VR6 Gar

That surprises me Sean, never any mention of that on the forum and it's not the sort of thing I would expect the majority would put up with.

Never actually made it before myself but the pictures always show a good turn out and there are normally a few Corrados there. Hopefully see you tomorrow Rog.

Anyone in the SW going to this? Weather looks like it will be ok and there is usually a really good turn out, with all your usual VAG stuff from mk1/2 golfs to RS4s and some other marquees such as BMW E21s, the odd porsche, Jap stuff etc. Starts at Exeter services at 11.00am then moves onto Budleigh Salterton car park at 12.30pm. Some photos from last year can be found here. http://www.swdubs.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=27062 A few teasers.

Seen a few pics on Vortex but would like a bit more explanation as to what is needed to fit a front arm rest. Thinking of buying a universal type one cheap off ebay to see if I can get it in a good position, don't want it to sit too high otherwise it is pointless as it will be uncomfortable.

Here you go Sean, need to trim a few bits and cut a hole for the ECU, easy enough with a dremel and small cutting disk. Replaced the upper and lower scuttle seals with a new universal type that you cut to size yourself. Also made a cold air box for the air filter. Not the prettiest but was rather awkward with the fuel pressure regulator being where it is.

Cards will have to come off. I find decent 6x9s run off an amp give more than enough bass, which keeps the boot space free. Never run the type of sub you mentioned but would imagine it would sound terrible if put behind the dash, would create a lot of rattles.

They are pretty resilient in my experience. Only got a cheap one and had smoke pouring out of it once a few years back from doing something I obviously shouldn't have been, still works perfectly :lol:

Never going to give up are ya Graeme, lol. Picked up this off ebay. mk2 golf scuttle tray. Not a fan of the swg ones, prefer the OEM look. Will keep my eyes peeled for a lhd version so I can make a full length one piece version from the 2. This is how it looked in the ad. Was expecting to have to spray it black or strip it back. Turns out the problem was the guy taking the photo couldn't work a camera and other than being a bit dirty and faded there was nothing wrong with it, quick clean and blacken up using Meguires tyre dressing and it looks great.

The way I do it is to disconnect the negative cable from the battery and make up the circuit using the multimeter. Set the MM to Amps obviously, which on some, like mine, means swapping the red cable across a hole.

Fitted the new battery today and it cranks over with such purpose now, way better than it ever has in my ownership. Must have been on its last legs for some time.

021121407 £29.15

Had a look and it is lower at 60ah @ 20 hour rate, more than enough to crank the car when charged properly. Ordered another @ £52.50 delivered. (Yuasa 075) Trickle charge is a no go so the new battery should solve the issue. Thanks again Sean.

Thought that was probably the case, cheers for the explanation on drain. Think the battery is the same one that James fitted when he built the car and put it under the arm rest, circa 4-5 years ago.

Got a problem where if I don't start the car for a week the battery has lost enough power for it to not start. Just did a test and it is drawing 0.09 amps. Before I lock it on the central locking it is only 0.03, but afterwards stays at 0.09 whether the car is locked/unlocked. Is this an acceptable level, wouldn't have thought 0.09 is enough to drain the battery in a week unless the battery is duff. Alt is putting out 14.31v at the batt. TIA.

Someone on ED38 just posted this up and it seems to work really well. http://ifinterface.com/page/page3.php?langid=2 Click on CarProg2 :thumbleft:

Best bet is to pull each fuse and see which one makes the hazards go off, this should point to where the problem lies. Does the car leak at all? If any water has made its way onto the relays/fuse box they don't like it.

I bought one of these a few weeks back. Bit cheaper and very similar to that one but without the LED and sockets. Very good build quality for the price I thought. http://www.sgs-engineering.com/hydraulic-jacks/trolley-jacks/tjl2-2-tonne-low-profile-trolley-jack

Yeah it doesn't seem like a pump issue as it would no doubt have problems starting again after it stalled, not just fire straight up and be fine. Car is running an 044 pump, swirl pot in the boot and am guessing a normal in tank pump to fill the pot. All relays were pushed in ok. Took the case off the pump relay and was in very good condition, no moisture or corrosion. Just need to drive it few more times to see if it happens again. Went out and gave it a few WOT pulls to and from Tesco and all was fine, 9 miles each way.

Had a wiggle of the wires earlier whilst it was running and nothing happened. Don't hear the pump priming when turning the key so wonder if that is the issue. Need to have a read through of James' build thread as I can't remember what he did with regards to the pumps.

This happened again but this time it was whilst coasting down a long hill. Turned it off on the key and back on and it started fine. Revshad dropped to 0 again. Thinking crank sensor or fuel pump relay. Anyone guess which one? Or maybe something else?

They don't come up often, think I just got lucky. My H&R came from ED38 and my Neuspeed from on here. May be worth seeing if anyone who has already done the rear is after a front bar. A KW kit can be had for £300 delivered from DCPefromance. According to some the rear is the same between platforms, so a mk2 golf bar should fit. But then Langers bought a bar that didn't fit so I am not convinced, easy enough to get any sellers to measure though, just need to know the width of the bar at the ends then measure the gap between the rear suspension mounts to see if they match.

Cant explain why exactly, all I know is you either do both or just the rear. Doing just the front will make the car far more under steer y. Also decreases the cars subtlety over bumps as it will be less forgiving.

Doing the front is not the most effective. Adding a rear bar will make the car far flatter in the corners and will reduce understeer, making it more balanced. I am running a standard front bar with Neuspeed 25mm rear and it is the perfect road setup IMHO. Did exactly the same to my last VR but with a H&R bar. Just doing the front will probably make the car handle like a dog.

Welcome along, looks like you did a great job saving that.:thumbleft: Get a build thread up so we can see what it used to look like.

Sorry I can't help you but can I ask why you only want to uprate the front when doing the back is the normal route?