Tempest

Seen those in the flesh on a Rado at the Roadstar 2005 event over in the Netherlands May just gone: Didn't like them, but had to be careful in telling the owner, as he was the organiser's body guard - know the organiser quite well :lol: Tempest

Another Rado gone :-( I hope you recover quickly, both emotionally and physically. Good luck hunting down another good Rado. Yup, agree: Long live the ELRA (automatic seatbelts)! Tempest

Sorry to hear John :-( Mike had already informed me of the tragic news at BVF, shame about a well-known Rado. Wish you good luck with the insurance claim. Tempest

Haven't noticed anything untoward here on the forum. Probably far too busy doing car-related things :lol: Tempest

Yes, you have to rev it to 3x >3000 rpm after reconnecting the BTS as well. Tempest

I dunno, what are you guys all doing with a Rado then, if it's got so many bad points? :lol: Bad points? The temptation to constantly want to drive it, but that's actually a good point :twisted: Someone mentioned the C-pillar. That's one of the best design features, it just does it for me, looking at it from the outside :D Reminds me soo much of a Mk1 Rocco :mrgreen: Tempest

Erm Jim, remember my spirited driving yesterday? That was with the BTS disconnected :lol: Now imagine what it'd be like with the sensor connected. No, only kidding, as soon as my Rado had started without a glitch with the BTS disconnected, I reconnected it again :-) Yup, followed the Bentley procedures: Warm up, disconnect BTS, check and set timing (6° BTDC), reconnect BTS, 3x >3000rpm. Zoran, the guy who's done my chip over in Germany didn't confirm that it shouldn't start with the BTC disconnected. The ECU then assumes an ambient temperature of 0°C during a cold start, during driving it assumes a value of 60°C, which means it's always running rich, as only from 80°C onwards will it stop enriching the mixture. Tempest

Hi folks, Quick question: As some of you by now know, I have some problems with starting my G60 Rado, see here: http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25715 Yesterday, I then decided to pull of the BTS and start. My Rado started immediately, no stumbling or anything, clean start! I tried it again this morning (when typically it would have stuttered again), clean start straight away! Now, before I go out and get yet another BTS (as the current one is little over a year old), here's the question: What does the ECU actually do with the BTS disconnected? I know it runs in open loop, but does that also mean that during a start-up it actually injects less fuel than with it connected, as it assumes some normal operating temperature (rather than cold start-up forcing it to inject more fuel)? Tempest

Depends on the chip in your ECU: Does it already have the maps for 98 octane fuel? Mine's even got a map for 100 octane fuel as sold on the continent :-) Tempest

Sounds very similar to my experience when I head my boltchanged (only because I couldn't get the original bolt out, no airdriven impact wrench to hand, let alone the air compressor). Took 'm 5 seconds to get the bolt out, but as I'd forgotten to tell them that there are 2 more pulleys on the crankshaft pulley, both under strain from their respective belts, the whole assembly had nudged somewhat, and hence the slightly larger-headed DX bolt (22 mm instead of 19 mm head) fitted, but didn't leave enough clearance for their socket to grip it. They then proceeded to try and take off the 2 outer pulleys, rounded off 2 of the 4 Allen bolts, took off the whol assembly inclusive timing belt instead and repositioned it again :x I then checked the timing myself at home (marks all ligned up, checked the timing was still OK at 6°BTDC), noticed a squeek at a certain engine rpm, which was due to a slightly overtightened timing belt tensioner, which was easily fixed as well. As to your question: They shouldn't have to retime your Rado, if they haven't touched the timing belt. Tempest

Thanks RW1 for your tip. Well, after having observed the spark plugs for some time now, I can confirm having noticed a pungent smell from cylinder #2, very little if any smell from the other cylinders. What's more is that I noticed oil traces around the spark plug thread. Yesterday, after I'd moved the Rado 4 times 3 meters each (to get access to the garage where I keep my Mk1 Rocco, took that out for a spin yesterday), I even noticed oil on the actual electrodes :-( Is this the sign of a head gasket failure? The compression values for each cylinder I posted further above would seem to indicate that the valve stem seals and the piston rings should still be OK, I would have thought. I haven't noticed oil traces in my coolant, nor any smells of exhaust fumes through the oil dipstick tube, nor noticed any white smudge on the oil filler cap. Given that my G-Lader was rebuilt back in November by Darran at G-Werks and having identified the reason why it needed one, i.e. one of the oil seals on the main shaft had gone, hence my Lader was pushing out oil. Could it just be a still contaminated intercooler (still got the original one)? Haven't cleaned it yet since the Lader rebuild :oops: Tempest

Stares? Best ones I get is still whenever I'm in my Rieger Mk1 Rocco. Today, on the M69, I was having some fun trying to show an arrogant Bentley GT driver that despite his perceived upper-class position in society his position on the motorway should be "get the f*ck" off the fast lane!", as that's where my Rocco was teaching him a lesson :lol: Well, he did leave the fast lane allowing me past :lol: Tempest

Ah, now that wouldn't have happened had you had the automatic seatbelts :lol: Then again, the things are so very addictive, that whenever I get into another car, I forget to put the belt on. The automatic setabeltys do attract stares from peeps, too. Recently on leaving my drive, a bunch of teenagers just went "Wow, a Corrado!" I got in after having closed the gate, closed the driver door, and they went "Wow, it's even got automatic seatbelts!" That made my day, especially as my Mum, who was visiting me over from germany at the time, witnessed it all :lol: Tempest

That's certainly a much less money-slurping option of Corrado-ownership :lol: Tempest

If my funds were unlimitred, I'd want one, but seeing the bits of money I might still have to throw at the real big version, I'll give the toy a miss :lol: Tempest

Just to add to the statistics: My sunroof also only tilts but doesn't slide. There was a good article in the Sprinter some time ago, on how to fix a broken sunroof. To someone like me who's never done it before, it probably would take a few evenings after work. Problem with that is that as my Rado is outside, I'm under pressure by the British weather, not a good idea to have a summer downpour start with the sunroof off :lol: Tempest

OK, I had to say this, didn't I? I just lurve my US-G60 during days like this, aircon as standard :-) Tempest

Jim, I do when cruising around Coventry in my US-G60, always thinking it could be you, and you might want to see a Rado in the flesh again :lol: Tempest

Yup, drove my US-G60 Rado a bit more recently, and particularly kids and teenagers would say "Nice car!" when waiting at traffic lights etc. :lol: That's when the windows go shut, the airco goes on, and I have privacy again :-) Then again, when I see one when walking, I do a 180 degrees headturn as well :lol: and instantaneously miss my own Rado :lol: Tempest

Yeah would also guess it's the rubber hoses inside the engine bay (more importantly the connection between the fuel line and the rubber hose, as attached to the right suspension tower. If you have not replaced those rubber hoses yet, now's a good time, also see my horrid post in General Chat about that G60 on fire ! Tempest

Sorry to hear your parcel opened up during posting, but yes, there was just a bolt (22 mm hex head) and washer in there. The old stretch bolt has a 19 mm 12-point head. I couldn't get mine undone, so had to go to a garage where they had some air-powered impact guns, bolt then came out in less than 5 seconds. But, as there are 3 sprockets attached to each other, the outer 2 under strain by their relevant belts, the whole assembly nudged a bit, due to which the guy at the garage couldn't get the new bolt in properly. They had to undo the whole thing including timing belt (after they'd rounded off two of the 4 Allen bolts holding the 3 pulleys and vibration damper together), reposition the whole thing onto the crankshaft then re-insert the new DX bolt ! Good luck, is all I can say, as mine wasn't the easy job I'd imagined it to be (after the garage had finished they'd also overtightened the timing belt tensioner! Oh well, at least that was easy to rectify :lol:). Tempest

Definitely mega-cool and soooo addictive :lol: Every time I get into someone else's car as the driver, i forget to buckle up :roll: Might be interested in some bits (automatic seatbelts, tailgate if totally rust-free around the lower window seal edges). Interior trim is US-specific as well, i.e. black half-leather seats with either red/grey or blue/grey pattern. Rear seat also does not have pocket for warning triangle. Tempest

Can only agree with the pro-diesel brigade here, as a mate of mine (Zoran over in Germany) has dropped a TDI into his Rado, and apart from it sounding odd (diesel sounds coming from a Rado :lol:), it pulls rather nicely, and he is always loyally rewarded whenever he has to go to the petrol station (rarely compared to a petrol car). He still has a US-spec G60 Rado to play with, of course :-) Tempest

Thanks Samg60 for those links :-). I had already checked the little pressure hose from the FPR to the intake manifold, the hose is fine (one of the 1st things I checked :lol:), fuel filter on my G60 was changed around 10000 miles ago (still nice and shiny even on the outside :lol:). I have noticed a resistance of 8 Ohms, however, between the negative battery pole and the ground point on the chassis, so will have to investigate that. The ECU, however, shows a nice 1 Ohm resistance between its ground and the battery negative pole (resistance of my multimeter cables; ECU has 2 ground connections anyway), but nevertheless. I also noticed a voltage drop of 0.06V between the battery positive pole and the supply line to the ECU (measured at the line powering the ISV). Needless to say, this drop isn't there with the ECU diconnected. Might just try another ECU ... Tempest

Yup, still have to arrive from the States (original VWoA part :-) ), price in the region of £99 or thereabouts (not cheap, but they are original VW-parts!). Tempest