corradophil

Interesting, although I did not look in to this area too much as I was doing a D.I.Y. job, the book shows both valves and seats machined.

I'm not 100% sure, but I think you get the originals machined.

The back of a standard valve and ir's seat are machined at a 45 deg angle, 3 angle seats are machine at 60 deg and 30 deg. Apparently this alone can give a very large inrease in airflow, up to 25%!! It would appear to be very worthwhile. I didn't do this on mine, but if I ever pull the head off again I will seriously consider it.

Very nice, thats some serious power for an N/A 2.0 road engine.

I opened the ports out very slightly, tidied up casting marks and anything I felt would hurt the airflow. Before starting I did a lot of research on the net, plus read a book called "How to Buildm modify & Power Tune Cylinder Heads (ISBN 1-901295-45-1) which was useful. I'm quite sure I could get more power with a head flowed by a proffesional, but it would have cost a lot more.

I opened them out a little and matched them to the manifolds, I also spent quite alot of time on the exhaust and inlet manifolds. It didn't make a massive difference, probably similar to the difference the KR inlet cam made. It was a bit of an experiment and a learning experience so any gains were good in my opinion.

As a quick short term fix, you may find it is only the end of the hose which is split, if you are lucky you may have enough length to cut the damaged end off and re-fit it.

I'm no expert on G60s, having necer owned one, but the leak it your photo looks suspiciously like it is coming from one of the fuel hoses. I strongly advise you are definate there are no fuel leaks before running the car.

I did my own too. I used an electric drill and flexi shaft. A die grinder is a far better bet, but I didn't have my compressor then. I used a combination of burrs and flapwheels on mine. I'd like to pull it off and do some more work on it, but it is running perfectly so i'll probably leave it alone.

steve_16v, Yes, both mirrors clicked. Sounds like you have the same problem. It's worth spending 30mins taking it out to have a look. You only have to remove the trim on the drivers side door handle, unscrew the two screws it reveals and unplug the electrical connection and it is off the car. Unclip the switch from the handle then carefully take it apart. Be carefull not to lose anything, there are some small parts in there. DEL VR6, I found if I wiggled the button around I could coax the drivers side one into working a bit.

Yep, I gave the dumbells a good clean up too. Mine has always illuminated fine.

I finally bought a pair of new wing mirror glasses at the weekend, whilst fitting them I noticed neither mirror would adjust. It has always been a bit hit and miss, one day they work then they don't. Eventualy one side started to work, but nothing from the other. I thought it was the adjustment mechanism, but it was not. After a lot of sodding around with the mirror mechanisms with no improvement I took the switch out of the drivers door, and took it apart. Mines a late car but I would imagine the same could easily apply to early ones too. Basically there is a small printed circuit board which the moving contacts of the switch have to connect to. The copper on the board was very dirty with what looked like burnt on grease all over it. Using brasso I polished the contacts up to a bright shiny finish. I reassembled the switch and both mirrors now work perfectly! This took half an hour to do, and I highly recommend giving it a go if your mirrors do not adjust.

Not to bad for a weedy old valver. The weight was taken from Corrado Club site. Power at Flywheel (BHP) : 162 Weight without Driver (KG) : 1100 Power to Weight Ratio (BHP Per Ton) : 149.64 0 - 60 (Secs) : 7.19 0 - 100 (Secs) : 19.47 60 - 100 (Secs) : 12.27 Quarter Mile (Secs) : 15.63 Terminal Speed (MPH) : 89.60 Drag Strip Quarter Mile (Secs) : 15.43 Drag Strip Terminal Speed (MPH) : 91.16

Ok you've pursuaded me to give it a clean up and re-lubricate, but leave it alone other than that.

Hmmm, maybe a quick service instead then. Thanks for the kind offer but I'll have to leave it for the moment. :lol:

They look very good to me. Although I am very tempted by design 90's at the moment.

I have been working my way through a long list of bits to sort on my C, and I finally am down to 3 items one of which is to rebuild the sunroof mechanism. I have read through all the how to guides etc, and I'm happy I can do the job without any problems. The sunroof still slides and tilts ok, but as far as I know it has never been touched from new. I've read that when the mechanism lets go there is a good chance the outside of the sunroof will get scratched, so I am considering re-building with all the new bits because I'd rather not have to spray the sunroof. Is it worthwhile doing this and should I replace all the items mentioned in the repair guides, or is the risk of scratching the outside very small?

True, but if you've managed to get that far, removing the old oem ones is easy, I used a drill to hack the rubber out - 2 mins work, then I was left with the steel outer, which I carefully hacksawed a groove into and then with a hammer knocked/peeled the steel away. With the beam off the car I could remove both original rear bushes in 30mins. Pressing in the new oem bushes was more difficult, bu tif you have Powerflex ones that should be easy too.

:lol: Made me smile when I saw it. I was quite concerned this morning. The thought of my car being burnt out is not a good one.

CoxyLaaaaaaaad!, You were almost right, not a Tesco bag but some red and white stripy warning tape stuff, wrapped around the exhaust just before the centre silencer where the hangers are. Well done mate, saved me a lot of messing around looking for more complicated things. Just need to get it up on the ramps tonight to pull it all off.

It's kind of a sweet smell, not really like burning brakes or clutch or for that matter like a burnt electrical component. No I haven't actually. Not even thought of that one - good idea.

Nope, although not had the bonnet open for a couple of weeks, so there is a possibility of an oil leak - something definate worth looking for. Cheers.

Last night when I drove home, there seemed to be alot of people with bonfires, or so I thought. This morning driving to work more people were having bon fires. When I arrived at work and got out of my car I could smell burning again. So, I am now suspicious that it is my car. I am going to have a good look round it at lunchtime. There are several things I have in mind to check, but it would be useful to hear if anyone else has experienced this and what they found was causing it. So far, I'm thinking: Heater fan, obviously this has been used a fair bit in the cold weather, but I can smell the burning outside of the car. Clutch, the clutch is not slipping, so I don't think it is this. Brakes binding, I've been leaving the handbrake off overnight and the rears definately are not binding, I could feel the car role a little as I got in. Will check the discs for any signs of getting hot ie looking blue. There is no obvious increase in fuel consumption or reduction in performance. Wiring, a tricky one to check, because so much of it is covered up, but I'll do my best. I don't think it is the usual one where you get smoke around the steering column from the indicator switch - I've has that already and sorted it, there is no smoke at the moment. Engine bay, obviously I will be having a good look around under the bonnet. Any additional thoughts would be much appreciated.

My Azev H which are 7.5J x 17 weigh approximately 21Kg including 205/40/R17 Toyo Proxes IIRC.

Look nice enough to me. Very BBS stylie. What size are you going for? How much?