steveo29

mine had a case of juddering when warm , was almost undrivable , that was the o2 sensor but it was consistant you can jump out and unplug the sensor down near the rear engine mount , if its all good when you unplug then replace the o2 sensor if its not had one latley a new genuin blue temp sender might be an idea too ..never hurts

center cap off the disc , split pin out , castle nut thingy off , then ajust the nut to your liking ...replace all the bits n bobs i know theres some bumpf in the manuals about ajusting them , i prefer to go hand tight on the nut , spin the wheel and feel for play and then only just nip it a touch if theres any play trouble is if he used cheap bearings you wont know , my golf (same set up) howled like a good un , i blamed it on my tyres but thought id replace the bearings anyway , the old bearings had just passed an mot , no play , span up nice with no roughness , looked fine when i inspected them , BUT they was the cause lol

ecu relay can cause some wierd stuff, theyre only a tenner or so

theres a plug for the inj at the end of the rail , bit if theyre wet it kinda suggests its getting fuel you still get the pistons moving if the crank bolt has gone , just the valve timing will be all wrong are all the engine earth straps tight and strong , no corrosion etc?

yes sounds like a case of re tracing what you did , somethings been left off or knocked while you worked on it can use a multimeter to see if the starter is getting its start voltage to the solenoid

see if the plugs are wet or bone dry after a bit of cranking possibly a inj harness prob , i think you can check for voltage at the connector

theyre pretty bad , even if you get the right part theres a good chance the quality is so bad it wont last a year i only use them if i have to , then you still need to pick and choose what you order

not much on the rear that will whine , cheap bearings , bearings that need re ajusting , mis shapen tyre

best place to plumb it in is the mfa pipe behind the clocks , its already inside the car and nice and clean /dry , just use a T piece to join it up as for what guage...anyone that takes your fancy , a known brand like vdo , autometer etc will prob be more accurate than chinnese ones but get what you can afford

does the fuel pump run ?

either way works , best way is the support beam that goes between the wing tops , but a couple of sensibly placed jacks will do the job too could possibly use some 4x2 to make a support beam

yes you can

if you need the driveshafts off at a later date dont forget to crack the nuts off while its all togther

its pretty easy youd want calipers off and hanging on a string /wire , exhaust undone at the cat , steering uj undone , wiring undone ,matrix pipes off, then support the body and undo the 4 ? subframe bolts , top mounts and the front mount and drop it out on a crane ive prob forgot a few bits , i'll edit em in later if a remember any , its the best way to do it if you need to work on it all

on the rollers they will advance the timing and seek more power without pinking ...so say 7-8 degs or so if its kjet then they can ajust the wur to richen the mixture too id already played around with mine and stealth didnt make no differance to it , personaly id say spend the ££ on some tools to tinker with it yourself

pull the plugs and see if theyre all the same and if you shine a torch in the bores can you see anything a garage should be able to do a sniff test to confirm its the gasket if you cant make up your mind

kr dont use a crank sensor... my thoughts are leaky /sticky injector or headgasket starting to go you can pull the injectors and watch to see if they dribble or anything ...point em in some jam jars and bridge the fuel pump , then lift up the metering head flap , mine did the start on 3 cly and it was the head gasket...if you pulled after it stood you could see one piston was damp so try that too

yeah no doubt brand new vag ones are the way to go if you have funds ..i just figured its worth a clean out if ever theyre out for whatever reason you do need to belt em like a ginger step child , no gentle taps , all mine came out that way , but yeah you can use pliers as the bit you pull on doesnt need to be unmarked if the pliers nick it

yeah apparently a dud will be soft while the others are hard once theyre out its like 5 mins per tappet , plus any soaking time if you want to remove the burnt on oil , i just soaked the worst off with celly thinners and air lined then clean

im certainly no engineer but all i can see failing is the spings breaking or going weak these were just a bit gummy from old oil , really easy to do if you have the brains to get the tappets out you can do this , so worth a bash

any new ones you fit ...grease em up and they should last a long time

id heard before you can strip and clean the hydraulic tappets found on most later vw's , its nearly always the reason they tick 1, take your tappet and slam it onto some wood as hard as you can , might take a few goes for the center to fall out 2, work over a sheet of white paper as the parts are tiny , the small cap on the left simply pops off with some pliers to reveal a spring and a ball bearing , take some time to clean all this up and reassemble with some clean engine oil , the center take a good shove to click back in place might help some of you that cant afford new ones , or worth doing while the engine is in bits

for what its worth i found the procedure somewhere...i think its blue sender off and rev 3x times , anyway i played around with it and the meter didnt change at all if yours is about right which it sounds like it is , set the pot to 450 or whatver they reccomend with the engine off and leave it

wouldnt be the first time a recovery driver gave the wrong diagnosis assuming it wasnt a mega high milage rattly smokey dog theres a chance it could be something else

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?57199-Gruvenparts-QuikShift is it the part mentioned in that link...you could make something up like in my post in the above link?