steveo29

no , they said black should be close enough in most cases , i just asked for the matt finish

sand it down mate....its only the orig dye thats cracked in most cases

yeah , please yourself if you take it apart. vw seats come apart fairly easy anyway so its worth it if you can when it comes time to put the dye on i suggest you fit the leather back over the foam so its tight

sposed to last like the orig stuff....id imagine it might be ok for a steering wheel, best email em to confirm though thing is its so quick n easy you could redo it every 18 months

i have no cat...and im sure it 0.25 c/o (not saying its right mind you) pitstop told me not to worry too much what the tailpipe said as long as it passes mot...just make sure c/o pot is 450 ohms

dunno on that one mate...maybe theyre regualr 8v ones id wait and find one that matches yours

mine was about 0.25 on the c/o meter with the wideband showing the correct reading and the c/o pot at 450ohms

yeah mate easy diy job for a sat morning...just need the gasket i think the isv will move once you cut the cable ties...its no biggie to remove it anyway, prob worth cleaning while your in there

they can match any colour if you can send a headrest or somthing to look at http://www.leathermagicuk.com

i already had the seat out and taken apart...theres prob about 2 hrs work in that bolster, just takes a while to sand it well. the dye goes on in minutes

i recently picked up some used car seats , the outer bolsters were not up to standard and i looked into new pieces and various dye/paint/repair options i decided after lots of reading that i needed a water based dye kit, i went with http://www.leathermagicuk.com and got the £34 repair kit heres what the leather looked like when i had removed it from the foam and base the instructions state you should wipe the leather down with the solution included (alcohol i think ) and then sad the leather with the 220 paper that comes in the kit...alot of the minor creases and cracks sand out at this stage heres the sanded leather next job...wipe on 3-4 thin coats of dye and you have the option to spray the final coat with a sprayer thats included i was very happy with the results , most of the cracks and creases are gone or improved and the bolster easily looks as good as a one year old part (its 11 yrs old really) im not easily pleased and had my doubts about doing this, but im fully satisfied and couldnt expect any better unless i paid for brand new leather. it still feels and looks just like it should and it does smell bad of chemicals at all heres the dyed one next to the passenger seat for comparision(the drivers one was worse that that ) heres a gear knob i refurbed...no before pic but the colour was worn away on the stitching ive only used about 5% of the kit , so its great value..i just hope it lasts a few years

haha jabba strikes again

changed mine with just the rad fan cowling off...no need for rad hoses off make sure you have a trolley jack to support the engine

stage 4 doesnt mean alot really..differant tuners use differant terms for the state of tune...id expect it to be a chip and 68mm pulley g werks should be able to sell you a pulley and belt , and it might be worth a chat with them about a check over for your charger as the pulley will spin it faster and it needs to be in top shape, id also suggest you have the fueling checked after its fitted as your chip is unkown

chances are the chip is made to be used with a smaller pulley , you need to know what combo is needed and then make sure the charger is healtly enough to take the extra revs

thanks for the reply david, i was wondering if the pressure bleeder would bleed it anyway? anyone else got any thoughts? how come the writing is upside down in the correct application , or were they upside down on the orig car i took em from

right found these calipers on a audi 80, theyre near new and id like to use em on my 91 golf (same fitting as corrado?) when offered up to the car they suit best when fitted to opposite sides to how they were on the audi so would that one be ok for use on the n/s (notice the writing is the right way up) would i need to bleed them off so that the nip is up? i would be using a easybleeder

does that unit look able to run the 5th inj? are all parts and set up gear available still? my car is pretty standard, just exh and wur mod , still worth doing?|

ive got hold of a k star unit from a 16v mk2, it has 3 wires spliced into the ecu harness and a big bunch tied up and never been used is it any good? worth fitting? i guess the other wires are for the top spec fuel & ign unit?

id put the money towards a sns chip the RR will only confirm what the mixture is and maybe they might ajust your timing, if the mixture is bad through the revs theres not much they can do about it

im no expert , but if youve swapped all the parts mentioned and the crank is 100% etc surely it must be a dodgy wire thats touching somewhere it shouldnt randomly?

its more under load you need to worry about pinking maybe it got hot idling and caused it...

There is a misconception about the fifth injector. I think the fifth injector only squirts fuel when the engine is being cranked with the ignition key. Once the key returns to position 2, the fifth injector stops squirting. poor old 5th inj gets the blame for all running probs on a kjet...they rarely play up

you should have put the bolts back !

any chance of a photo of your set up mate? mines a 91 g60 and im not sure the cables would be correct?