steveo29
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Everything posted by steveo29
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id no intention to use them again after what ive witnessed no doubt he will pop again selling tat to fanboys he had
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Is the engine subframe the same in a Corrado and a Golf MkII?
steveo29 replied to Stig's topic in Engine Bay
theyre not identical , would swap and work but the corrado has little plates /legs at the rear near the arb mounts that the golf is missing might as well get the proper 4 cly rado one , theres enough about still -
lucky you got one at all on that old heap...did you bribe em
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havent looked at that specific part but generaly no they dont just push out the bottom , theyre molded into the plastic when its made id imagine with some care you could dremel away from the top until you can pull the insert , then jb weld it back together
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fuel filter maybe? have you checked the idle ajustment and throttle switches
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i got a set of those brand ones off ebay for like £2-3 ..had em a while and theyre fine
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sounds normal
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vw do the same style with chains built in , tbh i find the genuine vw ones way better quality than the exhaust center tat
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you could also tell your mate that once its fixed be carefull not to over rev the engine or hit the rev limiter if possible , its bad for the charger see alot of chavs sittting there bouncing thiers off the limiter ..then stuff like that happens
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Oil Filters.. Now Obsolete??!! (is it true??)
steveo29 replied to starksnuggetg60's topic in Suppliers Forum
must admit ive used standard gti filters on mine , as said i cant really the g60 on being more filtery and the non g60s dont have any bad oiling problems ...prob just that nut you are paying for -
Oil Filters.. Now Obsolete??!! (is it true??)
steveo29 replied to starksnuggetg60's topic in Suppliers Forum
thats a bad show huh , i can understand dropping trim parts after all these years , but service and repair parts should be avail -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/vwg60tuning/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686
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mainly mixture that effects the plugs ...they all go black on the threads other than that it just looks clean a tuner would try the car at 6 degs then try more until it pinks , you can do this if you know what to listen for , ideal set up is just before its pinking
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stealth always seem to give keen numbers ...prob never had 160 anyway
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yeah sounds like it might be a issue
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no should all be the same and snug tell us what car it is , dizzy cap and rotor arm wont be a bad idea
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yeah its doable at home , the orig bolt should be very tight so you will need a good quality socket and breaker bar that wont snap off with a bit of abuse , possibly need a length of tube over the bar to increase the leverage
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paisley or parcelmonkey ...parcel monkey took one for about £11
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^^ try another dealer , part number should be plenty
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its mechanicly controled with a linkage from the throttle , some people do ajust them for earlier boost but the tuners dont reccomend it might be an another issue , they should drive ok when working , but you dont get the sudden boost surge like a turbo
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take a look in the throttle body , the boost return butterfly stays partialy open until almost full throttle
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horrible job ...i spent ages on the first trying to make a clamp device etc doesnt need to be in there that tight , i dont know what those splines are for , a circlip would have done if anyone is local to me , id swap your pin over for a drink , would want the door taken off though
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just so you know for next time...lambda goes in the exhaust , were getting alot of dud answers on here latley
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done a couple on my cars latley...i find the least destructive way is use a 1mm cutter disk in the same plane as the pin and cut a slit , pin then taps out easily mask off the paint and mig weld up the slit , refit the new parts , with care theres very little damage and no lost paint from exsesive hammering
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just did this on mine you need the isv off and out the way , fuel pipe and connector off the driver side of the rail , fuel pipes off the pressure reg , and unbolt the reg then its 2 bolts that hold the rail down , you should then be able to wiggle the wiring loom/inj/rail out in one piece ...possibly have to unplug the inj once theyre pulled free take a look at the inj wiring as it gets brittle