flusted

Ive adjusted my throttle bypass to shut a tad earlier, can notice a difference. I want as much low down power as poss. Forget all this turbo talk aswell :ignore:

Yeah im using a 42mm jobby. I suppose with the g's type of boost control, you dont actually get boost until you floor it so round town pottering of boost will suffer with the shorty?

Thinking about going short runner on my 16vg60 but whats going to be the benifits over the 16v manifold? was guna make 1 like this

isnt 100 optimum running temps and fan kicks in 105?

They do a cleaner in bicycle shops called "muck off" that cleans em well

Charger paid for, its being posted to g-werks for porting before i get it so few more weeks

wont drive the alternator though?

surely the ecu will just make up a value if the bts is unplugged? ive driven round with near on all the stuff unplugged like co pot, lambda etc :cuckoo:

It was only a "get you going" map.

once warmed up it stayed at 7.4 even on hard acceleration, shoots back to 20.6 on coast down though. Guessing when i put the charger back on it should even out?

probe located right next to standard 1 on the cat bypass. Its in from the top to prevent moisture ect as per fitting instructions. Car wasnt really warmed up, will investigate more tomorrow. I believe the co pot effects fuelling slightly under load but only a small ammount

agreed about the parachute comment. remember im running N/A so even worse with charger?. The gauge im using plugs in on a digital output rather than anologue so no need to programme, i calibrated the sensor etc before i started Thinking back, my co pot is set to about 2000 ohms to try and get co down on idle, would that effect it that much on throttle?

only had a quick mess around but was showing 7.6 on idle and 22.3 on throttle which is really lean isnt it?

picked up a lc-1 with xd-16 gauge from the classifieds, fitted today and what a bit of kit, im well impressed. defo need a remap though

mine starts. i even drove with it unplugged by mistake, it pinked like fcuk

but he might have a prob with his digi 1 that would carry over onto new engine?

About £25 from vag. think you can measure resistance in ohms when cold and when hot, remember someone saying 2000ohms but unsure whether thats hot or cold

either lambda or temp sender

well it pulls it from coil -. you could always just add a wire to coil -

it isnt cheap and easy, i bodged most of mine for a quick fix and have the advantage of being able to do the stuff myself and have alot of parts to hand

use a kr inlet cam from a mk2 1.8 16v ( i have 1 forsale in the forsale section)

black/red coil wire?

thats why i went kr engine, also the g60 limiteds used the kr engine

I used a complete kr lump and used 2 head gaskets. Ul need decent chip, injectors custom fuel rail, custom or scirocco inlet, i used a 90amp vr6 alternator. Heres my itemized parts list, im slightly lucky that i work breaking vws KR Complete engine from my work £100 custom Inlet manifold £75 exchange Custom fuel rail £58 delivered from states 2x G60 head gaskets £60 from ebay VR6 Clutch £50 through work Windage tray sump gasket £30 delivered ebay Mk3 GTI downpipe from work £15 (only bought this as it was as new) VR6 Alternator £20 delivered from ebay assorted cambelt tensioners from work Free I think thats it so i spent out £408 plus a few odds and sods like fuel pipe etc so say £450. Option extras inc Passat TDI gearbox £250 inc picking it up since then, ive spent lime green 440cc injectors £120 from the states G-werks chip £80 Beetle breather £20

how dead is yours? might only be head gasket?