steveo29

you can deffo swap all the mounts in situ , i have on mine it will help of you remove the rad fan...and leave the front mount loose /unbolted until the rear is in

on the rears can you get the actual handbrake lever out of the caliper? is there a seal on that or anything to refurb

its a bit extreme to remove the engine for the mounts and carbon canister...only a mornings work there

have you thought about the engine mounts?

really ? im thinking it does, my battery used to get run down on short trips, after the 90amp was fitted it was better

dot 4 is fine you need to cable tie the compensator valve fully open id suggest some kind of pressure bleeder...the rears can be alkward to get right

depends how you use it occaisional weekend blast...a 65mm should do regualar/daily driver with longer runs..68mm is a better choice

yes you can...straight swap

right a couple of members asked about my nylon bush for the cable end i had it made by a guy on some other forum to my drawings...it needed a slight fettle with a dremel to make it fit and improved the feel no end who else is intrested ? ive asked for a price ..not sure if he will deal with individuals or i can be the middle man

anyone ever considered a jd engineering chip? i hear he's the dogs danglers with g60 over in holland

well lets see theres 3 sensors on the dizzy end of the head...all single spades and can go on any of those sensors 3 wire plug to dizzy plug to thermo time (unknow amount of wires) under dizzy area oil sensor on back of head..single spade 5th inj...that has a blue plug wur ...2 wire plug (might be grey ?) but mines been mullered isv 2 wire (black i think?) only others i can think of around that area would be reverse switch wiring

brown one...does it fit on the thermotime switch?

can you post some pics of the spare wires? i might know where they go

id get all the random loose wires hooked up and see where its at then a wur controls the fuel pressure from cold...kinda like its choke , as the pressure changes so does the mixture.

are we talking 4 cly here? if so yes its okay...unbolt the front one so theres some movement

davids post on page one with the pics explains it ...you wont louse it up its pretty easy tbh

they are fairly tight, youd need a fair sized rachet or a small breaker bar to crack it lose

All adjustment on the CO pot is done whist all other senders are plugged in to get an accurate reading and obviously when the engine is warm. The mixture becomes rich whist the blue temp sender is unplugged as the mixture is not burn't correctly as the ignition timing is retarded to a fixed constant with no ECU trim. thanks for the reply...so i guess mines about spot on then? sits at about 14.7 afr and fluctuates maybe 0.2 how come the corrado bently says its all done with the bts off and rev 3 times blah blah :geek:

http://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk have the ends and stuff to remake one if you want

if testing the idle mixture on a wideband...do you leave it all hooked up or disconect the blue temp sensor and rev 3 times etc? i just tried mine...14.7 afr all hooked up....and 11.xx with btc off edit...co pot had little effect shifting the co reading...although it it goes up n down with a multimeter on the pins

lots and lots of owners have had poor rebuilds from jabba...if you can manage to get to gwerks for a check over i suggest you do so asap

i might have a used bush if you want to cover posty....i replaced mine with a nylon one

can you post up some info on suitable vw gear oil replacements ..from budget to top spec

didnt do fcuk all to mine :?

id suggest you wedge the engine in the corner somewhere where it cant roll about...then sump off use a block of soft wood against the crank to stop it turning