steveo29
-
Content Count
1,904 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by steveo29
-
id go for something painted on over a sandblasted finish , that way you can touch bits in and do part repairs in the future por15 is very hard and does well on blasted steel epoxy primer would be a decent choice too , theres rustbuster epoxy mastic , or jotamastic on ebay theyre less fussy on the prep if you wont have it blasted
-
ive got the vibra front , no downsides to it that ive noticed , cant say i found it vibrates at all at idle
-
Exhaust pressure testers - Yorkshire area
steveo29 replied to Critical_Mass's topic in Suppliers Forum
never heard of such a thing , youd need to pay a workshop to make up custom plates/bungs to seal each end then roar an airline into it or make something up yourself with a tyre valve and pump it up -
the boost return would have circulated an oily mist in with the hot air to help lube the strips , you now have to manualy spray some lube in there now n then to keep them lubed...g werks will sell you a can
-
dunno really , the pulley often wobbles and the car will be fine one minute and ropey the next i cant think of anything else that would make a manifold glow then self fix itself overnight
-
could it be the crank keyway going? timing going in and out of ajustment
-
dunno if it would cause it , but make sure the vac hose is on the right nipple on the tbh
-
line it up to the center of the rotor when the timing marks are all set up
-
time up the cam belt marks , then fit the dizzy so the rotor lines up with the notch in the casing, that should be near enough to run and then use a strobe light
-
G60 throttle body vacuum lines - Easy question... I think!
steveo29 replied to P3rks's topic in Engine Bay
it does matter , not got my car here so cant say which one -
ive personaly had some very poor work and terrible customer service from jabba , up until recently g werks had everyones reccomendation but they seem to have slipped and not many folk have a good word for them now honestly , i dont think id use either , maybe look at sending it into europe , our german friends are very good at keeping thier word
-
its its rusted into a hole it needs cutting away so that its a clean n tidy hole , then weld in fresh metal , can prob fashion a piece from a sheet or if its really tricky then yeah cut a section off a scrap car
-
go for a full service with good quality parts, new plugs , rotor arm , cap , oil , filters etc ..then have a garage set the c/o and timing and see how it is then
-
not convinced leads would cause a stall , but its nice to have fresh ones if their old ones on it when its running go round and poke n prod all the conectors , relays etc , you might be able to make it happen on demand and find and duff conection
-
and did you wash it off before fitting
-
was the matrix washed off with brake cleaner? will stink if not
-
dont exect much gains unless the converter is shot to bits , didnt notice much at all on mine
-
yeah had to do the golf too , chop a neat square out and weld in new , if you use a lump of brass behind the area it stops the weld blowing through and acts as a heatsink too
-
10/40 is right , just a good semi synthetic will do yes they have hyd tappets , maybe run some cheapo super market oil for a weeK(no racing etc) then drop it and try some decent stuff with a genuine vw filter atf (auto trans fluid) often helps clear them , you can add 0.5-1ltr before a oil change
-
HELP! How to remove sump from KR 16v UPDATE still need help! (With pics)
steveo29 replied to luke w's topic in Engine Bay
sheild needs to come off irrc , its only a couple of bolts -
everything points to the heater matrix
-
stevens vw breakers will prob have one and post it...id at least try and get the right one
-
HELP! How to remove sump from KR 16v UPDATE still need help! (With pics)
steveo29 replied to luke w's topic in Engine Bay
1/4 set with a wobble and or universal joint its getting em back in u need to be carefull with , super easy to cross thread em , -
say where you live , that might help theyre readily available in scrap yards in the uk , some will post to you a golf mk2 one is very similar to the 4 cly rados , rados have extra tabs at the rear behind the arb brackets that you could possibly swap over if you really had to , and the rado also has a weight attached but doesnt seem to do anything