VR6 Gar

General rule of thumb is turn down the first 2 offers. Make sure you send them loads of adds from pistonheads and autotrader showing how much comparable cars are or even ones that are not as good and explain why to get your price upped. Then rinse them for whiplash claims because they tried to feck you with stupid low offers and wasted a lot of your time, they deserve it.

Got a problem where the car runs very cool when cruising. Sitting around 75mph will see coolant below 70degrees. This is a problem as it will be over fueling as it is in warm up mode below 70 apparently. New 'stat fitted and no change, still runs cool when cruising. Could be because the bumper around the number plate has been removed, however the intercooler is sat infront of the rad, so not much I can do about that unless I want to compromise intake temps. Rad fans packed up as well so got a new rad temp switch fitted and now when sat in traffic the fans are working and the car doesn't even get to 90 degrees, even when the oil is at 96. This is great if you are constantly blasting around flat out as the car stays cool, but when taking it easy its a bit of a problem. After run pump has also packed up. Doesn't even come on when the ignition is turned, which in my mind points to the pump itself and not the yellow sender. This is a right arse as they are not cheap, however I will bridge the terminals first to see if it still works or not. The T'stat housing was damaged when I removed it so replaced that. Re-used the rubber 'o' rings for the 3 senders and got 2 to seal but the black one was leaking like a swine so just bought a new one. Seems like everything that could go wrong with the cooling system has within the space of a week. Replaced the plugs with some platinum NGK ones that a lot of people on Vortex use and recommend. Only £40 for the set which was very reasonable. Lets hope thats it for a while as the car has been off the road longer than on so far in my ownership. I don't want to regret selling the S4 and buying this.

New 'stat fitted and no change, still runs cool when cruising. Could be because the bumper around the number plate has been removed, however the intercooler is sat infront of the rad. so not much I can do about that unless I want to compromise intake temps.

Don't really do much riding anymore myself. Tends to be once a year when we head to the Alps. Was planning on it again this year for our 4th time but decided with the main lift in Morzine being down I couldn't be arsed to explore new tracks on my own, the GF only rides the easier stuff that bores me and non of my friends ride anymore, or are injured, off doing other things etc. Probably head out again next year though where I will be doing this kind of thing again on my Trek Session 10. Fresh paint and stickers.

I went with Greenflag because they were the only company online who would do home recovery for a car of this age. Think it was about £85 for the year.

Tested them both in a mug of water and they both seem to open at the same temp. What else could be causing the car to run so cool as it will be constantly chucking in too much fuel when cruising?

Just removed the thermostat and tested it and it opens just fine in boiling water. The housing is a bit screwed so got to get a new one tomorrow. Will put it back together with the new T'stat and see what happens.

Mine is under the rear arm rest. Obvs a bit of a power drop between starter and battery so I use a solar trickle charger to keep it fully topped up. Use the thickest cable you can find to make sure you don't have any starting issues but with a healthy battery and alt you should be fine.

For the yellow sender? 701 919 369D Blue- 025 906 041A Thermostat- B 075 121 113D Think I will just do the Rad switch and thermostat first before I go ordering unnecessary senders.

Just checked GSF Thermostat £11.16 - premium quality one. Blue sender £8.88 Yellow sender not listed ---------- Post added at 2:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 2:32 PM ---------- Just found this, worth a pop at only 25% the price of the yellow one. And its made by German company Meyle. http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_...country_GB.htm ---------- Post added at 2:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 2:35 PM ---------- That link didn't work. http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Thermo-Switch-100-95C-20mm-Black-Blue-T4-and-VR6-Engines-701919369D_act_shop.product_pID_102766406_lang_EN_country_GB.htm

Just been to TPS and VW and was quoted the following prices for the VR. Thermostat £28.88 - not too bad. Blue Sender £20.58 - hmm, that seems a bit pricey. Yellow sender £37.98 - HOW FLIPPIN MUCH?!?! So with the 2 rubber 'O' rings I am looking at £90 :bad-words: So, anyone used cheaper alternatives with any success? Or anyone got these parts that are not too old as I REALLY don't wan't to be spending that on a couple of senders and a thermostat.

Probably a good call to do all 3, but will leave the black one, if the water ever got near 130 I would have stopped already. Looks like a right pig to get to the thermostat on mine.

When cruising at 70-80ish the water temp sits below 70degrees,so am thinking it is jammed open. Does this sound right? Also the after run pump seems to have stopped working and the coolant when stuck in traffic gets high, over 100. Think the fans have also stopped coming on. Guessing I have a dead sender and am hoping the 2 are related and not a dead aux pump as well as they are costly?

I am not saying the suspension system isn't old hat in comparison with new stuff, of course it is going to be crashy and more twitchy, but the speed I can taker corners in the 'Rado is far faster than if I were in other halves E91 BMW. The grip levels, even in the wet I find to be very high but then I haven't driven a modern hatch so can't compare to them.

Just been offered one for £12.50 posted so going to take that, cheers anyway.

How would a well set up Corrado (ARBs, coilovers, fresh bushes) fair against a modern hatch such as a Clio, Cupra or type R through the twisties? I am thinking there would not be a huge amount in it thanks to its low weight and centre of gravity.

Need the rubber seal that goes along the front of the scuttle to seal it from the engine bay.

Have you got the rubber seal that goes along the front of the scuttle to seal it from the engine bay?

What an awkward ******* of a job it was getting the wastegate bolts in, took me HOURS in the backing hot sun we had the week before last. Then when putting the V band clamp back on the turbo - exhaust I was not getting a good seal. After a few attempts I stripped the threads FFFFUUUUUUUUUUU:censored: Got a new one with a larger bolt and got it all back together on Thursday. New rear Ferodo Premiers have been fitted. Took a gamble on some new Ferodo DS2.11 racing front pads as they were cheap but they were too thick. Turns out the Wilwood superlite have 2 different thicknesses of calliper and I have the thinner one. This isn't a problem though as I know someone local who has offered to turn the down for me as they were clearance stock so I wan't to keep them. Once I have them at the correct size I will be replacing the front discs Also. New Kenwood HU has been fitted and looks like this.

Stumbled on this earlier whilst on ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volkswagen-Corrado-1-8-20V-Turbo-Syncro-4x4-not-R32-VR6-G60-Audi-S3-/130926403381?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item1e7bd25f35 Suprised it's not for sale on here, anyone know of it?

Love the seats, HATE the colour.

He owned a Lhasa Green mk1 gti as well. :geek:

Ha, had a go with AG super resin polish and it did nowt to remove the marks, so out came the T-cut, and what a brilliant job it did.

Still waiting on the bolts so had a front wheel off for a quick clean to see how it would come up. An hour later and it's almost like new. (apart from the kerbing)

Some stuff I got off ebay. Acoustic cloth or something like that. Beige may be a problem though as it seems to be black or dark grey.