Stonejag

Please could you price: Late driver's side front wing Late driver's side rear quarter panel (I basically need the wheel arch area behind the fuel filler) Late bonnet Driver's side door sill Driver's side floor pan Some of mine may be salvageable and I'm in no rush so may take some or all depending :) I can collect one weekend.

Bentley page 15-17 shows the bolt sequence, you do it in reverse to remove them. So 20 first (back right) then 19 (front right), then 18 (back left) etc. I assume it's probably OK to remove them all in one hit but I'd probably back them off until they're hand-tight first, then go around again to actually remove them just to be on the safe side. Bit worrying I know this off the top of my head but I've been reading about the head/valvetrain recently, that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it..! Stone ---------- Post added at 8:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:30 PM ---------- You don't usually remove the sprockets from the cams, instead you remove the outermost intermediate shaft sprocket to get the top chain off. But, if you're fitting new camshafts that come without the sprockets, you remove the top chain and then counterhold the existing camshafts using a 24mm open-ended spanner on the hex section near the sprocket end, which stops them rotating while you get the bolt out of the end holding the sprocket on. You have to do this without the camshaft locking tool in place (I assume because the VW one is plastic and would snap if you messed up!). All on Bentley page 15.28. Stone

I'll be buying extra timing gears anyway so I can fit them to the cams in advance (don't much fancy doing them up to 100nm in the bay!) so on top of that it'd just be the intermediate sprocket to change, no? I also thought the intermediate sprocket had to come out to do the upper chain..? Thanks for the tip :)

I got an Audi one from a breaker which fits in the pouch. Only just though! If it's not had one in for a while it will have shrunk and become a tight fit (fnarr). Stone

If you really want to do it on the cheap then you can always make a switch bypass cable and run it off that - crimp four bits of wire into one male spade terminal, then crimp four more spade terminals onto the loose ends. Should be obvious where they go ;) Just as secure as running it off a switch as you still need the key in the ignition to release the steering lock and disable the immobiliser. Whatever you do don't forget to insert the key! Having the steering lock on you as you back out of a parking space is not a fun feeling... :oops: Should keep you going until payday, but as above a new one is only around £25. Stone

Been reading up on timing chain replacement since I got some 263 cams in the group buy. I have a recently-rebuilt cylinder head which I'll be building back up to include the new cams and some shiny new innards, and then swapping out this head for my old one - which lets me take my time over the rebuild. Not sure as yet whether I'll be enthusiastic enough to replace both chains or just the top one! Since I'll be fitting new camshafts, and they don't come with the timing gears, I wondered if I could swap over to the timing setup from late-model (post-'97) AAA engines - with a single-row chain and the improved low-wear upper chain guide. In theory this would just involve swapping the chain, upper tensioner, timing gears and outer intermediate sprocket, then it'd let me run for much longer without ripping everything apart again. Anybody done this or am I being hopelessly optimistic? :) Cheers, Stone

Don't buy one, they're not worth £30. I only fitted it because I couldn't be arsed to send it back ;)

Not confident I'd want to try getting my plugs out with it, mind ;)

This is weird. Picked up a new guide funnel on eBay but it doesn't feel like a correct fit to my spare dipstick - which is the ring-ended type (021 115 611L). The ring clashes with the rim of the guide funnel. Did I just get sold the wrong part or is it supposed to be like that? :shrug: I bought this one: link Looks like it might fit a dipstick with the flattened triangular top (as in the above posts) though. Might try test-fitting it tomorrow... Stone

If it's the one with the thick, hard-to-bend black cable terminated in a small three-pin brown connector, it's for the immobiliser. Stone

Awesome GTI sell them pre-doctored: http://www.awesomegti.com/car/vw/corrado/genuine-audi-r8-oil-cap Removed mine in the end as they're shiny plastic (not metal) so when they get grubby they start to look a bit crap. Also wasn't a great fit in my engine cover plate, but I have a metal aftermarket one so it may fit OK in the normal DOHC plastic cover. The rest of my bay highlights are orange so the standard black plastic one with orange text looked a lot better. Stone

Another flood of Scirocco-related ones from me. Including "Oooh, nice, I used to have a Scirocco too!" Me: "Was it back when your eyes worked?" "Shame it's an auto" always winds me up, though the best variation was "Oh, I see you've gone for the lightweight clutch pedal" :lol:

Exactly what I said. Ended up buying the C instead! It'll be a bad Corrado year if I've spent more on upgrades/fixes than I would have lost in depreciation. Plus I'm learning new things all the time, with a Mk3 Scirocco I'd have been chained to the dealership with a direct debit open... Stone

On the bright side, them being so busy gave me the shove to rebuild my head on my own! It started as a set of new cams and escalated :lol:

It should be on as long as the ignition is on, plus some afterrun. Don't think it's that vital, mine's been jammed for months :lol: Stone

The Kübelwagen? In fairness they were awesome!

Done. PM me payment details and I'll do it in the morning :)

Which sender did you replace? I assume the yellow one (now black with a blue stripe if you buy new/VW). Just checking as my car has three :)

Info here: http://www.corrado-club.ca/mods/oldspoiler.html Easy to do if you have the tools, potential to wreck an expensive spoiler control module if you don't ;) Stone

A broken striker arm will make it behave exactly as you describe - the pully outy bit goes floppy. Don't forget to dig around in the bottom of the door while you have the door card off to find the broken bits... Also make sure you get the circlip on the back of the lock cylinder on correctly, if it pings off you end up losing the actuator+spring+flat disc piece+circlip down the inside of the door - lock will still work (on the central locking switch) but if you pull the key out too hard the cylinder will come with it! Also be sure to route the central locking cable correctly - wind the window slowly up and down with the door card off to be sure. If you get it wrong then the cable gets mashed by the descending window and your central locking will randomly lock and unlock as you drive - distracting! Ask me how I know... :roll: Stone [on second pasenger's door handle and driver's fourth!]

Can you turn the sound recording off for extra storage space? Tbh the only thing that's been putting me off one of these lately is the thought of it recording all my dodgy car singing :lol:

You need to surround the image address with img tags or they won't render properly. To save others (and me!) the hassle of viewing them individually, here they are split out: Would love this but the next £2k bill will be my respray and I can't justify it :) Good luck with the sale. Stone

Bump. Nobody?

Should be 535 827 527 "seal". Being a 535 (Corrado) number it's probably been discontinued - there are similar part numbers from Golf/Scirocco/T2/Mk1 Golf cabrio but they all look shallower. I didn't realise it was a separate part since my last one came with a replacement boot lock... Stone

Ignition switch is easy to bypass, though you still need the key to unlock the steering lock and it won't start anyway if the immobiliser is duff! A factory immobiliser not receiving the right code (or which has forgotten / been reprogrammed wrong) should start and run for 2 secs and then cut out. The coil is easy enough to change if you don't mind unplugging things to give yourself enough cable clearance, a Mk3 Golf or Polo part will work - though there's an extra tab on the connector which needs shaving off. If it's an aftermarket alarm / immobiliser then all bets are off, they're traditionally fitted by cutting out big lumps of the loom and not renowned for longevity... Stone