Tempest

Yes, but I would disconnect the Lambdaprobe connector for the time being. That also should improve engine behaviour again. I had my Lambdasensor go belly up on me nearly 1.5 years ago, and I was driving around with the sensor disconnected for approx. 3 months till I got a new sensor and fitted it. No problems were encountered during that period. Tempest

Nichts zu danken! :-) Tempest

Nope! :-) Tempest

After I'd changed the FPR on my US-G60 Rado less than a year ago, my Rado recovered nicely from its starting problem, where it needed 2 to 3 turns of the ignition key before it would start and stay switsched on (1st and 2nd attempt would start but the engine would stutter and ultimately die again). Recently the engine started to stutter again for a few seconds on the first turn, then it catches itself and all is fine again. I've also changed the blue temp sensor less than 12 months ago, the previous owner had the fuel filter replaced summer 2003, I changed the fuel hoses inside of the engine bay (apart from the one leading to the pressure switch), spark plugs are about 14 months old (less than 5000 miles on them), coil and leads were all changed by the previous owner summer 2003, timing is spot on (just checked that 3 days ago). What could the problem be? Tempest

Only difference I spotted is the spanner to hold the tensioner pulley, on standard 8Vs (as in my 2 Roccos) this is simply an open-ended spanner, on my PG it's a pulley with 2 holes in it for a special key to be inserted into. Tempest

Have the same problem, I have an open safety recall on my US-Rado according to a mate of mine who works at a VW repair garage in the US, but do VW UK honour that? Noooo, they just say the recall was closed October 2002, b*stards, will have to do some shouting, i guess :roll: Tempest

Only a few, can't remember I how many degrees each tooth on the flywheel represents. Tempest

Hohum, I've done that before in my Roccos, just to test, of course :lol: But that's about as fast as they'll go comfortably (the Storm's speed indicators doesn't go any further, but it still felt as if it could go faster :-)), whereas the Rado still could have gone further, I just didn't dare, one day ... Spline key, yeah, was thinking of that one as well, but it's just that I want to know what I've actually paid £78 for :roll: Tempest

Just did the timing on mine today, and yes, I too, despite having used a timing light with adjustable advance setting couldn't find the timing mark (even though I painted a nice bright white :lol:). By turning the dizzy, i then found it, noticed a higher idle, which I corrected by closing the idle screw again, then took the Rado out for a good spin, and well chuffed with the result. Left the timing set to 6° BTDC, though. More aggressive timing settings will be counterbalanced by the ECU, which retards the timing depending on the knock sensor signal and, of course what fuel you use. Tempest

Steve: Only explanation for the 2500 rpm value is better reading as the timing light fires more often per second, resulting in a seemingly steadier/easier to read mark on the flywheel. I too noticed that the timing mark, with the blue sender disconnected, did not move from idle to 2500 rpm, I just felt it was easier to read at 2500 rpm. Well, just had a quick look at the 4 pulley bolts, 2 rounded off :mad:, so how on earth they allegedly managed to take the cambelt off and put it back on again is beyond me, unless the cut the bottom plastic cover, which I yet need to inspect. Great though, that I now have 2 rounded off bolts, even though I probably would have rounded them off myself as well, I suppose : :roll: Ah well, I'll quiz 'm on that one tomorrow, see what they have to say :lol: At least I had some fun on the A46 after work, hope I didn't get caught doing 120 mph (still plenty of oomph left) at one point when going underneath a bridge with 2 stationary unmarked cars on it :roll: My timing effort was successful, the "outsourced job" to a lesser degree, typical :roll: Tempest Tempest

Ouch, that hurts, as the bill came to £78 my fellow Rado-admirers !! :mad: Allegedly it took them 3 hours to do the job, but nice guys that they are only billed me for 1.5 hours! 3 hours to swap a crank shaft bolt :mad: Just checked the timing marks (turning the crankshaft with my trusty 22 mm socket that inserts completely into the pulley centre holes no problems) but they seem to have not messed those up, when they had the cambelt off. Then spent some time together with my Dad doing the ignition timing (one of those things I hate about the G60, as on my 8V Roccos I can do that all alone, but with the G60 you need some berk to keep the engine revving between 2000 and 2500 rpm, and no, my Dad's not a berk :lol:). Taken it to work again, and I could swear that it pulls a little better again. Will have to take it out for a serious spin after work :-) Still have to inspect the status of the 4 bolts on the pulleys, seem used ... Thanks for the kind offer Jim, but alas it was all foot work so far, i.e. me walking :lol: Will take you up one day, though. Tempest

Just had a call from them: They had to take the cambelt off!!!!! Said because the pulley had skewed slightly since the original bolt came out (because of the tension exerted by the damper on the polyribbed belt, forgot to mention that to 'm ;-) ), they then wanted to undo the 4 Allen bolts holding the outer 2 pulleys to the camshaft pulley in order to properly seat the pulleys again, but all 4 bolts rounded off :mad: That's just bl**dy typical on mine, as Darren from G-Werks will be able to confirm, having spent 2 hours undoing 2 bolts on the pulley side of my G-Lader when he wanted to take it out (normally a 20 minute job, taking the entire Lader out) for a rebuild back in November. Just hope the woodruff key on the crankshaft hasn't taken any damage in the process :roll: Bl**dy rust ! Well that's another case then of "I'm glad I failed and had it done by someone else!" Although it's starting to cheese me off, the bad shape my Rado really seems to be in as far as DIY jobs are concerned. At least I managed to change all the engine mounts (even the gearbox one, being a LHD Rado, no mean feat, as it's virtually inaccessible plus rust etc.) back in September :lol: Tempest (wondering what the bill will be :roll:, and having to check ignition and engine timing now ...)

Well, after a lot of trying to get the blasted crankshaft pulley 12-point stretchbolt out of my G60 Rado, I gave up and decided to let my local garage do the trick. They did thanks to the power of an airgun (wish I could afford some £500 expensive ridiculous high-torque gun like that, not to mention a well-proper air compressor and resevoir), but then did'nt have the right socket to get the DX-engine 6-sided non-stretch bolt back in :cry: As the non-stretch bolt has a 22mm head (cp. to the 19 mm head of the original bolt), their high-impact sockets didn't clear the inner hole of the pulleys :cry: Moral of the story: They reinserted the original bolt and made me book in the Rado for the job (as I refused to drive the Rado with said used bolt) :mad: I dropped off my own socket later on, as I'd just tried my socket last night, and it did clear the pulley hole. Angry? Yes, as I'm now at work waiting in anxiety what's going to happen to my baby :mad: , whilst I could have done the job entirely myself, had I had a proper airgun + compressor (minor detail ... :oops: ) Tempest

BTW, congrats on the Golf, Jim, forgot to say that in my 1st post in this thread :oops: You'll have to take me for a spin then, I suppose to show me what a TDI can do ;-) Tempest

Mate of mine in Germany had a TDI in his Rado, but got rear ended recently (some women crashed into his Rado with 70 km/h !), so that's that. I think the engine is still fine, but the guy's got a major whip-lash. His Rado did go, though, with that engine, and it was ever so economical. it just sounded funny, not used to the sounds of a diesel engine coming from a Rado :lol: Tempest

Just checked mine, and yes, they, too, showed a white silhouette when looking at them from a certain angle, BUT, rest assured, as stated above, I have had my Rado MOTed last summer with the InPros already in place, and they did NOT fail me on the rear fog. Furthermore, I haven't had any negative feedback from anyone regarding this issue from the very first group buy (back in 2003 when I also got mine), hence only the strictest of MOT testers may cause problems. Even over in Germany I have NEVER heard of failed TÜVs because of this. If that were the case, then InPro would have addressed this issue, or the German TÜV would not have issued the E-Mark. So, I wouldn't worry too much. Ohh, you are courageous !! I always insist on being the "vehicle presenter" at my MOT test station, i.e. the guy who operates all the switches and does everything as instructed by the tester, as I won't let anyone near to any of my babies, especially not my Mk1 (would get an instant heart attack, if that happened). last time round, I was even allowed onto the brake rollers, told me what to do, did that, and could test myself :lol: That was fun, as it took me 3 attempts to get the procedure right, each time the rollers threw me off, the tester laughing his head off :lol: Tempest

Try this: "Hallo (insert name here), haben Sie die von mir neulich bei Ihrer Ebay-Auktion ersteigerten Teile bereits verschickt, oder gab es irgendwelche Probleme bei der Geldüberweisung? Bitte um Rückantwort. Mit freundlichen Grüssen, " That's the formal method, if you wish to use the more friendly/less formal method: "Hallo (insert name here), hast Du die von mir neulich bei Deiner Ebay-Auktion ersteigerten Teile bereits verschickt, oder gab es irgendwelche Probleme bei der Geldüberweisung? Bitte um Rückantwort. Mit freundlichen Grüssen, " HTH, Tempest

Would need to check mine tonight, and will let you know. But can't remember ever having spotted that problem on mine, nor that I failed the MOT, as I already had mine on last year summer, when I passed the MOT with flying colours. Tempest

Didn't know you were there, hould have popped over to say hello to the Concourse Class 14 stand. I had my US-spec Rado in there. Tempest

I did notice build-up of green stuff on the outer edges on my InPros recently, probably due to excessive washing of my Rado :lol: Removed all that gunk with a little bit of vinegar (what the stuff is good for) then resealed the outer rim of the In.Prps with a bead of clear silicon. Tempest

OK, as my Dad has arrived from germany a few days ago with said bolt and washer, I had an attempt at changing the G60 crankshaft 12-point bolt, my Dad pushing the brakes like mad, and the crankshaft still spinning, actually driving the drive shaft on the right hand side (where the bolt is located, the drive shaft spinning inside of the CV joint, as the brake disk was held tight by my Dad pushung the brakes (wheel off on that side too for easier clearance. I then stuck a screw-driver into the flywheel, that stopped the crank from spinning, but didi I get that bolt out? Nope, not with any breaker bar that I lying around, as part of my pressure went into moving the engine (at least the mounts are OK :lol: So, short of me going to a garage where they have direct-drive air-powered ratchets, thereby applying the torque directly to the bolt rather than via breaker bars etc. what other ideas have you guys got? No, I don't have a compressor with air-ratchet ... I want to get the job done tomorrow, as it's still a bank holiday. Tempest

Erm, yes, JimsG60's at least awake this morning unlike me (probably still due to copious quantities of Badenser Tannenzäpfle :lol:), as yes, the mats are not symmetrical, i.e. the driver side and passenger side mats are slightly different. Bl**dy typical not to think of that myself, due to driving a LHD, I suppose :lol: None of the mats have a raised section in the pedal area though, and the driver side and passenger side mats can be swapped even on a RHD Rado. Don't know what the UK ones are like, but these are genuine VWoA (VW of America) items with an official VWoA part number printed on the cardboard bit of the packaging and even the mats themselves ! They are nice thickpile carpet material, "hard wearing nylon", as the US bumph calls it :lol: You even get fitting instructions ! :lol: Tempest

A piccie of the floormats (still shrink wrapped!), avaialable in 3 colours: Beige, grey and black. If there's interest in these mats, I could do another group buy, I suppose :lol: Price would be £62 plus postage. Can also get hold of the Corrado car-bra for £105 plus postage. Tempest

Would need to ask him re: price, but he got it from the States (just like the Corrado floormats). I'll have to take some piccies tonight, as they're already inside the Rado (where else? :lol:) Tempest

Forgot to mention that I managed to take back home a genuine VWoA set of black sturdy foot mats with the word "Corrado" embroidered into them in red :D Some more piccies of the meet below. More general piccies of the "Eislingen GTI Treffen" can be found here (just to get an impression of what's going on in the southern german VW scene, as this event marks the season's opening for the southern regions): http://www.vwteam.com/cgi-bin/pic/thumb ... =84&page=1 Tempest