steveo29

yeah its off a earlier shift tower i had laying around if you cant find one , id use a stainless m6 bolt the cable fits onto a 6mm shaft thats about 10-11mm long , so if you chose to do it that way use m6 nuts instead and a couple of lock nuts

nice one :)

best i can measure here...and id sooner you check your own plastic bit before welding things up center of 12mm shaft to bolt 38mm 12mm shaft to nut center 38mm for approx 35% reduction....or 55mm to the non reduced position , or anywhere between to taste nut height ...approx 1.5 nuts high

ive got some plain universal grilles left over from a project...if you wana measure the diameter of your hole i can see if theyd suit?

hmm not sure what my golf has compared to rado /passat ?

yeah ive done the forward and back years ago , theres several threads detailing how its done http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5988 it also shows another way to reduce the side to side , although that wont remove the excess play in the pivot area which mine suffered with , for the sake of another hours work you may as well lose the plastic item altogether

have a go yourself...im sure someone local can put a few small welds on for a beer if you cant weld the rest is easy stuff

test drove it today , very much an improvement over the plastic item , 30% seems about bang on for the reduction , slightly noticable that its closer but nothing like a race car and no chance that you will chose the wrong gear with the solid bushes and this , its close to how i want it shift quality wise

powerwashed my engines loads of times , no problems take some time to cover the ecu and dizzy ...dont point the jet straight at connectors etc then use some old rags to dry up the wosrt and wd40 all the connetors and regrease any linkages that youve cleaned off...such as bonnet catch , gear linkage , throt cable

i guess it will wear after a long time ...gruven obviously think its okay , and the earlier towers have metal to metal , i figure if its greased up well it should last a good long time the o rings on the orig part ...dunno what thats about really , its a pretty sloppy fit so maybe the plastic is made undersize and the o rings are there to make it snug ? ...the hole in the tower is plain with no grooves for the rings to sit in david..i cant really see how you make an ajustable slot , you could weld on another bit of plate instead of the nuts and have several holes really close to each other ? or just make up a rough one similar to mine and just grind off the nut and reweld another on until its to your liking

yeah bit dearer than £2 though isnt it

its a m12 x90mm ...the end was trimmed to tidy it , the important bit is that the shank is 50mm long and that its a accurate 12mm dia got mine from www.stagonset.co.uk id prob use 2x half nuts on its end if i re did mine

sorry i dont have the time to be making these ...

i decided to try and improve over the plastic linkage in the shift tower , at the same time moving the pivot to reduce the side to side play , much like the part gruven sells for $90 costs a couple of quid in nuts n bolts , plus the cable attacment from a earlier car i had laying around heres a few pics incase anyone fancies making themselves one materials req...thats 4mm x20mm bar but anything close will do, m12 bolt with a 50mm shank (slim head if possible) 1x m8 bolt , 2x m12 nuts , 4x m8 nuts first job drill a 12mm and 8mm hole that match up with the plastic part , chop off some m8 bolt and weld it on one side and grind flat next weld on some m8 nuts , i chose to have a short shift position (-30%) and a standard one , weld on 2 nuts on top of each other , then grind back so theyre the right height , roughly 1.5 nuts high lol offer up a straight edge to confirm theyre the right height compared to the vag plastic part 12mm drill the bracket and tack a m12 nut to the vw bracket i found the bolt head was fairly close so ive grinded the top down a nadge , might try a regular hex head for better clearance..but here it is all done , much stronger and less play than the plastic part

yeah your vortex pic shows the legs im on about...

the g60 one have like a little leg extending back from the arb mount area

get a ring of card and cover it with parcel tape and fit it from the outside ....then use fibreglass from behind to build it out once its dry the parcel tape will snap away and leave a neat finish that can be tidied up

its just a matter of taking it all apart and inspecting it for wear ...replace what you can other bits can be tweaked or a washer fitted here n there to help that ebay link is for a golf...wont work on corrado cable boxes you can align yours with a 8mm drill bit on the gearbox end ive fitted a later passat tower to mine thats got less play , it also has 3 mouting bolts for the cable bracket which ive now fitted the verdict motorsport bushes too..or i believe the mk4 golf parts fit straight on and are even nicer also had a nylon cable end bush custom made as the rubber one is rubish while mine isnt perfect and im still not 100% happy..theres no way i get even close to 3-4 cm slop in it , something is badly worn on yours

old ones looked as good as new ...i tried pulling on the bracket before taking it apart , didnt appear to be much slack really cant really get a picture krnau, its pretty much hidden ...you can see the bracket in my first post , its smack bang on top of the gearbox

id suggest new ball joints too mixed opinions on polys ..some people aint keen , audi TT ones are a direct fit in the rear of the wishbone

got these fitted today , better than i expected ..i can easily notice its stiffened up the shift a fair bit took about 25 mins of swearing to fit good value imo

sounds normal...the fuel pump can run to prevent hot start issues

how does coil or alternator give symtoms like its seized up ?

£5 for a kilo of the stuff at halfords labeled cv moly grease

your gona need the tracking and camber checking anyway ...id fit them in the center of the slots