corradophil

scarlett, Tomorrow there will be a Green 16v on Azevs outside your house :wink:

I think they got that a bit wrong, looks like a hybrid Chrysler Neon and Dodge Ram.

Just imagine trying that in a Corrado, pull up at the scene of the accident, carfully shoehorn someone onto the back seat to have a lay down. :lol:

On sunday two corrados near Farnham, one red one pulling out of a junction as I was turning into it. Burgandy VR6 with Lupo wipers I keep passing you between Burnham-on-Crouch and South Woodham Ferrers. Green L reg Corrado with crystal rear lights and 17" wheels at Boreham interchange at about 2pm today.

Excellent, very usefull

I know its :offtopic1: but what has happened to Henny recently, he hardly ever posts now.

:lol: Well I've got to have something to feel happy about when speaking to you people with Supercharged VR6s. Seriously though, I had the same problem and considered bending the lip too, speaking from experience with bodywork (I spent 3 1/2 years working in a bodyshop) there is a good chance that you could cause distortion to the door if you are not very carefull. Give it a go, but just be very careful. Another option is to fill the hollow cavity in the ruuber with some sort of foam, I tried this with limited improvement because over time the foam moulded to the shape of the rubber and the gap reappeared - maybe a different foam would work ok. How large is the gap between the steel lip at the top of the door and the glass? From memory mine was 10mm - 15mm.

I agree they should apply loads of pressure, but they are supposed to make light contact, as mine do. I have not made any changes to the seal or door and the fit is perfect. To those thinking about bending the lip of the door inwards a little to move the seal closer, I would not risk it, it would be a difficult job to do properly and my VW seals fit perfectly. Has anyone replaced the plastic rollers which run in the channels at the base of the window glass. On Corrado Club Canada's, this is the suggested fix for rattly windows.

More footage of Corrados being driven would be cool. It might be an interesting feature if a speedo shot could be seen too, so you can get a feel for how fast a few different spec cars are. Oh and the turbo motorbike from fastpurple would be a good clip to include, come to think of it maybe some "off topic clips" which are paticularly interesting could be included if you have enough space. Maybe the menu screen could be done in the same format as the forum, so its just like using the forum. I suppose what I would like to see is a Corrado Forum DVD featuring the stealth rolling road day. Either way I'll be buying a copy.

Looks good, nice to see another tidy valver. Oh and G60 power, have a look at my signature, it can be done!

Very cool site, straightforward and clear to use, and no silly intro animations etc. I'll certainly look there first when buying tools in the future.

I have an LUK in my valver and have no problems whatsoever, if it was me I'd go with LUK.

With the scraper seal removed the gap between the window and the lip on the door is even all the way along on mine. I had the same problem, but now have brand new seals from VW which fit tight to the glass.

It measures the temperature in the engine bay.

That is really cool.

That is lovely, there are very few cars I would chose over one of those.

Funny you should say that, I've always wanted a BMW, I really like them, but everytime I've been able to afford the model I want I decide I want the newer version which I cannot afford.

Mine have steel extentions on them to reduce the angle, I still need to use blocks of wood too! Mine just about gets up them!

I use some really old Halfords ones.

The front top mounts include bearings. Id get it all from GSF personaly.

Chay, Is this based on what the MFA is saying? How many miles do you get from a tank? I get around 400 miles, my MFA shows a long term average of 30mpg and on a motorway run I get 34mpg. If you get similar milage, I suggest you check the small vaccum hoses at the rear of the engine bay. If you have a leak in one of those you will get a bad reading on the MFA.

I would certainly change the front top strut mounts while it is apart. If you can stretch to it I'd go for new poly bushes for the front suspension and oem rear beam bushes. Get it all fitted set the ride height (FKs are adjustable on the rear) then get it all correctly aligned. As mentioned before make sure you get the correct kit for your car. I'd find out the correct part number from the manufacturer and order it quoteing that number.

Well I do around 50 miles per day and have no complaints.

I did mine without a puller too, using various washers, bolts etc. Probably took 2 hours to change the bushes with the beam off the car. The biggest headache of the whole job for me was bleeding the brake system through after I stupidly let the fluid drain out - I was concentrating 100% on doing the bushes and everything else went out the window. Definately could not have changed them with this method on the car, although if I were fitting poly bushes I'd give it a go.

I did the same on mine at similar miles. The front one was shot to pieces, the gearbox one was not too bad, and I left the rear one alone.