steveo29

got a vibra front on my 16v and g60...very similar to std imo , im a fussy sod and would notice

need a 1/4" wobble extension and /or universal joints yes a gti gasket is the same..its based on a 8v gti lump you could get the rubber gasket /windage tray from a mk3 diesel thats a nice upgrade

look like the cheapest of cheap non ss clamps to me ...try a magnet on em if you care its no biggie anyway...soon swap em over if they rot, proper clamps are like a band that go around it rather than a U shape

nasty how theyve used cheapo clamps on it not sure what to think on the mid box either , dont standard ones have the pipe going straight in without that U bend does it go any better or worse than before?

as said no need for run it ..but keep a keen eye on temps and check the levels after a short drive also keep an eye out for stuff like loose hoses or bits left loose during the build up

be carefull with stonechip over rustoleum ...will prob cause it to crack as stonechip is usualy thinners based

or any bosch dealer

rallye engines are slightly differant but they should all swap over no probs

surley thinner is what you want if you want to get around the problem...the noise goes away when the oil gets hot and thinner ive had success with running atf oil mixed in for a few hundred miles,it cleans them out ...not everyone is a fan of flushing oils though

the fact it uses oil kinda points towards wear n tear valve guides and seals are the first to go ...after that its bore wear and piston rings what engine is it and what milage /history ? might be worth grabbing a good used engine instead

yeah its just got some angry sharp teeth that bite into the outside wall...works on allen bolts fine not sure on thier sizing , it wont say 5mm to relate to the the allen key , its prob the outside diameter my set got a 5mm allen screw out no probs

irwins are the nuts, well worth getting a set another option is hammer in a spline or torx bit then buy some decent quality tools and hopefully they wont round the fastners off anymore

you want the copper nuts for a mainifold , theyre like 20-30p at the dealers for the rest go for stainless unless its a high tensile bolt like brakes /suspension

no what i said still stands the standard chip is in no way safe to use with smaller pulleys and i dont know anyone that would advise that correct fueling is very important on a charged car yes theres a small amount of room to perhaps accomodate a exhaust and airfilter swap , but its not a "one chip suits all" situation so while the car will still start with a small pulley and big valve head /cam its not right and not reccomended , id say its more luck you havent done damage , maybe the charger is a bit low on boost ?

not all from the same chip im affraid , they will fit you a differant map for standard , smaller pulley and so on the chip wont cater for all the way from no boost to highly modded , you need the correct one to suit your mods

shouldnt expect it to make the emmisions worse i dont agree that any old sns chip will be right though , if the fueling is wrong things can melt fast id at least want it checked on a rolling road , dont just assume its okay because someone on a forum thinks it might be

its on a 8v gti...but intresting still http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=210893 seems to agree with what most of us are thinking is correct ?

not worth an ask how much without the port work? gota be a good chunk off

phil are they local to essex...ive heard good things about em on cgtl

bet its done elsewhere with added gwerks tax

ive heavily dremeled mine , sanded back as much as i dare and smoothed out cant notice jack tbh ...spend your money on something else imo

dont think you can really fit the guides yourself maybe ask around localy for a price at a machine shop , it shouldnt be loads for guides and a skim , you can lap the valves and assemble it yourself

you idealy need to go for inners and track rod ends , new wishbone bushes , ball joints and maybe top mounts if money allows that way its all the bits that wear and once its tracked up (find someone that can do it right ) it should need to come apart for a while otherwise one new part will highlight some wear somewhere else ...and anyway labour shouldnt be much more to have them done while its apart

alloy wheel cleaners often bring up the surface ...along with a wirebrush if you paint it use etch primer first

no way id sandblast one ...it gets in anywhere you can probably get away with power washing and change the gear oil afterwards