Reggit

Thanks, that useful. Looks like I definitely need a new socket for the hub nut.

How do I remove the front hub? I'm trying to get the the ABS sensor to remove it, the thing is seized in and has a sheared allen bolt thread in the way at the back. Access via the front is restricted by the ABS rotor, so I need that out of the way. I've got the disc/caliper out of the way, but am stuck with the hub, i guess tat I need to undo the big nut in the centre, but that appears to need a special tool. Any suggestions?

Mine has exact same symptoms, but does it more often in damp conditions. I found that it appears to be a relay problem as if I pull relay 99 then replace it the car will start fine. Relay 99 is nothing to do with the engine, just the easiest to reach from the drivers seat. The consensus of opinion when I asked is that the fault is most likely the X-relief relay.

err no - I hadn't noticed that on the site, the kit arrived today and I was a bit peed off to notice it didn't come with the kit. Had to buy a bottle from local car shop :roll:

I would do, but you're about 150 miles away :)

Finally got fed up with the paintwork on my car, never been the best at cleaning the things, it gets washed twice a year whether it needs it or not! Everyone thinks it's black (actually moonlight blue). I've finally decided it's time to try and get it looking half reasonable. Bear in mind I've never cleaned cars properly before, unless a bucket of water and a sponge counts, I'm after some stuff to look after it properly, and probably advice on how to use it at a later date. Would buying a package of cleaning goodies something like this be suitable. If not can you please recommend something else. Cheers.

Is it using any water? Is your oil filler cap full of mayo? If so I'd suspect head gasket failure.

There's a similar thread kicking around a bit lower on the board where I've put my 'experiences' on a similar issue. Edit Just popped off to find the thread: It's here

I used to have this fault, but with a very random cure - so may just be unique to mine. The car would spin over but not fire as you described. I found that pulling relay 99 and replacing it would allow the car to start. It would then behave fine for weeks before acting up again. Relay 99 is for the wipers and not related to the engine, the car will happily run without it fitted. I figured that I may have had a loose connection on the rear of the fuse panel and by fiddling with the relay was allowing the panel to flex and contact to be made. I never found out for certain though as the fault just went away! It would play up only when the interior was humid or damp. Dunno if this is any help to you.

I've known a few VR's exhibit this trait. If you're running Synta silver oil (10W40 I think) change to a 20W40 semi-synthetic oil. The engine will still be perfectly happy and the slightly thicker oil should cut down on the smoking.

I get this occasional smell of petrol and can never find any damp patches or signs of a leak. When it happens it seems to be random, but always when moving which makes me think engine bay somewhere and it's getting sucked through the interior vents. Anyone got an idea where to look?

Thread revival time! Did you manage to reach the sensor from the front with the disc removed, or does the hub have to come off to drill/retap the allen bolt hole? Mine's just done the same on the drivers side.

I was just going to ask the same question! When I had a new screen fitted about 2 years ago, the fitter was moaning that their was rust under it, but he'd managed to stick the new screen to it - me not impressed. Within a few weeks, the windscreen trim rubber was falling off. I think that was an autoglass job as well. The screen now has a brand new crack in it (don't you love flying stones!), and I need to find a decent place to have it done on the insurance who can also repair the aperture before the new screen is put back in. If anyone knows anywhere reputable in the Lancashire area I'd be interested.

Is it a dissy or coilpack ignition?

When you turn the ignition on the fuel pump should run for a few seconds then stop, this pressurises the fuel system. You should be able to hear it, a quiet whine noise, it may help if you take the rear parcel shelf out.

One of my favorite bodges.... Take all plugs out, inject a little petrol (no more than a tablespoons worth - 10cc)into the cylinders and replace plugs & HT leads then try and start it. It 'should' run for a few seconds if all else bar the fuel system is working, but you'll have no control of the engine speed so be ready to kill the ignition if it tries to over-rev. You could try and have someone spray some easy start type stuff into the air intake whilst trying to start it to see if this will catch. They're both bodges but have worked for me on many engines in the past.

Is the fuel pump priming?

Smoke on start-up usually points to valve stem seals, (so top end as Dr mat said), on over run 'could' be rings but may not be a major issue. Mine used to smoke occasionally on overrun but I changed to a 15W grade oil from a 10W and it completely stopped. May be worth a try in youur case. I do think you've definately got a top end refurb coming up though.

Ask the DVLA from their website: Previous keeper details for your vehicle As the current registered keeper of a vehicle you can request information about the history of your vehicle and previous keepers. You must complete the relevant sections on the V888 form and send it with the fee of £5.00 to the address above.

If you've not guessed, I've got a noisy tappet - No it's not the chains before anyone suggests it. It's been noisy for a while not getting any worse, but also not getting any better. I've decided I may as well get round to doing something about it, in a month or so when the days are longer and it's hopefully a bit warmer. I guess there's no other way except removing the cams, how long a job is it for a fairly competent DIYer (VR6 motor)? I've no garage so the works got to be done outside. Anything else I should check whilst doing the job? I will check the chain pads for peace of mind whilst I'm there but it's not rattling. Is there an easy way of identifying the culprit or is it better to replace all 12? It's just had a service and fresh oil hasn't made a difference. Car's showing just shy of 98k for info.

The second one! Depends on how far you want to drive and with what electrical loads on - you could get away for a short while by charging the battery overnight and using it if not going too far, but when the battery gets too low, you'll be pushing the car home.

To be fair, I've not done Europe in the car, always preferred my bike. But advice is still the same. You deffo got to do the Alps, my favorite bit is from Val d'isere and head up (not North, just up), and you cross the border into Italy. Height marker at the top shows 3300 metres (or thereabouts), just over 10,000 feet. Bike engine ran like a pile of sh*t due to low oxygen in the atmosphere. Best views I've ever seen and you can have a snowball fight in the middle of summer in shorts and t-shirt. Switzerland, you only need the carnet if using the motorways. Don't get caught on them without one - very hefty fine. I love France, quite roads, cheap wine etc. Driving on the wrong side takes some getting used to if you've not done it before, especially on quiet roads. The worst bit of your trip is the very boring run to Dover.

It'd be worth checking the ECU relay, but something you said caught my eye; You've had the alarm disconnected, but is it still installed? If so I think this is still your problem. If a tea leaf was robbing a car and just disconnected the immobiliser you would hope that the device would be clever enough to prevent the car working. In other words does it have a normally open relay in the ECU circuit which closes to allow power through when the immobiliser is disarmed?

but before any of that get a compression test done on your engine to find out what's happening and what's gone wrong.

My service book is a little out of date these days because I don't keep it in the car and forget about it whenever it goes for a service. I do keep a huge folder of all receipts/old MOTs/old tax discs if I change anything I write the mileage on the receipt before I file it.