corradophil

I think a lot of aftermarket companies coat their springs red. I have had Jamex and FK, both of which have been red. I am running a complete FK setup on my Corrado, which is ok. Maybe you should try and buy a set of FK gas shocks. On previous cars I had Cofap gas shocks which worked fine too.

:lol: I looked at the 1st photo and thought it was a nappy changing mat for a baby!

Gas, flowed head,decent exhaust, WUR mod and make sure it is all set up correctly.

That looks very wrong, but very cool.

I want to drive slowly but just can't do it, certainly not in good road conditions anyway.

Standard bhp ranges from 150 bhp to 225 bhp. Fitted to Mk4 Golfs, Passats, probably Sharans, Seat Leons, Ibizas, loads of Audis, Skodas too I think. I had a 180 bhp one as standard in a Seat Leon Cupra. Went very well. I sold the whole car for £3500, that had a 6 speed box too.

That is a beautiful C, very nicely done.

Yep, you'll be pretty dissapointed if you don't, but I'm quite sure you'll see 170bhp - 185bhp. Looking forward to reading about it. Depends on the rollers too, mine was at the CF rolling road day at Advantage in Essex, Crazymarcel's VR6 was quoted as having 10 bhp more by stealth than what he got at Advantage, so maybe mine would've been around 170bhp at stealth. I'm going to be doing some work on the throttle body soon, and playing with different ignition timing settings. I've already advanced the timing a little and noticed an improvement.

You better not get more than 162 BHP or I'll have to do some more to mine. I'm starting feel like my valver is a bit weedy.

Where did you hide it? :lol:

Quite a few years ago a mate damaged two Borbet wheels on a pothole, the council did pay up and repaired the road too.

Based on 5000 members thats £70 each for the deposit, and if we pass it around day by day, each member should have it once every 14 years - cool.

Trouble is, if you going that route it makes sense to just buy one, but belfastfumanchu wants to keep his valver. Don't get me wrong I would love a VR6, and agree they sound gorgeous, but it just seems a bit of a pointless excercise.

Either a lairy 2.0 16v on throttle bodies, which would certainly give the grunt noise, or a 1.8T, which I'm sure could be made to sound a bit special.

:oops: Thank-you, that was taken about two and a half years ago, it still looks the same, except it is a little lower.

Thats what I was thinking, but thats not what he's really asking. I suppose mine would be running a Turbo R32 lump with 4wd. It would also have air con, leather, some sort of Porsche 911 dashboard. Loads of sets of wheels ranging from std 15" ones to big BBS and Porsche ones. Trouble is I think it would ruin it's character, I like how it is at the moment, it is the result of a compromise between my want for a race car, and the requirement for it to be used every day, all put together within my own financial and practical abilities.

The roads are very greasy at the moment, doesn't matter if you accelerating, braking or cornering hard, if the road surface doesn't offer much grip you will not have much grip! I'm finding it very slippery at the moment, I have Pirellis on the front and Toyo's on the back.

Once you have organised some cables and an ammeter/multimeter and connected it all up it is quite an easy job. Do you have a manual for the 9A? I think the info I got was from a Haynes manual for the Passat with a 9A.

Yes, thats sounds right, the current fluctuates too. I managed to get mine between 0-5mA. I best buy an aeroplane then. :lol:

Yes thats correct, although I've not done it for about a year and a half so my memory of it is a bit vague now. You need to disconnect one of the connections on the airflow meter and connect an ammeter (not voltmeter) between the connector and where it was plugged in. Basically the current fluctuates, you need to check it fluctuates within a certain range, if not you adjust the mixture untill it does. I set mine up using this method and it went straight through it's emmision test on the mot with no problems, and it drives very smoothly too. Slightly off topic, does anyone know about adjusting the fuel pressure on the Ke-Motronic? There is a very small adjuster screw, which apparently controls fuel pressure, and supposedly you can do the equivalent of the wur mod on it, but although I no exactly where the screw is, I don't know anything about making accurate adjustments to it. I experimented with it a little but but did not notice any difference, so I returned it back to it's original position.

My pressure gauge is 0 - 10 bar. My sender is also 0 - 10 bar, so hopefully yours will be correct.

I think at 2000rpm at 80 deg C the minimum allowable pressure is 2 bar. Goes up to about 6 bar on a cold start , then at full temp between 1-5 bar depending on revs.

No worries mate.

Just found a photo of my oil cooler. You can see circled the two original switches and also the blanked hole. The sender is where the switch marked "S" is in the photo. I have moved the switch from it's original hole to the blanked one to the left of it. This allows more room to get the sender unit in. The switch at the back remains untouched.

The first thing I would do is clean the multi pin plugs on them. The torque of the bolt is very important too, make sure they are both at the correct torque. Are you sure your valve timing and ignition timing are correctly set? I bought one for my MK2 Golf and that cost around £50, so you really want to be sure they are faulty before replacing them.