corradophil

That is spot on, and I like it with the early grill.

That's certainly impressive, makes me wonder how much mine is being held back by the KE-Motronic and wether a re map to suit my engine spec would be a good idea.

I don't fancy changing the manifold to re-fit the cat for the mot every year, so not really for me - Sorry.

If we expanded it to other German cars it wouldn't be "THE Corrado Forum" it would be "A German car forum". Keep it Corrado only.

Does it pull to the left if you drive on the right hand side of the road? Roads are built with camber the the edge is lower than the centre to aid dranage. I wouldn't be suprised if it pulled to the right whilst driving on the right hand side.

Where are you measuring from and to? Try measuring top centre of arch to centre of wheel and floor. Also try coming off suspension mounting points bolts which should be accurare. First of all though I would try to find a very flat surface.

I really like both of them. American muscle cars have so much character and personality, definately cars built with some passion, not just as a machine to transport people from a to b.

Could be a mod for the future on mine.. Do you notice much difference in noise, and is there any knocking or extra vibration? I need to keep my car reasonably refined because I'm doing 300-400 miles per week. Do you have any photos of it on and off the car?

That is my understanding too, as far as I know the KR and 9a block and head are dimensionaly the same externaly. Has anyone compared a tubular manifold to a nicely fettled standard one? I spent an afternoon with a grinder tidying up and port matching my std one. Not sure what improvement if any was made, because I did it whilst modifying the head and inlet manifold. I understand the theory behind tubular manifolds, but for the money does it make enough difference to be worthwile on a road car?

Advantage in Witham give print outs, I have one for mine from there.

Agreed, and before you go any further have a listen for any new rattling/knocking noises from the engine. If there are any switch off right away, and have the oil strainer and pump checked out.

Sounds like the oil pressure warning to me. Either its a false alarm or the pressure is low. If the pressure gets too low you can do some serious damage to the engine. Have you checked the oil level recenlty?

A mate used to get his 2.1 mk2 Golf on Webers tuned by John Mowett, apparently he's very good. Otherwise Advantage in Witham or Race Power Motorsport near Bluewater have a rolling road.

Mine have got a single fixing screw and a base with a pin which you push through the carpet. The problem I've had before is the base would get pulled out as the mat moves around. I've postioned the matt hard against the front seat runner mount, this will stop the mat and mount sliding backwards and working free. Hope this works, but only time will tell. I tried velcro, using the hook part to stick to the carpet, but it would not stick at all, the only way of doing it would be to use both part of the velcro either sewn or glued to the carpet and underside of the mat.

True, might be an idea, i'll have a look for their website. Halfords could be a good one actually, although I've never noticed them there. I tried velcro and it didn't work to well.

The mats in my C have always moved around, does everyone else just live with this, or is there an easy way of solving it. I'm going to have a look and see what I can come up with at the weekend, but thought I would see how others have solved it first.

Drive it, the money you would spend buying, insuring, taxing and maintaining a banger will probably easily cover the extra fuel costs of a VR, plus leave some for maintenance and a few nice bits for it. Mine spent a year being a second car, and it got very damp inside just sitting around. It's much better now it's doing what it was intended for.

Really, that sounds like a bargain, before I started messing around with my valver I spoke to quite a few people about gas flowed heads and cams, they were all trying to persuade me to go for a 1.8t transplant, which they would do for around £4K-£5K about 2 years ago.

I do like the 1.8t, it's an impressive engine, but I would not replace a VR6 with one. If you had a valver, then yes, but you've gotta stick with a 6 cylinder.

If it was everyday use - Audi S3, but as you only want a weekend car the TVR appeals way more than the others, it's in a different league IMHO.

Got to agree with that, mine has uprated wiring/relays with Philips vision plus bulbs, I can now see at night.

The strengthening brace between the seam of the rear box and the pipe split where it was welded on mine, plus the silencers needed re-packing, oh and I had to adjust some of the bends to make it fit properly. Other than that my Magnex is fine. :?

The long hose connected to the airbox operates a flap to switch between cold and hot air intake. The cold air is drawn from behind the O/S headlight, the hot air from the exhaust manifold via a large ducting pipe if it's still there.

The side of the airbox. There is a round diaphragm which it operates.

There's a whole heap of stereo gear in there, make sure you wear protection (for your ears). Your old Audioscape sub box is nicely re-trimed in grey and looking good in my boot now.