comming from the front drivers side middle ish area,directly beneath the dash/engine bay,iv noticed it will do it when i go over a bump at slow speed {3mph} whilst turning,does not do it whilst stationary turning left-right ,ive recently replaced the wishbones and arb droplinks and ball joints on the tierod and wishbones i double checked all these bolts today and there tight! noise was there before i did them, im fairly certain its not my arb bushs but they do need doing anyway, my wheels have no play,im all out of ideas! so i guess ill replace the arb bushs as a proccess of elimination!!! at first i kinda thought it was a loose subframe! but the bolts tight!, argghh

if you dont know when the HT leads were last replaced? get them replaced, you can get a cheap set for around £40.00 which will do the job, you will need to buy a vag HT lead removal tool {cost about £15.00} to install/remove them.

got my new milltek exhaust with de cat fitted today!! and wow!!! what a difference!! throttle response has improved greatly between 1000-2000 revs, doesnt pop and crackle when decelerating to a stop and feels very very smoooooth, overall im chuffed to bits!! its like a completly different car!! highly recomended!!!!