_Matt_

That sounds the stuff - good job.

There is a some good 3M tape @keyo knows about for those rear windows - the tape pulls the rubber sufficiently away from the paint so you get paint under the rubber rather than a hard line alongside it. The rubber expands and contracts with temperature changes and if paint not far enough under the rubber you'll see the paint line in the winter and eventually around that hard corner at the rear edge the paint will crack and flake off. It was for that reason I had my car painted (windows out jobby for me) as I hated seeing the paint line!

I noticed the volume of cars for sale too, some have been knocking about for a long time. Sign of the time (recession, cost of living) or typical pre summer sales or perhaps both. I don't recall seeing so many. Interesting to see the helios blue GTI engineering slowly tumble back down to what it was advertised at on the lot in Manchester (10k if i recall). It is with a different seller started at - 16k, 13k ( i enquired at that point and on all adverts it went back up to 16k), back to 13k, 12k today. It's a 7/8k car tops as does need recomissioning from sitting and even then it will smash corrado 16v values. Seller still appears to be a special one - see first line on advert about "mummys". https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294985231277?hash=item44ae7d6bad:g:4H4AAOSw5UtiLL5i

I bought those speakers as well as the Alpine versions for the doors and dash. I had the 6x4s and the door speakers installed for a long time and also left the factory tweeters installed. The sound was not great but a couple of weekends ago I installed the 4in versions in the dash and sound quality improved massively. I am using the connectors in Cressa's first post but did need to splice into the factory wires to install the dash speakers, Factory tweeters have an in and out + crossover which you discard.

Probs best to check your door membranes first (door card off job). The Sunroof seal is supposed to leak water into the drip tray which is then sent out via the sunroof drains. They may well be blocked if your door membranes are good and will be another place to check.

they were nothing special - just those Alpine E series direct fit jobbies. I had to cut the 4 ears where the screws go from the dash mount speakers but the others were a direct fit. I have bought some foam sound insulation i plan to cut and put behind each speaker to give it something to fire against to improve things a little further.

Great price. The UK loves a hot-hatch and that one has done particularly well considering it isn't the more desired big bumper version. I hope the Corrado follows suit being 5 or so years behind the mk2 in age but my gut feel is that it won't perform quite as well. In realitive terms there are still quite a lot of Corrado VRs knocking about compared to mk2 16vs. It will be interesting to see how the market plays out if numbers lessen, though I noted over the last 10 years Corrado numbers have not even halved yet Mk2 16v (inc mk3 16v as couldn't get the split) are only a 1/5 of what they were 10 years ago. Those were taxed and tested numbers I was looking at. Perhaps Corrados have been cossetted weekend drivers where as the mk3/mk2 16v were used as dailys and killed off to current numbers.

I recently installed 2 way speakers into the dash (4in) and the sound quality improved dramatically. Previously I had 2 ways in the door and the factory tweeter with crossover in the dash and it was pretty crap. I guess it is becuase the sound reflects off the screen towards your head but I was shocked at the level of improvement.

thanks for the update and no worries on any delays from me 🙂

That's a bit of blow but good the car is in somewhere it can be fixed properly once and for all.

Thanks Bauhaus, yes it looks ok but is a couple of years old now. I had to remove the drop link lower bolt to change the ball joint. When I had a drop link fail on my daily they rattled all the time on bumpy roads. The Corrado is pretty intermittent. That said I'd may as well throw a new one on as have a spare set here.

mega thanks on that - took copies if you need to take it down. Interesting so it's 18 i am referring to 70NM + 90 degrees but on the mk2 it is 130NM for all wishbone bolts. That is quite some difference. I'll check everything on my Corrado for torque with this info. It is going give me a headache on my mk2 16v (ABF block, KR fuelling) where I am installing a mk3 subframe with 4x100 arms - i guess i will take the 130NM route. Having fouling issues with bonnet and mk3 rear engine mount can be chopped down if needed to aid clearence.

Cheers I'll check the torques and play - i don't think that link has the torque for the wishbone bushes unless I am blind (could well be.. ).

Cheers I'll check the torques and play - i don't think that link has the torque for the wishbone bushes unless I am blind (could well be.. ).

Yes early corrado's and BBS/Sebrings look spot on. I'm running the 15in speedlines on mine and agree they don't look as good as an early car. I like the cars stance as well.

Yeah i've done that with pry bar and shake around - also put another thread up re torque for rear wishbone bush - never touched it on this car but am working on my mk3 and am not sure what the rating is. Also the bush is also fairly new and a Leon Cupra R/R32 solid rubber bush.

I'll check the mounts good shout but do have new mounts at the back and a VT at the front. Yeah on the 15s I could have got the weights moved but I wanted the wheels spaced out anyway. The noise does come from either side of the car when it happens - like when I reverse of my mums drive it is always on the pass side as I turn the wheel left to exit. When I pull out of right hand junction it happens on the drivers side :S

Hi, Just another thing I'm looking for info on - the torque spec of the rear wishbone/control arm bush that bolts up into the capitve nut in the chassis leg. My mk2 / 4x100 haynes manual states 130NM which is quite high but I've seen it referenced in a few places so am assuming that would be correct for a 4x100 Corrado. My haynes manual for the mk3 golf (for 4cyl cars only) states 70NM + 90 degrees which is odd as the 4x100 mk3s are the same set up as mk2s and that torque rating appears to match what 5x100 cars are publicised elsewhere. However this website appears to state 130NM for 4cyl mk3s so at odds with Haynes (inc i assume 16v) but 70NM for the VR6 but that doesn't make sense to me either since the 4cul 16v/8v GTI subframes are the same as the VR6 and also the same as what we have in Corrado VR6s https://www.torkspec.com/torkspecmm.aspx?KI=533 Put me out of my misery - would i be right to assume the Corrado VR6 5x100 would match the mk3 Golfs 70NM + 90 (and infact that rating is the 5x100 cars rather than just VR6 as noted on the trokspec website) for this bolt? Not sure why it is so different to the mk2 / 4x100 since it is very similar in design. I will want to remove my VR6 subframe at some point in the future and am also putting back together my mk3 16v which should have the same specs as the Corrado VR6 so want to make sure I am using the correct settings. Cheers Matt

Ahh i see, i'm not on the locating lugs assume so - Vince/team fitted them. They are 20mm spacers matching bolts for oem speedlines. The wheel weights were hitting the calipers intially so tthat and aesthetics was the reason to fit. I do have 16s as well that don't require the spacers - worth a try to swap them over as well. I do torque the bolts to 120nm.

another pic - this was taken when i got home and put the springs on

Yeah refurbished at Bigg Red but they were used before hand. I'll strip the off and reinstall as next game plan - those front springs were not installed for the first 80 miles and I can see the piston section could rotate without them. Maybe that has happened and they are out of alignment.

Is that on the 280s fen? I don't think the 288s have he spring clip like that. The calipers them selves are freshly refurbished by Bigg Redd, i will check the slide pins for good measure but hoping they've done their job right!

Cheers! The springy thing - ah yes it is now BUT I forgot to take it with me to the garage so had to drive back 80 or so miles without it. I went to Stealth as they did lots of work to car previously and wanted a once over as well, I know seems mad driving that far for this type of work. I'll grab some ceramic grease in the meantime as it sounds like its time to strip them off and refit. Mayve the pads shifted out of shape without the springs in place now you mention it.

Hi, I'm getting an occassional clonk that reverberates through the spring. I can't make it do it by swerving on the road, moving about on the drive or by physically moving components with a breaker bar, but it seems to happen after the brakes have been applied and let off i.e. reversing off my mums drive - clonk, pulling out of a junction after coming to a stop - clonk. Initally, and before I noticed it was after the applying the brakes, I thought it was probably ball joint related so changed them last weekend. I suspected them anyway because I bought them second hand (unused) in a parts buy and the steering at speed didn't feel as tight as it did prior to fitting those parts. That steering issue has been fixed with the replacement ball joints but the intermettient clonk has not. Prior to all of this I had a bit of work done on the corrado last month after that work the clonk appeared - new top mounts, new ball joints, new bearings and the fitment of Big Redd refurb'd 288 calipers. Most of the other components have less than 3,000 miles on them (outer cv joints, inner and outer track rods, all bushes, shocks and springs). There is no movement in the usual 3-9 and 6-12 rocking and no play with a breaker bar on the bushes or any play on the shock / spring on side to side movement. Probably should have just done the work myself since I am having to do it anyway but was trying to save time and wanted the car nice for summer, plus having faught removing the driveshaft from the hub on a mk3 5x100 car i did not want to be in the same place with the Corrado - they glue them in from factory! Anyway history over - I am now suspecting the calipers and pads not retracting properly causing the clonk on release. Anyone had this - is there something better than copper grease for the ears of the calipers assuming it that? Cheers Matt

Re - added myself now I've moved. This is me, if you see me wave or come and say hello. Always happy to chat 🙂