steveo29

okay i did my big end bearings on the g60 last year..usually clackaty noise was cured :lol: just wondered what milage (ish )i can expect???? the orig ones were at around 85k and i dont drive it too hard 8) and the crank looked good can i expect like 30-40k or will it 10k or what

yeah i just asked on vortex.....i thought it looked like it was direct the flow??? did you notice yours was any better without it??

thats handy..i have some 16v ones in stock :D what do recon its for??? it makes quite a restriction! one more Q can you get the vac hose clips? im guessing i need em..or would a cable tie do the job

whats the deal with the bolted on weight on the small butterfly??? ive just pulled the tb for some diy flowing ,should i lose this weight?? what do i do with the holes where it screws

at least it did blow :oops:

probably :cry:

do you mean the throotle stop or the idle screw needs to be wound out to 950?? infact can you /anyone point in the direction of the official method? im getting differant storys from several people that i kinda trust :roll:

ok ive read 2 differant instructions for idle speed set up #1 warm eng,disc red/blk wire,set idle ,reconect #2 warm eng ,disc red/blk wire AND isv plug ,set idle reconect thing is my idle drops alot more after undoing the isv plug...prob like 400=500 revs differance the reason ive been fiddling is...if i dip the clutch at say 2000k ish the revs plumet and almost stall then pick up...where as at higher engine speeds the idle drops to 1250 ish then gently settles to 1000 ive checked /swaped the following...isv cleaned and swaped , checked temp senders in head, throttle switch works,c/o 2% ,timing 6 deg,idle screw clean ,tried another isv controler and probably some other stuff i cant think of

ive ran mine with slightly lower than level drive shafts for years with no prbs....id imagine someone has moved the ball joints in the sloted holes( your suposed to mark em and put em back in the same spot) or do you do lots of burn outs?

the engine mounts are nothing to do with the mot....15mm isnt a huge amount, just consider getting the mounts done when you can

mine doesnt do that....is it sealed well?

id agree theyre optimistic.......my kr golf with 150k showed 153 bhp on stealths rollers theyre no magicians.....all they did was set my c/o to 2% and they set the timing to just under 9 deg, they wur mod was not needed cost was £90 ive sinse put the timing back to 6 ish beacuse it was a bit jerky at slow speeds...and not worth the 2 bhp it picked up id just advise anyone to have a proper service with new plugs,filters and the work...get the c/o put to 2% and have the timing checked ....just enjoy your car for what it is...numbers dont mean jack

as far as im aware the kr cant be chipped....theres add on tuning boxes like vsam and k star but not a chip as such

ive tried liquid leather and meguiers....both leave either em greasy or shinney any suggestions....its black leather btw

for a start i loosen both 13mm bolts/nuts at the gearbox end....wiggle the gearstick and let it sit and nip up the bolts this should get it close.....then depending on whats bad, say for instance 1st needs a good shove...get a freind to work back n forth to 1st and you watch what the cables are doing, then ajust a smidge so that 1st gets a little more movement also look for a post from kwloon in the common corradoq section...he listed a weight that helps alot

i always run my car up with the cap off...let it run till the fan cycles on and off,then let it cool and top it up if req anti freeze does make a diferance...although not 50 deg

theres a special tool for the tensioner....you can get by bending 2 prongs on a old kitchen fork 8)

does it shift into 2nd if you work the linkage by hand in the enginebay? i can get mine working by loosening the bolts...wiggle the shifter around and let it sit ,then carefully nip up the bolts it gets it working

ok,done it....its better than before although im still having probs hitting 1st gear.....more ajustment needed i spose

ive had the other bit a while...lost the receipt and all that, i'll just be glad to get the right bit on there

ordered mine today....get em weds :D

g master...listen forthe rears to knock while theyre under warrenty.....mine clonked when going real slow,like going around a car park etc...it sounded like a loose top mount-but it was the shocks

weird when i posted on clubgti about mine...several others said theirs clonked too,kinda put me off em ive still got the fronts laying around,maye i'll stick em back on...its the agro of getting the alignment done though innit

gav.. i had the weitec top aj kit and the rears clonked....drove me nutty

ive had my car 9 years now...over the years ive tried plenty of budget-mid price kits trouble is after 12 months or i get problems...ive had em leak,then my last set the rears clonked and now it sounds like the fronts are clonking i dont drive particularly hard, no track days...just a tad lower than std can anyone suggest a brand that LASTS ? its not so much fitting new uns ,its the cost of alignments all the time