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My condolences to your 2.0 8v that's not good at all 😠 Hopefully you'll be back in another Corrado soon 👍 No way and it happened in the same place 16 years previously 😱 flipping hell. If you do decide to get another Corrado and start a fresh, I'd definitely get as much as you can off your current one, as you know you'll ideally need a good stock pile of spares most importantly the obsolete parts. Especially the front lights and the leather interior if it had that, and door handles and wiper linkage if you fitted new ones in the past, plus anything else of use. From my experience of owning a 16v the fuel economy isn't really miles apart from the VR6, both will normally do mid to late 30s MPG on a long run. I think the most I ever got out of my 16v was towards 35 MPG going up to London or up north, around town I'd see 23 to 26 MPG, then on a 15 to 20 mile journey I can see 28 to 31 MPG. I've never seen 40 to 45 MPG from a KR or 9A 16v ever. Si 👍

No worries I thought you had the OEM 16v lump still in yours, I bet the 1.8 20v Turbo goes well then, I've heard/read good things about that conversion. I've had a quick look online there's definitely an abundance of good choice for the Walbro fuel pump, for in tank and exterior pumps. Their exterior high pressure pumps look very similar to the Bosch 044 pump I've got for my 16v. You should be fine with the Walbro in tank fuel pump looks like you can just purchase the pump, or complete with universal swirl pot cradle, which looks very similar to the VR6 set up, whether it's the same size to fit directly into VR6 tank not sure, but like you say you possibly might be able to keep/use the VR6 swirl pot cradle that sits in tank, and just replace pump with Walbro one ? VR6 OEM pump is roughly 3 to 4 bar and as you've said the same for the standard Audi 1.8 20v Turbo in yours. I can totally understand why you're wanting to do away with the 16v exterior pump swirl pot set up, they are a pain in the butt once it starts leaking, mine was a nightmare trying to remove the 3 retaining screw's, I got mine out by using a special extractor tool, plus like you say the metal cradle support bracket rusts, or the plastic swirl pot split's/crack's. Yeah definitely post up your progress as it'll help out others who are having a similar dilemma with obsolete parts. Si

Golf MK3 fuel tank Part number 1H0 201 075AR 55ltr tank with no restricted fuel neck 26mm From 1992 to 1997 Golf MK3 fuel tank 1H0 201 075AS 55ltr tank with narrow fuel neck 22mm for unleaded petrol From 1992 to 1997 I think the Golf MK3 fuel tank/s are 55ltr only and can come with two different sized fuel neck diameters of 26mm and 22mm. Whereas the Corrado is available in 55ltr and 70ltr tanks and I think only has fuel neck diameter of 22mm. Hope this helps Si

Hello there, yes you can fit Corrado VR6 70ltr fuel tank into Corrado's with 4 cyl engine's and vice versa, the early Corrado's had the 55ltr fuel tank, then in 1992 the tank volume was increased to 70ltr. The problem you're going to have is the fuel pressure, as the 16v as you already know has two fuel pumps, low pressure lift pump in tank roughly 3 bar of pressure, then high pressure fuel pump under car in swirl pot, which pumps at 5.2 to 5.6bar for KR 16v or 6.1 to 6.6 bar for 9A 16v, the 16v injection system is multipoint but is mechanical injection, final fuel delivery is via fuel distributor, which is controlled by fuel differential pressure governor/regulator, if the high pressure fuel pump doesn't deliver pressure as stated above, then the fuel injectors won't open as they need the correct specified pressure range. The VR6 injection system including the 2.0 16v ABF only have the one fuel pump in fuel tank, pump pressure is roughly between 3 and 4 bar, this system again is multipoint injection but has electrically operated injectors, that receive signals via ECU. I think you can possibly fit a MK3 Golf fuel tank into a MK2 Golf, but I've read on other forums the filler neck doesn't quite line up fully with fuel flap opening, but then others have said they fit fine, so regarding MK3 Golf tank into Corrado yes it may well be possible but how well it'll fit I'm not sure. But like I say you'll still need the high pressure fuel pump under car for your K-jet 16v injectors, unless you're able to fit high pressure pump in tank. MK3 Golf with VR6 (AAA) and 2.0 16v (ABF) I think use same fuel tank as the ABF fuel pump is very similar to VR6. Corrado fuel tank Part number 535 201 075H Length 910mm Width 630mm Height 620mm 55 litre tank with narrow fuel neck 22mm for unleaded petrol From 1988/89 to 1992 (weight 6 kg) Corrado fuel tank Part number 535 201 075AB / 535 201 075AE Length 950mm Width 630mm Height 615mm 70 litre tank with narrow fuel neck 22mm for unleaded petrol. From 1992/93 to 1995/96 (weight 9.5 kg) Hope this helps Si

Hi Dave, I've had a look at different things online mostly on car part sites including Ebay, below I've listed what I think is correct from what I've been able to find. Corrado VR6 ball joint (joint is interchangable to either side) Part number 1H0 407 365 Thread M12x1.5mm Cone stem diameter 16.5mm **************************** MK4 Golf 4motion VR6 ball joint (joints are handed so are not interchangable) Part number 1J0 407 365C (left) and Part number 1J0 407 366C (right) Thread M12x1.5mm Cone stem diameter 15mm They do appear to look similar but the MK4 Golf has a smaller cone stem diameter compared to Corrado. Hope this helps Si

I'm sure there's another thread on this regarding the handbrake cable lengths. From memory I think what I've listed below is correct ? Handbrake cable (up to VIN/Chassis 50-S-000361) Part number 1H0 609 721A 1988 to 1991/92 1605mm cable length Handbrake cable (after VIN/Chassis 50-S-000362) Part number 1H0 609 721E 1991/92 to 1995 1613mm cable length Hope this helps Si

Hello Fla, I've had a quick look on Classic Parts they don't list that boot separately for handbrake cable, only the caliper slider pin boot they list. I might have one or two spare if your interested, but will have to check my spares first though. Grease or WD40 used in small amounts will definitely help if your boot is split open. Si

I've just found this guide from this Forum could be of use. To be honest he just unbolts the top damper bolt, which most people do. Hope this helps Si

I suppose you possibly could use a sealant gun, but you'd have to fabricate it to work correctly for you, possibly have the metal plunger on the top of tensioner damper, then have the base of gun housing under the allow triangular bracket, then simply start pressing the lever handle on sealant gun, to start pulling up damper. But like I say the sealant gun would need some fabrication to fit / work correctly for you. Something like the picture below. Si

Hello there, the original VW tool was VW9131 it was used to compress/evacuate the air in damper/tensioner cylinder, by compressing the damper up to 5 times so it would be slack enough, according to the Corrado Bentley workshop manual. Picture of original VW9131 tool below. Si

Like Keyo has said I would double check to see how all the hole's line up with the ones in the scuttle trim, and if found to be surplus to requirements, I'd just put in that hole a thin small flat rubber bung, job done 👍 Si

Blimey that's not bad going if you've still got yours in good nick, mine started splitting hanging down slightly a year or so after I bought my car in early 2002, and my old school mate bought his 1990 G60 about 18 months before I got my 16v, and his lower door seals were similar to mine. I never really gave that area much interest it was only when I saw something sticking out when the door was shut, the only thing I can think of is if my door hinges are warn, and the door/s have dropped slightly causing the seal to drag more on the door step sill ? Si

Not 100% sure but think that seal in question possibly fit's behind grill, close to top of air con rad, might even help to seal under front edge of the top plastic fan guard. Plus as the 4 cyl & 6 cyl engine's have different sized / shaped top fan guards, hence the possible need to cut the seal down a bit to fit ? According to Classic Parts the standard uncut seal measurements are: Length 481mm / width 29mm / hight 9mm Yeah I know the bottom door seal you mean, I bought one when they were still available back in 2006, they normally only last 8 to 10 years if you're lucky, the plastic clips would break up or the seal would split / tear. They cost something like £65 to £70 back then per side. Si

No I've never seen that seal in the flesh, says it's for Corrado's with air con, possibly for LHD options only ? It's listed at Classic Parts on their website. Si

I've just seen it, top quality repair 👍 Si

Top man that is a quality repair nice one 👍 Si

Hello mate good to hear your parts arrived safe and sound, no worries 👍 Oh fair play on the tube good shout that should work 👍 Many thanks Si

I've had another good look through my spares just in case, but definitely don't have any spare of the metal spacer sleeves you need. I've found something similar on Ebay and they sell the spacer sleeves in different sizes, so you might be able to get some hopefully that will fit yours, I'll put a link up below for you to have a look at. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132812282714 Hope this helps Si

I've found something in the Bentley Manual under the heading (Engine Assembly B-10) section 10.10 This is all I can see to be honest. I think the great Mr RW1 is pretty much bang on the mark. He is very much missed. Below I've listed the torque setting range that I've bolted mine up in the past, I'd go somewhere in the middle of the two settings I've listed. Also I would use EP grease on the shoulder of bolt/s, and a bit of thread lock on the ends of thread on the bolts. Bolt 5 (circled in red) M12 long shoulder bolt 80Nm to 85Nm (59ft-Ib to 62ft-Ib) Bolt 6 (circled in blue) M8 long full threaded bolt 20Nm to 30Nm (15ft-Ib to 22ft-Ib) Bolt 7 (circled in yellow) M10 / M12 short bolt 55Nm to 65Nm (40.5ft-Ib to 47.9ft-Ib Hope this helps Si

Yeah I know tell me about it 😆 Si

They look mint fitted top notch like you say 👍 Must admit mine are still boxed up now 😆 Si

Hopefully that's on the cards as ChrisL has organised a list of interest with 60+ names so far, I believe he's been in contact with VW Classic Parts. Ready by Christmas 🎅 we can only wish Luckily I bought a set the last time they were reproduced blimey that's something like 7 or 8 years ago. Si

Erm states genuine VW so has been reproduced using the original tooling. Is that an F1 racing car flying by, no it's easypops super sonic Si

Also VW Classic Parts looks like they've reproduced the dash switch blanking rectangle plug, this normally fits into dash next to headlight switch, most of these blanking plugs have been drilled in the centre to fit the alarm LED. dash switch blanking rectangle plug - Part number 357 957 087 01C (01C = stain black) Cost £3.79 euros = £3.44 I've seen these on Ebay for £12 to £25 Si

Looks like VW Classic Parts have stock now of the front hub assembly for both sides for the 4 cylinder Corrado's, just been having a look on their website and came across them, for ages they only stocked / listed the VR6 front hub assembly's. Corrado (8v 2E / ADY) (16v KR / 9A) (G60 PG) 4 cylinder front hubs: Right side (O/S/F) Part number 357 407 255C Left side (N/S/F) Part number 357 407 256C Cost £116.00 euros = £105.12 per each. Si