corradophil

Have a look at page two of this thread http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... r&start=15

I'm a lucky bugger then :lol:

Ok, this is what I posted in the VDO gauges thread. "Yep, as I mentioned before, look on top of the oil cooler where there are two switches, there is a thrid hole blanked by a allen bolt. Had to remove the switch and put it in the blanked hole, then put the sender in the hole the switch came from, because there is more room. I bought my sender brand new in a VW box stamped VDO from Blackman Motors in Kent (01580) 291146 for £17 inluding vat and delivery."

I used a single pole sender screwed into the top of the oil cooler - no need for a t peice on a valver. There are 3 drilled and tapped holes on the top of the cooler, two of which are used by switches, the spare is blaned with an allen bolt. I'll post details of the suppliers of the sender in a minute, just got to go and find them :wink:

On the front of the block between no. 1 & 2 cylinders and 3 & 4. They are black and round, approx 20mm dia. with a bolt going through the centre and one black cable coming off them. If you cannot find em, do a search, I posted photos of them in a previous thread.

I weighed one of mine a while ago, I think it was around 21Kg for wheel and tyre.

There is a hole in the storage area of the centre console, its at the back on the top. There is a rubber grommet type thing there to run the cables through. I also ordered the multi pin connector and 4 wires as mentioned in RW1's post near the start of this thread. I'll post a photo on Monday, I'm going to Ireland tomorrow for the weekend. Yep, as I mentioned before, look on top of the oil cooler where there are two switches, there is a thrid hole blanked by a allen bolt. Had to remove the switch and put it in the blanked hole, then put the sender in the hole the switch came from, because there is more room. I bought my sender brand new in a VW box stamped VDO from Blackman Motors in Kent (01580) 291146 for £17 inluding vat and delivery.

Fitted mine today, I only had a single pole sender, but on a valver you don't need to use a T piece, there is a spare hole on the oil cooler blanked by a bolt!

Not too shaby is it.

aposegil, Interesting links, I take it the racesolutions figures are all the wheels. IIRC mine made 120bhp at the wheels. Therefore about 26% transmission losses, sounds about right?? Following this pcordova's car is producing around 205bhp at the fly assuming 26% tranmission losses.

Blimey, I bet that wasn't cheap to do. Sounds like a lot of fun though.

Ah ok, so really its the diameter of the magnex which can cause a restriction and reduce power.

I'm really not sure on that, it is something I have considered. When I was doing a lot of engine work, my dad was also pretty interested and contacted Bosch about re-mapping the ecu and problems with fuelling. From what Bosch said and from what I've read the adaptive closed loop lambda control on the KE-Motronic "might" actually sort the fueling out itself. Information on this seems to be a bit vague, so I'd be interested in other peoples thoughts on this. It would be cool to get a little more out of my valver, and give those G60s and VR6s a run for their money 8)

I'll have a search for it, I'm interested to know what is wrong with the design, surely its a straight through silencer with a perforated pipe running through the middle surrouned by sound deadening material.

Cool, look forward to seeing it.

I'll give it a go and post my thoughts in this thread.

Mine is a 9A with KR cams, I've tidied up the ports and matched the manifolds, basically I have done my best at a DIY gas flowed head and manifolds. It has a magnex cat back system and still has a cat, beleive it or not I prefer it's power with the cat - I've swapped between cat and cat bypass several times. Mine made 162bhp and 152Ibft with the ignition timing at 6 deg BTDC, I've since advanced it to 8 deg and noticed an improvement, particularly in mid range power. From what you are saying I could gain more by advancing to 11-13 deg. I will have a go over the next week or so. Do you reckon there is more power to be gained from mine, or do you think the timing advance you mention is only really right with Schricks? By the way I had Schrick 268/276 cams in it for a month or so, got nowhere with them, coincedently I was doing this at the same time as GVK on club GTI, who also gave up on them.

Have a look here, a couple of people have made a very good job of doing this. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... ole+gauges

It's not as bad to do as I thought it would be. It's possible in a day without rushing. The biggest hassle I had was forgetting to plug the hydraulic brake lines, which meant bleeding the braking system through from scratch.

That is excellent, I want one in my C, that would be soo funny scaring the shit out of all the little chavs who think they're so hard hanging around the town causing hassle.

:lol: I can be very impatient when I want to be, plus I don't think my boss was too happy about me taking an hour and a half for lunch. Cheers for sorting it out for me though mate, do doubt you'll hide next time I come in. :wink:

:cheers: Just got mine from ManBoo! Well pleased, just got to fit them now. :)

Cool, please stop posting photos of NZ, I really want to go there again! Three friends are living in Queenstown at the moment, and its so tempting to go and join them. Driving there was so much better than the UK.

Adjustable platforms, so you can be low normal conditions, and high in occasional snowy conditions, although you geometry would be out. A set of 17" wheels for normal conditions and a set of spacesavers with knobly tyres for snow. I used to have the wheels in the first photo on my Mk2 Golf - they are a git to clean.

Agreed, and if it was my car I wouldn't leave it that long. On my dads Mk4 non turbo 20V, he changed the timing belt, at 60,000 miles, but not the tensioner, he then changed the belt and tensioner at 120,000 miles. At around 124,000 miles he randomly decided to inspect the belt, and to his horror the back of it was cracking. There is a small idler pulley (not the tensioner) which had seized due to bearing failure and cooked the new belt.