steveo29

last time i brought one it was nearly £10.....granted if its needed id buy them

does anyone know the deal for SURE with these vag filters.....ive always ran a std gti filter on mine and assumed the differance was just the nut i mean the non nut vag filter fit loads of engines ....im sure it has the valve in it for what its worth jabbasport :lol: told me years ago that thats the only differance and they use these filters....

was it a new vag charger?? 2nd hand or what?

beavis....yes ajusting the screw changes the ohm reading on the outer pin......didnt seem to make my c/o differant can you advise on using a gas analiser??? i have access to one where i work(im a car painter not mech)..whats the procedure?? blue temp sender disc?? rev to 3k etc??? :roll: :roll: what shoul i set it too?? it seemed to be around 0.3 with everything hooked up

i had a play on the c/o tester at work...mine is around 0.3 with out a cat....any amount of fiddling the co pot wouldnt change it i think the ecu alters it to stay at a given value??

ive had some experiance with jabba...i can confirm that the porting is minimal,more like removing the casting flash!!...yes they lied to me as well..they were really unorgainised and didnt seem to care if i used them or not i know like 6 years ago they were the only rebuilders and mike did care about your custom...well its all changed now and they dont give a monkeys i will either try to do myself or give pitstop a try :wink:

mine did that....isv was faulty even though it was minty clean and still buzzing.....ebay has em new for 39 quid

what do awesome charge??

i know a few people run lower temp fan switches...where do you source the low temp switch?? another vag car? looking for one for my 16v 2 speed fan

the weight is really easy.....one bolt fitment

okay here goes...i hope i remeber it right first...you can remove the shifter from inside without touching the exhaust, you need to dremel about 1-2mm away from the lip at the front of the gearstick(very obvious when your looking at it) okay...once its out theres a circlip at the top of the stick....the groove it sits in needs re-cutting 25mm up the stick, i used a hack saw next look at the metal housing that has a pin sticking out that the stick pivots on....somehow you need to raise this pin 25mm, i cut out pin and welded in a plate to relocate it last thing....the plastic lower section, it needs cutting in the middle and a 25mm nylon spacer added the important points are...make sure the welding is quality, you dont want it snapping off....and make sure everything is 25mm exactly...you can do say 35mm for a extreme short shift or 18mm for a mild one...or anything between as long as the measurements are the same i found this helpfull(he sells em if you cant diy it) http://www.dieselgeek.com/early_cable_s ... nstall.htm hope that makes sense...its fairly obvious when you look at the stick, should take an afternoon if you have a welder

ive done mine myself.....i can write it up when i get some time if you like

i had new tappets wear funny in a few thousand miles....the tops had worn alot for no reason??? bung a cheep oil pressure gauge on first

that'll be each i presume :wink: yeah each....sometimes theres a good deal on ebay, im after some at the moment

a touch time consuming to change.....nothing overly complcated if your up to re fitting the timing belt prices seem to range from £8-25 depending where you go

ive had my 16v sinse 88k miles i decided to try mobil 1 from then, it never leaked or used any and ive ran it for a good few years...i now use synta gold cus its cheeper mine doesnt sound too bad ,i spose it is a little rattley at the top....but at 150k it still doesnt use any

fuel cons....normal(uses loads ) blue temp thingy disc....not really lumpy, maybe changes the idle a bit fuel filter done within 7-8 k same any weather

anyone

thank for the reply...it has been cleaned and i have NO idle issues .....its just the transition from very slight throttle to none :roll:

i know the pump is relayed but its prob poo wiring and its 13 yrs old, im gona bung a voltmeter on there when i get chance

you know how headlights suffer voltage drop ,and how a relay improoves things no end?? well do you recon the fuel pumps suffer a voltage drop??? i was thinking if you can pick up and extra bit of voltage it may help with better running also i can see alarms causing further drops. what do u think?

my g60 gets a bit jumpy/jerky when driving at very slight throttle openings....for instance when trawling along at 30 with your foot just on the pedal its seems to be related to the actual on/off from a slight opening....if i close the throttle at say 3k and let it slow down its fine i asked this a while back and was told get a new cable,well its no better....and the idle switch works and is ajusted nice and my mounts are new/good any ideas??

hubs are gona be £££££ you dont have to use a press, they will knock in with a hammy and big socket if you have a spare car...run the new bearings and your old hubs to a garage, most guys will push em in for a drink

i got some yellow koni rear dampers...at .the top of the piston where usually theres a circlip mine has a rather beefy welded on collar instead of the clip would i be right in thinking you still use the washer ???

okay its on fully soft now...much better , i can probably live with it now i must admit it handles alot better at high speed than before(cheep damper/springs)