Tigerfish

My only comment was going to be the cam belt as mentioned earlier. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Thanks [emoji846] If it is pre-built with sumps in mind then holes are drilled in the tank, with a weir round them to over flow and be taken down to the sump via the pipe work. You can see some of the pipe work in this pic. I have 4 drain and 2 return pipes drilled. If the tank isn't drilled, you can buy add on overflows/weirs, or make durso standpipes to take the water down to a sump. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Totally amazing [emoji41] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I've currently got Grey leather interior and door cards, but the dash, centre console etc are black. Anyone got a grey interior up for sale, excluding seats and door cards. At worst, looking for dash, centre console and glovebox. Delivered to Basingstoke. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Looking forward to seeing the first Corrado build with that conversion [emoji41] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

These are the two tanks. For external filters, there are lots of good ones about head days. Eheims are well built and go on forever, Fluval ones have always served me well too. The 10 foot tank runs two Fluval Fx5's and an Aquamanta EFX 600. Can't fault it either, cheap compared to the Eheims and Fluvals, but performs really well. The specific models I've got would be too big for your plans, but the smaller brother models would all work well. Tetratec canisters are also good. The marine tank runs a sump, and given my time gain with the freshwater tank, I'd have gone sump on that as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Currently only got 2 tanks (used to have 11 a few years back), a 10x2x2 tropical freshwater, and a 8x2x2.5 marine. Happy to help with any advise if I can. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Agree with above, I can't see previously cleared faults on my vagcom/rosstech. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

No internal issues are going to get oil on the HT leads (well, only very terminal ones like rods through the block... lol), so the rocker cover gasket and/or oil spills from top ups and/or badly fitting filler cap would be the favourite candidates. The breather from the rocker cover can drip as well. Are the plugs actually oily on the electrode of the plug? Or just oil running down the plug when unscrewing it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Finally got some grey leather front door cards installed to match the seats and rear cards [emoji846] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

That's awesome, some quality metal there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Can't see any pics yet, but do you mean one of these adapters? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300389853222 Or the other way round https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321347922788 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Nice photo shopping B) Never really liked the smooth bumper look, especially not as the car is then unsmoothed by sticking the number plate on in a random place... lol Like the idea of the side repeaters though :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I've got one like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162128872837 Works great and used it to redo all the brake lines on the VR Happy to pop it in the post and just send it back when you've done if it helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I just cut the tab off the new switch, so it isn't screwed in either. The thing is, the plug clips into the metal of the steering lock housing, not the switch, so the switch can't go anywhere unless you unclip the plug. So I'm just not sure what a tie wrap would do, weird. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Sorted today. Had a quick 5 minute try to get the screw out. Then took a screwdriver and hammer to the old one. Out in a couple of minutes. Only thing I found odd is I've seen it mention quite often to tie wrap the new one in. I couldn't see any reason to tie wrap anything. The wiring connector clips into the metal surround, so the switch won't go anywhere anyway.

Does the spoiler work from the switch?

I used 3M VHB tape, hasn't let go so far.

I don't recognise that, the vacuum actuator is further up and the rod connecting it to the rest of the lock mechanism is obvious. Maybe an aftermarket alarm actuator for central locking?

Looking very good. Same rims I run on mine [emoji41]

Yeah, I'll be using the key still, just the switch behind it will be hanging down for the drive home.

Cheers all :)

Ignition switch decided to give up the ghost this evening and car won't start. Got a new switch on order. I've seen a few threads about the pesky screw that holds the switch in, but wanted to know if the connector to the switch can be unplugged easily? I'd sooner just unplug the broken one, plug in a new switch, start the car to get it home, and then deal with swapping the switch over once home. Is it as simple as that? Cheers

If they don't have the load resistors in, they may not be drawing enough current to make the relay work correctly. Are you changing just one at a time? Do they work if you try the hazards instead?

I'll dig out a link later as I can't get to my eBay history at the moment. They were about £30 for the pair, made in the USA. They were a tight fit!