corradophil

Is it your teeth? Mine (16v) rattled for a few seconds when cold, definately the lifters. I've just cleaned the oil pump pick up strainer out. It was about 20%-30% blocked. Oil pressure is now on average 1 bar higher at low revs, plus it rattles for about 1 second now on a cold start. May well be worth cleaning the strainer, even if it does not stop the rattle it will provide better oil pressure. Do you have an oil pressure gauge? On mine the pressure goes up to 6 bar within a couple of seconds on a cold start.

Senna was the first name I thought of when I saw the title, used to love watching Senna, Prost and Mansell battling it out.

Ohh yes please. PM sent Thanks Cheesy.

tallpaul1977, I had no problems with the dbw being slow to respond to inputs. Obviously there is a little turbo lag i.e. you put your foot down and a second or so later the turbo is starting to do it's stuff. To be honest the only time I ever had a problem with the responsivness was pulling out onto roundabouts at low revs when you needed to accelerate quickly. You kind of pull out very slowly into the path of an oncoming car and then just when it gets close it comes on boost and drags you out of harms way. After a while I got used to accelerating earlier and that was not a problem.

225bhp is was also fitted to Leon Cupra R's. I think the 210bhp ealier engine is just as tunable, and I'm sure I read somewhere it is actually stronger, maybe something to do with conrod design, but I can't remember. Alternatively go for an AUQ 180bhp from the TT or Leon Cupra.

16v callipers work with the 280mm carriers, but the pads are too thick, 256mm discs are thinner than 280mm, so you have to remove some pad material - not ideal. I'd change the callipers and carriers to convert to G60 spec, which is what I did. I used Mk3 Golf components though as they were easier to find than a G60 Corrado in the breakers...

bristolbaron, Make sure you post your views on them once bedded in, it would be good to hear a direct comparison between the Pagid and EBC pads. A lot people seem to slate the Greenstuff pads, but like the Pagid ones.

Click me Click on expanded 3d view! A Corrado one of these would be good.

Reading through this and other threads Pagid FR pads seem pretty popular but appear to be no longer available, and now under the Textar name. I personaly am not that imporessed by mine. There are two other pads which seem popular 1. Mintex 1144. 2. Ferrodo DS2500. So anyone tried both of these? It would be nice to come to a conclusion for which pad is best.

:lol: It makes me smile. The noise it makes reminds me of the old Audi A4 touring cars when its reving hard. It's not got too much mid range grunt unlike your G60, but once you hit 4000 rpm it really comes alive. I had to be very on the ball to keep with the Leon, they have tons of mid range power, so are a bit easier to keep at a quick pace.

Not bad is it. Its just about to role over to 160,000 miles with no bottom end work as far as I know. It's had new stem seales, but not guides, and a few d.i.y mods. It runs like a dream, I set the mixture up as per bosch instructions, just passed it's mot with similar CO and lower HC than my dads Mk4 Golf! It runs a standard gsf CAT too. Got to say the Leon was hardest to keep with, but the old valver was howling it's way round to almost 7k rpm and coming up with the goods. This is what makes me love VWs, I've given every car I've owned (all VAG) some real greef and the engines never ever let go. If they did I would not dare complain. I agree about getting involved in races though, not the cleverest thing, but it is fun as long as you don't get carried away and try to push harder than what you are comfortable with. Also had a go with a Fiesta ST on a duel carriage way from a roundabout to about 75mph, when I was gradually creeping ahead and thought point made, time to back off.

It was a match for my valver with 162bhp, so it probably would beat a std valver. My Leon felt way faster than my C. Never had it on a dyno, but you can roughly calculate the power by measuring the airflow reading from the maf, it calculated at around 192 bhp. Mine goes well in 3rd too. 1st is good if you balance the throttle and don't let it wheelspin, 2nd always feels dissapointing, then after that it does feel like a quick car.

Had a burn with a Mitsubishi FTO, mine had 4 Porsche wheels with tyres, plus another with no tyre as extra ballast in the back. We were very evenly matched to around 90 when I backed off. My mates F reg £250 bargain off ebay Mk2 Golf 16v which had not run for two years, till we bought it and found mice had chewed through the fuel pump power cables. Scarely in second from 30 to 60, evenly matached again. I reckon I'd get the better of him in 3rd gear. A friends Seat Leon Cupra 180bhp, interesting one this, beacuse I used to own one. I thought I'd be left behind, but no my C is a match for it.

Trouble is they are styled to suit the masses, lots of mums who can't stretch to the budget of a real MPV. As a mumsy car it's probably quite good. They make what people will buy.

I think we all have, but its well hidden. 1. Put the wipers on intermittent. 2. Turn the off. 3. After the required delay put them back on intermittent, the time interval will be the time they were off for! It resets to 6 seconds when the ignition is switched off. Well clever set up, shame they didn't make it more obvious.

Yeah, that took me by suprise, I actually felt quite light headed on some parts, where you drop down a hill, and then go up again.

On my second lap the brakes pretty much dissapeared due to heat, I had to take it easy for a minute or so, then they were back, so I picked up the pace again.

As long as the it's on good condition with no problems, you should not need to worry. My laps were all done in a Vento 1.8CL lowered on 17s - It was great. Unless you know the track well you won't have time to think, "Hmmm I don't want that car beating me". Oh yeah, you will be going pretty quick too, so overheating should not be an issue, appart from the brakes!

I don't know, but the part number you have given is for item number 2. If that is the part you want to replace, I'd go by the part number.

It is there under Engine. (2) 191199201D engine carrier with rubber mounting http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/COR/1993/76/49/842755/

The blue Golf of course. Probably whatever came off the truck first, as long as I get to drive them all, I'm not fussy what order I do it in.

Its a must do for anyone who loves driving quickly in demanding conditions. The only damaged my mates car suffered when we went was a broken front spoiler from a big pot hole in one of the viewing areas.

A while ago someone posted the address of an online version of etka. That site now appears to be updated and a bit more official. You can register for free, and are allowed to look at parts for two cars only, but you can change the cars you can view. They appear to be trying to keep it a free resource for people like us, but charge trade users for full access. I think it is in a very early stage at the moment, because I cannot veiw any parts, but no doubt that will be resolved soon. Anyway have a look at http://www.vagcat.com Edit: I can now view parts!

I understand what you mean, but unless your car or boot has been cut and shut accross it's width then I cannot see how this can happen... Does the boot line up properly everywhere else? Are all the shuts even and a reasonable size, is the top of the boot level with the rear of the roof?

That definately won't help your car run properly! You may be able to remove the pin from the orinal connector and make a nice repair, otherwise you could ommit the original connection and use spade connectors.