Tempest

Engine starts and then slowly picks up. I therefore doubt whether it's the ignition switch. Checked the Hallsensor yesterday, supply voltage is OK (10.13 V). With ignition on and handturning the crankshaft the Hallsensor voltage nicely changes between 10.33 V and 0.11 V, so the sensor is OK. Also checked the ignition trigger function (voltage between pin 1 and 15 on the coil) whilst starting the engine: Voltage OK, attached LED lights up. Checked ground from ECU, nice and clean, no resistance. Timing marks all OK (checked them again last night), timing set to exactly 6° BTDC, all OK. Rado runs sweet once running. That's about the only thing left, and as someone on a German forum suggested something similar, I'm starting to suspect BP's good old Ultima :roll: Tempest

Thanks for the suggestions already, folks :D Not yet, as I was still hoping to get the problem fixed myself :oops: But I was thinking of that, if all fails :D These were replaced approx. 8000 miles ago, and last time I checked them (3 weeks ago) they seemed OK. I hope the replacement with a DX-bolt has cured that on my engine :) Will have another look at the timing marks tonight. Ignition switch: How can I check that, as wriggling the key in the switch doesn't do anything. The funny thing remains: If the Rado hasn't been driven for 2 weeks or so, she starts up fine straight away. When she's started the next day (engine cold again), this stuttering occurs (which gets worse on subsequent days of driving/starting). When the engine is still warm (after having been to the pub, say :lol: ), she starts up fine as well. Very confusing. Tempest

Crossfire at least is still a Karmann, no seriously! Tempest

Thought we were Tory now; not that it matters, not allowed to vote (nationally) anyway. But rest assured, in Germany the government is constantly dreaming up new ways to annoy the motorist/citizen as well, to get more money in. Let's face it, thanks to the miracles of globalisation, Europe (including Britain) has pretty much had it, methinks ... Tempest

Hi folks, Need your help again :wink: . After I recently thought I'd cracked my US-G60's starting problems, it wasn't to be :x . My G60 Rado starts fine without a hitch if it's not been driven for say 2 weeks or so :) . But when I then start driving it more frequently again, say daily, then after an initial 2 to 3 seconds stuttering from the engine :mad: , the engine "catches" itself and all's fine again. After that the Rado drives normally, I can cane it without any problems, no juddering at all, all's fine 8) . OK, a few facts: Zoran-Chip in a CR-ECU, normal charger-pulley, airco (US-G60), I've recently rang through and cleaned all ground-points to the ECU ; new blue temp-sender approx. 3800 miles ago; new spark plugs 5300 miles ago (also recently cleaned them again); checked the spark lead resistance, all OK; ignition coil replaced 10000 miles ago; checked and set ignition timing to 6° BTDC, all timing marks OK; reset idle speed to 850 rpm; this was done 3 weeks ago; replaced fuel filter 10000 miles ago; replaced FPR (new VAG unit) 3000 miles ago; replaced the 3 fuel hoses in the engine bay 450 miles ago; tested the fuel pump delivery rate, approx. 1 Liter after 22 seconds with a measured pump voltage of 12 V; should be OK; compression test 90 miles ago: dry: 11, 11, 11, 11 bar; wet: 11.5, 10.8, 11.9, 11 bar; should be OK; recently cleaned the ISV again (even used a 2nd hand replacement unit, made no difference); checked the CO-value (512 Ohms); changed the startermotor (GSF new) 2800 miles ago; What else could be causing this problem? Knock sensor, ISV (yes, I'm running out of ideas, thinking about all sorts ... :roll: ) or what else ... ? Thanks for any help :) ! Tempest

Have a look in this thread on the German Rado forum, ignore all the waffle, including some by a bloke called Tempest (strange bloke :lol: ), and enjoy the piccies :D http://www.vwcorrado-forum.de/wbb2/thread.php?threadid=16565&sid= Tempest

Lucky sod ;-) Well done :-) Tempest

Erm, given that that looks like a Hungarian plate, don't generalise on general European modding habits (apart from the fact that Britain IS part of Europe, too, just to remind folks :lol:). Other Eastern-EU Veedubs (let's start digging around for those diabolically modded Roccos: ah yes, how's this one from the Czech Republic? ) have already caused some major discussions on German forums. Tempest

Or have your pride and joy on an agreed valuation. That's what rescued my Mk1 nearly 3 years ago, when some careless idiot Nissan driver rear-ended my Mk1 Rocco on the way back from a show at Donnington Park. I did hassle the insurance company almost day and night, both via telephone and by letter (which they at least have to acknowledge receipt of), and fax. I even had to call their asessor a w*nker, as he compared the repair of my custom-made Rieger rear bumper skirt to that of a standard Ford Mondeo rear bumper, thereby clearly demonstrating that he knew f*ck all about modded cars, even though the insurance company were fully aware that my Rocco was a heavily modded car on an agreed valuation. They ultimately bought me out with a suitable cheque within 3 weeks of me constantly hassling and harassing them. That's the only way you're gonna get them to do what you want. We pay them enough as it is, let them rip off all those peeps that don't care about their sheds on 4 wheels, not us car-enthusiasts. Moral preach over :lol: Tempest

Potentially have to do the same on my Rado. You can actually compress the spring holding the metal bracket inside the casing with a bolt and nut arrangement (have a look at how to wedge the bolt and nut into the spring, then using 2 spanners tighten them to compress the spring). That should allow you to swap the entire case and get that back onto your existing metal bracket and ancessories. Tempest

No reason for MOT failure as that hose is for the crankcase ventilation. As the fumes coming from the crankcase pick up little bits of oil, they ultimately are deposited in that hose that's developed a hole in your picture. Replace the hose and job done. That doesn't, however, solve your other problem ... Tempest

I have a mate who would have cried seeing a BMW 635 coupe being treated like that, as he's a big fan of those. So, yeah, lucky us, that Top Gear didn't chose a Rado for the 4-hour marathon thingy. Tempest

I assume you've raised the engine with a trolley jack whilst refitting the lower bolt? When I did my starter motor on my G60 last summer (had to do it 3 times, as the initial replacement unit from my local scrappie failed after less than 3 months, I then tried my self-reconditioned original one, which failed immediately, ultimately I had to bite the bullet and get a new one; hence the 3 time fitment :lol:). If you don't sufficiently raise the engine you will never get the holes between the starter motor and the engine mount bracket (which contains the mating thread) to line up, and if these aren't 100% lined up, you will never get that bolt in, it'll only bite then come out again. I've been there, swore my head off, once had the car fall off the trolley jack in anger (but that did finally align the blasted bolt and mating thread in engine mount bracket), so to summarise, it ain't easy, a fiddly annoying job for what could have been a 5 minute job. Tempest

Yeah, who says it's even going to be a Karmann-VW built coupe? Jeremy Clarkson has never been too keen on the Mk2 Rocco, has a more favourable opinion on the Mk1 (but prices for those are on the rise), so that would leave the Rado as for our wishes, but £1500 is not enough for a good one. Tempest

Car: US-G60 Exhaust when I bought it: Milltek from Cat. Nice subtle gurgle sound when idling, pops nicely but subtly when kicking the G60 a bit, but typically can only be heard with windows open, as inside the Rado it's fairly quiet. Only problem so far (system is nearly 3 years old): T-Bar on exhaust near midsection box caused pipe to break, resulting in blowing, reweld and reposition T-Bar hopefully has sorted that. Tempest

Ok, just some feedback for others with similar problems: I may have solved the problem of my starting problems / stuttering on cold start 1st ignition key turn. Upon having looked into my throttle body as well as the air pipes leading to the throttle body, I noticed oily deposits, which may still have been left overs from the oil being spat out by my G-Lader prior to it being overhauled by Darren at G-Werks back in November 2004. These oily deposits would have over time made their way into the combustion chamber, hence the soiled spark plugs, and soiled the ISV (hoses there also seemed to have oily deposits). A good clean of the ISV today initially gave some better results, but in the long term I will have to give the intercooler and associated piping a thorough clean. Tempest

Right, try and get one second hand. I got my VR6 cat (for my G60 incidentally, as the VR6 cat is made of metal rather than ceramic, and should last a lifetime) off a member of this forum through the for sale section. Had my local Powerflow exhaust centre do the welding (took them 2.5 hours, all just for 25 quid plus 100 quid for the cat), after which i refitted the Lambdaprobe myself properly. Tempest

The two at the driver side front strut tower: There are 2 hoses attached, one leading to the fuel rail, the other coming from the bottom connector on the FPR. Then there's a 3rd fuel hose at the right hand side of the engine block (when standing in front of your Rado, i.e. on the gearbox side), that comes from the fuel rail and leads to a pressure switch which in turn is attached to the throttle body. I got my braided hoses from Demon Tweeks according to my paper work, probably way to expensive compared to GSF, so try them first, I'd say ;-) Tempest

I just did a google-search for UK suppliers and found one, will have to check the paperwork at home (if I've still got it :roll: ). Funny, you know, as my eyes were drawn to those alloys as well :lol: Tempest

Had a garage do mine in the end. Success at first, as their air impact gun got the old bolt off in less than 5 seconds, but that's where things went pearshaped. The tension of the other 2 belts on their relevant pulleys apparently had dislodged the crankshaft pulley (all 3 pulleys plus vibration dampener are to all intents and purposes one unit), so that they couldn't get it back on straight (you could tell as a 22mm socket wouldn't go in any more). They then tried to undo the 4 Allen head bolts holding said pulley assembly together and rounded 2 off, then decided to take the whole assembly off incl. timing belt, reinserted the whole thing, went on straight this time (after having taken off the tension from the V-belt and polyribbed belt), tightened up the lot with the new DX bolt and washer, ... cost me 3 hours labour :angry:. They allegedly only charged me 1.5 hours. Still, they could have then actually changed the cambelt and tensioner while they were at it, I suppose. Tempest

Just spotted this on a German Corradoforum this morning: http://www.feuerwehr-verden.de/einsaetze/pkwbrandaufdernordertorkreuzung.html Ok, the report is in German, but that fire is REAL. Almost definitely caused by porous fuel lines inside the engine bay, where on the G60 engines the lines run frighteningly close to hot engine parts, and once split, fuel can happily seep onto the exhuast manifold, anfd then you've got a nice fire like the one shown on the pictures in that report. Hence replace them! I've just replace all 3 on my G60 with some nice braided ones, using new clips, as according to VWoA, there's also a saftey recall on the clips used on early G60 Corrados, as the early clips did not cope very well with the expansion and contraction of the rubber hose, thus on a cold morning leading to the risk of fuel getting past the clip, and yes, again dripping onto the manifold. Self-tighteing clips are now used. Tempest

Very nice :-) Must be, as that's where I picked up my US-G60 from, similar procedure: Flight up to Aberdeen, flight back to Cov. again, this time at a slightly lower altitude :-) Tempest

I did a fuel rate check yesterday, and all's fine (approx. 750 ml in 22 s, repeated several times), and yes, once running, the Rado runs fine. I did notice some oily deposits on 3 spark plugs this morning, so did a full ompression check (dry and wet), results are OK (dry: all 11 bar, wet: 11.5, 11, 11.9, 11). I also noticed that my idle switch on the throttle body no longer fully opens, just indicates 1.2 KOhms instead of open circuit. OK, that wouldn't be relevenat to my mild starting problems, but would this mean, that the ECU at part load thinks it's running in idle mode, or what is the cut-off value where the ECU interprets a value as idle or normal mode? Tempest

As Darren stated, also check the fuel lines (rubber hoses and clips inside the engine bay), as according to a recall document from VWoA, the originally used clips did not cope very well with the contraction/expansion of the rubber hose underneath the clip on temperature fluctuations, hence on a cold day, it could happen that the clip didn't exert sufficient pressure on the rubber hose, and fuel could seep past until the engine heat would cause the rubber to expand again. Fuel leaking on potentially hot areas like the exhaust manifold isn't a good thing, hence the recall issued by VWoA. They now use self-tightening clips, which I've also fitted after mine had smells of fuel entering the cabin (despite a completely intact carbon canister, no messing about with breathers or anything, all original). Tempest

Being Dutch, I obviously feel affected, but as the report on Pistonheads says, Spyker are building a new factory, that means new jobs, and we could do with more of those at the moment all over Europe (what with the former eastern EU countries, China and India all threatening to take our jobs at the moment). Tempest